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Spring leaf removal


Bigj66
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Hoping for some advice from people with spring manufacturing knowledge.

My plan was to buy a new set of parabolic springs off Heystee, now parabolicsuspension.com, but at the moment Paul doesn’t have any in stock and will only be making a batch to order in future. The next one could be some months away. Furthermore, he tells me that the load level A rear 2 leaf springs that are intended for truck cab and soft top configurations and, where no significant load carrying or towing capability is required (as in my case), will no longer be made.

He did mention that as an alternative, the helper spring can be removed from the Load level B (medium duty) springs.

Now, as it happens I already have a set of parabolics that I have just removed but these come with the three leaf rears and are just too harsh and uncomfortable over potholes and bumps. A decent set of shocks would help here but I also think that it would benefit from reduced spring poundage too. I don’t know the brand of these springs but I’m guessing they’re from one of the UK manufacturers as I’ve seen similar ones advertised.

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My question is this, is the lower leaf in the photo the helper leaf and can anyone foresee any issues if I was to remove it and convert it to a two leaf spring?

One obvious thing is the clamp that is fixed to the bottom leaf and is large enough to accommodate the three leaves. If I was to replicate the clamp used in the two leaf spring on the fronts then can I drill the leaf and fit them to what would then become the lower leaf? If so, how are these clamps fitted as it looks like some sort or round head rivet from what I can see? Will they just knock out and then hammer back into a new hole or is there more to the design than that?

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That might work. Try it?

To unclamp the spring pack you need to heat the clamp bend cherry red and then unfold it. The clamp will break otherwise. Force one end up with a pry bar, then use a hammer to make the ear straight, using another hammer as an anvil.

Repeat.

I suspect the rivets are hot set rivets, with a counter sink.

So to move to the middle leaf you'd have to countersink again.

I wonder how much of the curve is due to the bottom leaf??

If you had nothing to lose, you could try cutting the bottom leaf just after the clamp, in normal use it would do nothing, as it wouldn't touch the other leaves.  Only in a heavy load situation would it act as an extra spring.

Be easier than uncurling the clamp.

Oh, and grease the contact area between the top and middle leafs.

 

 

 

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13 hours ago, Gazzar said:

If you had nothing to lose, you could try cutting the bottom leaf just after the clamp, in normal use it would do nothing, as it wouldn't touch the other leaves.  Only in a heavy load situation would it act as an extra spring.

Be easier than uncurling the clamp.

Oh, and grease the contact area between the top and middle leafs.

 

 

 

Yes, I agree that’s probably the better route to go down and will keep everything standard. If it doesn’t work or ride well then I’ll replace with Heystee ones when they are next available.

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