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P38 Tailgate


Simon_CSK
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In my limited experience, it's the button itself; as the locking mechanism is in the tailgate rather than the door frame there is no easy electrical bypass, neither is there a manual release cord.
Your could try pushing the button harder than normal, or pushing it in quickly and forcefully with the heel of your hand.

If this works your immediate next step is to remove the trim from the lower tailgate, so that you can 'easily' access the wiring. Immediate means before you close the tailgate again.

If forceful manipulation of the button doesn't work you have to fold the rear seats down, crawl into the loadbay, and work out how to remove the tailgate trim while the tailgate is still closed.
I've never attempted this, so cannot give any further direct advice, though it is a job I have to do, so feedback will be welcome 🙂

If for any reason you think it's a lack of power to the tailgate you have to lift the carpet in the load bay to expose the wiring trailing over the floor (RH side IIRC).
Use the ETM to identify the wire colours, then jumper in an independent 12v supply.

Regards.

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22 minutes ago, David Sparkes said:

Use the ETM to identify the wire colours, then jumper in an independent 12v supply.

You mean the ones that are all white?

If the car is open you should be able to apply 12V to pins 11 and 10 in connector C0789 (see RAVE for details).

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1 hour ago, David Sparkes said:

...Use the ETM to identify the wire colours, then jumper in an independent 12v supply.

 

42 minutes ago, elbekko said:

You mean the ones that are all white?

Dunno, it was all too long ago to remember specific details, but I thought my 95 had wire colours, because I identified picking them up as a way to power a car in a scrapyard that had no battery. Not that I ever did it in practice.

Anyway, you have hit the essential, use the ETM on the RAVE discs. I presumed Simon has them as hardware copies or software downloads.

Regards.

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53 minutes ago, David Sparkes said:

I presumed Simon has them as hardware copies or software downloads.

Nope I'm dyslexic and trawling through books is an absolute nightmare so I prefer to ask you guys. :hysterical::hysterical:

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2 hours ago, David Sparkes said:

Your could try pushing the button harder than normal, or pushing it in quickly and forcefully with the heel of your hand.

 

That cure it.

The bottom tailgate wasn't on the latch which means the top tailgate cannot be opened 

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Just on that one there is a known problem with the tailgate release, caused by rusting of the spring behind the button, an entrepreneur on ebay has a wee u-tube vid and markets stainless repair kit. I am tempted, but I hesitate cos mine seems to work so well...... I am sure it'll bite me soon though!:D

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On 4/28/2020 at 2:44 PM, elbekko said:

You mean the ones that are all white?

If the car is open you should be able to apply 12V to pins 11 and 10 in connector C0789 (see RAVE for details).

On 4/28/2020 at 3:32 PM, David Sparkes said:

 

Dunno, it was all too long ago to remember specific details, but I thought my 95 had wire colours, because I identified picking them up as a way to power a car in a scrapyard that had no battery. Not that I ever did it in practice.

Anyway, you have hit the essential, use the ETM on the RAVE discs. I presumed Simon has them as hardware copies or software downloads.

Regards.

The wires are all white from C0789 (or C806 on <99 cars) on, as those are accessible from the outside (in the loom between the body and tailgate) and could pose a security risk. The other connector, coming from the right body harness, is color coded. 😉

 

 

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