Steve Howard Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Has anyone on here removed the front diff from a Defender or Disco without splitting the CV joint? Can I just remove the outer joint complete with inner half shaft to slip the diff out? I just don't want to have to buy loads of gaskets and refill the cv with oneshot grease. Is it possible? Or is there a circlip that forces me to split the CV in order to pull the half shafts out far enough for the diff to clear its exit from the housing? Many thanks fellow DIY home mechanics. I have all the gear to reset the diff and shim preload pressure/dial gauge etc, and am trying to cut costs at every corner here. The diff has thrown the drive pinion bearing so needs removing but the rest of the train is OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 You can remove the 7 bolts that hold the swivels to the casing l+r and pull the whole lot back abut 2 inch, so the diff can come out. Probable the easiest way. Needs a 12 sided ring spanner, can't remember the size. Daan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 As Daan says, you can. But it's a F heavy lump you'll be removing, and brilliantly unbalanced and a complete pig to handle. Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 Yes, I removed the wheels & unbolted the stub axle from casing & pulled the shafts out so diff would be able to be removed, IIRC I pulled them all the way out & stood them hub down in the parent wheel. 14mm ring spanner on my '89110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 22, 2020 Share Posted April 22, 2020 yes, worth investing in some of the very long straight ring/ratchet spanners and chock the brake pedal down to save your fingers jamming between caliper and disc mid wrestle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vogler Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 You will also have to undo the bracket that holds the brake line in place, which means undoing bolts of the top swivel bearing. These are open holes, so anything which falls into them ends up in the swivel grease/oil, clean well before you undo them. When you undo these bolts, the tension on the swivel bearings is undone which means that the hub will have a lot of play and that swivel grease will leak from the bottom of the ball. If you have a second pair of hands, ask them to pull the hub outward, so you keep the large swivel oil seal tightened to the ball. Best to have some one shot available since you might need to top up. IIRC correctly, the 12 point bolts are size 14. I invested in a folding ratchet spanner which saved a lot of time. The bolts look flanged, but it actually is a ring. I suggest having available some 12-point replacement bolts for the brake calipers and the stub axle (different size), a pair of stub axle oil seals (the ones which the drive shaft goes through) and one shot grease. While you're at it, install a magnetic drain plug in the diff housing, this is the same as in the LT230, or order extra strong ones at Nigel's. Good luck, Joris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I think you will find they are actually 9/16th but a 14 is close enough. It is certainly the quickest and easiest way of doing it. Only hassle is getting the halfshaft wiggled back into the diff when reassembling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 (edited) Just put a bottle jack under the swivel, remove the brake pipe bracket, then do the bolts back up! You'll also need to remove the drag links too, undo the 19mm nut and give the arm a sharp tap with a hammer for the track rod to seperate. They will swing round as they're unbalanced, so you may as well pull it completely out and sit in in the corresponding wheel for safe keeping! I bought an extra long 14mm ratchet spanner (ring on one end, ratchet on the other all 14mm) It was one of these, but I can't find it sold seperately https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-AK6319-Double-Ended-Ring-Ratchet-Fixed-Spanner-Set-7pce-Extra-Long-Metric/121811024284?epid=18017007848&hash=item1c5c80b99c:g:F60AAOSwVpRbRdDt Steve Edit: Found it! https://www.nctractorspares.co.uk/double-ring-ratchetfixed-spanner-extra-long-14mm-30801-p.asp Edited April 23, 2020 by steve200TDi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I have done it that way, however these days I would suggest that for the extra half an hour's work on each side it is better to strip the hub and stub axle off the swivel housing. The CV and shaft can then be pulled out to allow for the diff removal. It also gives you a chance to re-grease the wheel bearings and inspect the stub axle seal land, as well as replace the oil/grease in the swivel housing. Stick a bottle jack under the bottom swivel pin if removing the top pin bolts, this stops it dropping and damaging the seal. Slot the bracket for the brake pipe so that in future you can remove the caliper and hang it up out of the way without having to bleed the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 2 hours ago, L19MUD said: I think you will find they are actually 9/16th but a 14 is close enough. It is certainly the quickest and easiest way of doing it. Only hassle is getting the halfshaft wiggled back into the diff when reassembling But they're M10 bolts? . Doubt very much they'd then size it with an imperial head, even with the double hex. Might be because you've put the spanner on a slightly crusty bolt head? But yeah, wiggling the half shaft back in whilst holding the lump of swivel housing/stub/hub is a complete ballache. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 46 minutes ago, landroversforever said: But they're M10 bolts? . Doubt very much they'd then size it with an imperial head, even with the double hex. Might be because you've put the spanner on a slightly crusty bolt head? But yeah, wiggling the half shaft back in whilst holding the lump of swivel housing/stub/hub is a complete ballache. I could well be incorrectly remembering then!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 18 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: I have done it that way, however these days I would suggest that for the extra half an hour's work on each side... Hmmm that's a rather optimistic time prediction if you ask me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 Personally I'd just unbolt the whole thing from the axle tube, I've never had a problem getting the half shaft back in after. If you dismantle the lot you end up having a very messy job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Maverik said: Hmmm that's a rather optimistic time prediction if you ask me... Five bolts and the circlip for the drive flange, two hub nuts and then five stub axle bolts. When you take away the need to undo the swivel bolts and the steering arms, you might even save time. The only reason it might take longer is if everything is seized up horribly, but in that case it needs stripping and rebuilding anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Having done it the "quick" way just undoing the 7 bolts each side, if you haven't got any help nearby and are not in a hurry (eg. mid competition) I'd suggest taking it to pieces. It was a real pig to get mine back together due to the weight and awkward shape of everything. If I have to do it again I'll go the "slow" way just to avoid doing myself an injury trying to get the thing back together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 I made a crow foot ring spanner up when I did mine to get them torqued up properly. Buy one of Halfords finest spanners cut it in half and weld an M10 nut to the ring end. Make sure you check length required before cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.