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Dreaded Electrics


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Right here we go Im at the stage to get this thing wired up but as you can see in pics gonna be a hard one, especially for me as Im just no good with stuff like this.

I did not take it apart otherwise I would have photographed and Labelled everything. 

So where do I start with this Birds Nest of wires,. Ive found the wire that goes to one of the washer bottle motors, the Horn and the wipers, but honestly just found these by pure luck.

There was a spare bulkhead loom came with it, so got that on the table and looking through it as it helps a bit. Ive put fuses in and think they are all working.

Been looking at Diagrams and just starting to get my head round them with wire colours ect.

Any help and advices really appreciated. Knowing where to Start First will be a great help.Thanks  

Ignition is all plugged in it starts Great.

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Edited by kevin50
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Just add more questions to this thread as you go, there are enough of us to get you first class answers, my 110 is sat outside so I can refer to that BUT I'm not going to dismantle the dash, we can workout most from the wiring diagrams 

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35 minutes ago, western said:

Just add more questions to this thread as you go, there are enough of us to get you first class answers, my 110 is sat outside so I can refer to that BUT I'm not going to dismantle the dash, we can workout most from the wiring diagrams 

I have plugged the indicator and wiper stalks in, Bit of a jigsaw to me,  The diagram I have in my book Seems to have the same colours as I have. i think the PO Kept this spare loom for bulkhead but the one that's already in seems to be working so far, don't want to cut anything out of the spare as its  really good and will come in for a later project, 

From what Ive been told its is 200tdi loom, I have it wired to Disco 300tdi it starts fine now.  

Third pic is left of Bulkhead I think they will eventually run down to lights. Chassis loom is plugged in at front but the rear is just a bundle of loose wires, would rather start at the front. 

Think I need to try and get Binnacle with dials built up first and wired in, I should have all the bits for it but Im sure there will be some other bits missing along the way, lets just hope they are not Important or Expensive bits.

One thing is this Small box that is on front of fuse box with 4 wires to it, in First pic  from the spare that I have.  second pic is whats in now but missing the box, the wires are different colours but going to use the box,  can you tell which  wires go to where,  ?IMG_20200419_172922.thumb.jpg.de185535b9664ff04e9f39f6bad47d6e.jpgIMG_20200419_173059.thumb.jpg.62435caa7c6bdbf90c2be5ea0ca8911e.jpg  

 

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That's the rear screen heater & rear wash wiper fuse box

White/Black goes from 10amp fuse to rear screen, 

Rear wash/wipe is a 5amp fuse, white wire in to fuse, plain green out to rear wiper motor switch

From the switch - - -

Light green /blue is for rear washer pump

Red/light green & brown/light green 

Plain green all go from the switch to rear of vehicle for the wiper motor 

 

Hope that helps 

 

 

 

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13 hours ago, western said:

That's the rear screen heater & rear wash wiper fuse box

White/Black goes from 10amp fuse to rear screen, 

Rear wash/wipe is a 5amp fuse, white wire in to fuse, plain green out to rear wiper motor switch

From the switch - - -

Light green /blue is for rear washer pump

Red/light green & brown/light green 

Plain green all go from the switch to rear of vehicle for the wiper motor 

 

Hope that helps 

 

 

 

thanks, Please forgive me if I don't understand your answers,

  so in second pic, does my white and green join each other in this small box with 5 amp in between them.  then the other 2 joined ??

IMG_20200419_172922 (2).jpg

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The RAVE manual has all the wire colours in nice pictures even if some of them won't exactly apply to your age of vehicle, most of the main stuff remained the same from Series onwards.

Also, most of the connectors are where they need to be and will only plug into certain things, especially the multi-plugs.

90_to86_diagram.jpg

def_early_4cyl_25_diesel.png

 

 

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The red outlined plug is the hazard switch wiring and connects directly to the back of the switch which should be located in the gap also in red

The blue outlined plug looks like the heated rear screen switch which also fits in that gap

There should be a third plug which has 3 wires going to it which is for the interior lights and fills the last switch hole in the same place

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I replaced the 2 glass fuses with separate blade type for my rear heated screen & rear wash/wipe, 

The white fuse holder is heated rear screen brown/white power in & white/black out to rear screen heater 

The black fuse holder is rear wash/wipe

White wire power in & green out to rear wash/wipe switch. 

IMG_20200420_111802.jpg

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12 hours ago, kevin50 said:

thanks, Please forgive me if I don't understand your answers,

  so in second pic, does my white and green join each other in this small box with 5 amp in between them.  then the other 2 joined ??

