Chicken Drumstick Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) Want to touch up some bits on the chassis. Curious on what direct to metal paint people are using and finding good? I know there are loads of choices these days. Of course starting with the good ol' Hammerite. I've tried a few, had an horrendous experience with Buzzweld, so won't be using them again... Edited April 27, 2020 by Chicken Drumstick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Hammerite satin black smoothrite. Still works for me. Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 ZG90, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 My POR15 is holding up nicely on the chassis even when I’ve bumped and scraped stuff on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HampshireHog Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Rust oleum is good stuff the satin black gives a nice finish , not trying to tell granny how to blow eggs , quick blast back to solid and away you go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 I kind of gave up with paints - every 'i like this x' answer to this question was followed by 'x is rubbish' by someone else so there never seems to be any agreement. On my chassis, I steam clean and waxoyl straight onto the dried surface. Its held up rather well really, any rot is from the inside where you just cant get a waxoyl lance easily (on the 110 on the higher sections of the A frame cross member). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 I waxoyled my rear crossmember and then got it my trousers every time I went in the back of the 90 Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said: I waxoyled my rear crossmember and then got it my trousers every time I went in the back of the 90 Mo I get dirty every time I touch my land rover! You are right though - painting the surface that is seen from the back would be wise - even with crappy paint you will see when it needs re-doing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 I gave up with hammewrong years ago. I'm sure they changed the formula around mid nineties and its never been the same. POR15 is good, providing prep instructions are followed to the letter and you don't try putting it on pristine metal. If you do, it'll just peel off like PVA glue from fingers. The solvent and prep solutions come with dire health warnings though, and the thinners are more expensive than new brushes. I've yet to try Buzzweld. Interested what the bad experience was? Rustoleum, plasticoat and suchlike are OK for the odd garden ornament, but fall very short on anything serious. I'm not entirely sure direct to metal is a great idea, at least not in forms thats hobbyist friendly and won't kill you without an air fed respirator setup. Anything good, even etch primer, comes with some stern warnings, much as its gleefully handed out to hobbyists. That being said, I'm no fan of red oxide primer either. I'll be following with interest as I've got a chassis and bulkhead to do... I'm almost of the mind that it's worth investing in the proper air fed kit and going 2K epoxy stuff. That seems to be the magic bullet if there is one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted April 27, 2020 Author Share Posted April 27, 2020 Thanks all. I’ve ordered some MZ-90 in the end and will overcoat with ZG-90. Not used this before, so will give it a go. As for Buzzweld. No idea really on the product. But customer service was the issue. Big time. I ordered a good number of CIO and primer in aerosols. All of the cans failed to work. Either on first use or after only using say 5% of the tin. They appeared to be blocked on the outlet of the can, not the plastic nozzle. After much effort and threats they sent me more cans out and fobbed me off with the machine they used being at fault. New cans exactly the same. Must be talking sample of 20-25+ cans. With the best only allowing about 25% of can use before blocking. Terrible customer service continued and I wrote it off as a bad deal in the end. Won’t be going back to them. Dreadful company to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 I use Jotun Jotamastic 90, or Penguard HB as primer, then Hardtop Flexi as topcoat. Allegedly the Hardtop can go direct to metal. I have never tried it like that but it was no worse over primer after 8 years on a rear cross member (the chassis side). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Deproma. Comes from France, is semi heatproof and can paint straight over rust, and greasy surfaces. Does not come off and seems to last a very long time. Used to get it from a company called New Markets, but they seem to have gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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