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Wheels rattling


Simon_CSK
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I took the from wheels off my (black) Disco 2 with the intention of replacing the front axle because there was a rattle that I couldn't get to the bottom of. The NS was no issue however when I got the the OS while the wheel nuts were done up tightly, I always use a 2ft powerbar, the wheels were moving causing the rattle. What I foundwas the wheel nuts has enlarged the holes in the alloy and ground down the steel on the wheel nuts.

Never seen this before, has it happened to anyone else?

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7 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Yes, though not on a land rover.

It must have been put on loose and driven for a while for it to happen -and I am not saying it was you ;)

Bowie

I put the wheels on myself but never heard of felt anything in all the time I drove it until the very end when I moved it into the paddock. As I said the wheels were tightened with a 2ft powerbar.

7 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Are they the right nuts for the alloys? Not a car the came on steels originally and been swapped without changing the nuts?

They are the correct alloy wheel nuts. My 2 Disco's and my P38 all have Hurricane alloys with standard 27mm nuts

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7 minutes ago, Simon_CSK said:

put the wheels on myself but never heard of felt anything in all the time I drove it until the very end when I moved it into the paddock. As I said the wheels were tightened with a 2ft powerbar.

Yeah, as above, not insinuating it was you -the damage could have been done in the past, and then when you go to tighten them up, they won't go properly snug due to the wheel being worn out...

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2 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Yeah, as above, not insinuating it was you -the damage could have been done in the past, and then when you go to tighten them up, they won't go properly snug due to the wheel being worn out...

That is probable. I have a few spare alloys so it isn't really a big problem.

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Wheels wear out after a time and lots of use, for normal cars the loads are low enough its rarely a problem, in your case as others have said it is likely to be because at some point they have been fitted badly and driven on, the wheel is now scrap, I think I would scrap the nuts as well.

On HGV's with higher loads and higher mileages than normal cars it is fairly common for fitters to check the size of the bolt holes in the wheel each time a wheel is removed for any reason, the have "go / no go" gauges to do this (I made a batch for a local workshop a few years ago), a fail and the wheel is scrap. This was bought in after cases of wheel coming off vehicles in use with serious consequences.

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4 hours ago, Nonimouse said:

One of the reasons you never let anyone tighten your nuts (fnarr) with a rattle gun...

^ This, also a 2ft power-bar is not good either. Alloy deforms, you need the RIGHT torque which is often surprisingly LOW.

Decent tyre places use a torque wrench, if you see them tightening nuts with a windy gun walk away.

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7 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

^ This, also a 2ft power-bar is not good either. Alloy deforms, you need the RIGHT torque which is often surprisingly LOW.

Decent tyre places use a torque wrench, if you see them tightening nuts with a windy gun walk away.

Fair point and have a torque wrench just never thought to use it. Time for a new stratergy I think.

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51 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

^ This, also a 2ft power-bar is not good either. Alloy deforms, you need the RIGHT torque which is often surprisingly LOW.

Decent tyre places use a torque wrench, if you see them tightening nuts with a windy gun walk away.

It's 108 nm if I recall correctly, but I'm old and shot away

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