IMG_20200419_172922 (2).jpg

They are 2 seperate circuits. 

 

one one side which will be 12v power in you need the plain white to the 5amp fuse & the brown/white to the 10amp fuse, 

on the other side of the plain white & 5amp fuse connect the plain green this then goes off to the rearwash/wipe switch.

on other side of the brown/white & 10amp fuse connect the white/black this then goes off to the rear screen heater.

it doesn't matter which fuse goes in the top or bottom location of this little box just put the correct wires to the correct ends & fuses.

IMG_20200420_114139.jpg

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1 hour ago, western said:

They are 2 seperate circuits. 

 

one one side which will be 12v power in you need the plain white to the 5amp fuse & the brown/white to the 10amp fuse, 

on the other side of the plain white & 5amp fuse connect the plain green this then goes off to the rearwash/wipe switch.

on other side of the brown/white & 10amp fuse connect the white/black this then goes off to the rear screen heater.

it doesn't matter which fuse goes in the top or bottom location of this little box just put the correct wires to the correct ends & fuses.

IMG_20200420_114139.jpg

Spot on Mate I will get then plugged it, Thanks

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Had a bit potter on today again.  Found the wire colours in book for horn , washer bottle motor and clock, ran wires  from these live and earth and they all worked fine, Good I thought Im getting the hang of this.

Found wire colours for Indicators and tried the same with wires but nothing, thought Id check Relay so took fuse box off and it was missing, easy fix I thought so took one of spare loom  but still nothing.   

First Pic,  The box on the left, from top to bottom 1 to 6.   2345and 6 light up on test light, box on the right none of them light up. This is with Ignition on. Blue Relay on left nothing lights up in that.

Second Pic found this loose blue and white wire hanging in Indicator stalk, cant see where it plugs in.

Third Pic these 2 bare plugs are just hanging there , cant see any others that would match them up.

Don't think theres any power going to Indicator wires for some reason. as it does go to others.

Hope all that makes sense, as no good at explaining things. 🤔

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1st pic the translucent blue case relay is the indicator flasher unit. 

2nd & 3rd pics, that loose blue/white is for headlights, it should go on one of the brass pins on the left stalk, you should be able to see a pin with nothing on it. 

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2 minutes ago, western said:

1st pic the translucent blue case relay is the indicator flasher unit. 

2nd & 3rd pics, that loose blue/white is for headlights, it should go on one of the brass pins on the left stalk, you should be able to see a pin with nothing on it. 

Thanks, Should any of the connections in Relay light up on test ?  or is there a way to test if Relay is working ? Cant understand why there is no power going down wires.

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The relay won't light up, with ignition on it should operate the left or right indicators when the left stalk is move to left or right indication. also you will need the hazard light switch connected as the indicator circuits need that switch to be in place.

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19 minutes ago, western said:

with ref to the disconnected blue/white wire, have a look at the stalk connections, the blue/white goes to a pin near the column or nearest the actual stalk.

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Great Help Mate, Will have a look at stalk.  Not sure if I have the hazard switch, in fact not sure if I have the 3 switches that go in that space. will have a good hunt around for them later.

Thanks Again.

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1 hour ago, western said:

with ref to the disconnected blue/white wire, have a look at the stalk connections, the blue/white goes to a pin near the column or nearest the actual stalk.

 

That wire went just where you said Mate, mind you I had to take the Bloody steering wheel and stalk column to see the dam thing, anyway back on now.

Found these plugs in the box of bits I have left,  , just my luck the Hazard one is missing, dunno whet the third one is.  might come across it somewhere but will probably just order one don't think they will be that dear.

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Those 3 are from the left are 

rear screen heater switch, instrument illumination/interior light switch/rear fog light switch -- this is a 300tdi item, Your rear fog light switch should be on the steering column right hand side a short stalk similar to the main lighting switch.

looks like the right hand switch in 2nd picture is missing the rear part & internals. the later switches can be retro fitted.

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33 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

For info, there's cheap blade fuseboxes that fit where your horrible glass fuseboxes are, I did our ambulance a while ago:

http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=alfie:fusebox_upgrade

IMG_2994.JPG

Its a great idea Mate, but I just could not imagine me pulling those wires out 1 by 1 to swap them over, without breaking something,

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15 minutes ago, western said:

I still have the glass fuses in my '89 110, its not the original main loom as I had to change it after a bit of a meltdown about 10 years ago, just keep the clips clean & tight on the fuses & they'll be fine.

They do look sturdy enough.  seems the switches are not as cheap as I thought.  Might try a breakers near me.

 

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