tommobot Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I'm converting a 200tdi defender to a M52 BMW engine using an adapter plate a V8 bell housing.. It's all together and refitting the hydraulic system.. I've currently still got a 200tdi master pedal, whereas the slave is a 300tdi/V8 /td5 unit to suit the bell housing Come to bleed and getting very little feel.. I'm now it's best to replace both, but could the reason for no feel be the cross comparability of the items.. I'm thinking I should get a 300tdi master, though would this fit on the 200tdi pedal box.. I believe it would? Anyone able to confirm or any other input welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 Same master cylinder for the clutch on 200 & 300 Tdi, the slave cylinder is different for LT77 or R380 gearbox Have you got the slave cylinder fitted with the bleed screw upper most, if not it won't bleed all the trapped air out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 Yup.. bleed screw at the top.. On the pedal it's probably 60% dead, with the final part maybe acting properly.. I've contemplated adjusting the pedal height but it seems to be behaving incorrectly to start off with.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 adjust the pushrod & 2 nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 That’s normal for just bled status, in my experience it’s almost impossible to get all the air out first time. I usually get enough of a pedal that I can just about operate the clutch and then over the next day or two of driving it works it’s way back to normal. Some folk advocate wedging the pedal down overnight to resolve it, I’ve never tried that myself. Positioning the vehicle nose-up as much as possible can help with the bleeding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 1 hour ago, western said: Same master cylinder for the clutch on 200 & 300 Tdi, the slave cylinder is different for LT77 or R380 gearbox Have you got the slave cylinder fitted with the bleed screw upper most, if not it won't bleed all the trapped air out. The master was previously working with a lt77.. it's now affixed to a R380 but can't see why it would cause issue? I'm still a bit off driving/startup, so I'll try a pin the pedal down for a few days, see what happens.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) When changing master cylinder anyway I'd recommend this: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.landypedia.de%2Findex.php%2FReparaturanleitungen_Kupplungshydraulik (funny translation 🙂 ) I wrote the article and have the dorman since 20.000 km in my 200Tdi. Fixing the pedal down over night works perfect. The air is climbing up in the tubes and goes into the reservoir, when releasing the pedal. I allways needed it only once. Edited April 29, 2020 by Sigi_H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 If the pedal is stiff, try lubricating the pedal shaft pivots on sides of the pedal housing, I haven't had any problem bleeding the clutch on my 110 when doing it as the manual states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 Try bleeding with the front end of the car raised ( park up hill or put it on stands) so that the system’s air gets to the bleed nipple, trashed than being trapped at the other end of the slave cylinder behind the piston. It’s a common problem that is easy to sort. Double check that the bleed nipple and inlet pipe are in the right ports - it has been known! 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 did you reverse bleed with a pressure bleeder? If so, did you run about 500ml of fluid through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted April 29, 2020 Author Share Posted April 29, 2020 2 hours ago, Nonimouse said: did you reverse bleed with a pressure bleeder? If so, did you run about 500ml of fluid through? Nope, no pressure bleeder, just the traditional open nipple, pump pedal, release pedal, close nipple.. check and top up master etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 Reverse pressure bleeding makes this whole process rather easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Nonimouse said: Reverse pressure bleeding makes this whole process rather easy Is that with a ezzibleed?.. I have one in the shed to be honest, I could give it a try.. The clutch pedal has been pushed down all night so I'll see how its done soon Edited April 30, 2020 by tommobot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 A gunsons eazi bleed is for brakes and some hydraulic clutch systems https://www.google.com/search?q=reverse+pressure+clutch+bleeder&oq=reverse+pressure+clutch+bleeder&aqs=chrome..69i57j33.8749j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_I7yqXo2REPOChbIP3LaJyAY25 have a look at this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 (edited) I sometimes thought, the only problem bleeding the clutch system is, that you have to crawl under the car and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder while another person presses the pedal That means to me, having a brake hose attached to the slave cylinder instead of the bleeder, but with a bleeder on the end, makes it possible to have the bleeder beside the reservoir under the hood 🙂 I discarded that idea, when I found out, that it is so easy to block the pedal down for a night. Edited April 30, 2020 by Sigi_H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 To avoid having get under the vehicle to access the bleed screw, I did this, made for me by David of Llama4x4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 So I've had another look at this, I had s leak which was my cause of the issue.. I cannot for the life of me get the male thread from any of the existing 200tdi pipework to fit the slave cylinder.. Does anyone know if the thread pitch / size changed between a 200tdi and td5 / V8 / 300tdi slave cylinder.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 A bit more info, I have FTC5202. Which as above doesn't fit in with the existing threads/ system. A bit of reading suggests I may need FTC5072(for disco and 300tdi).. or FTC5071 (for series 3/3.5 V8 defender).. I'm running a V8 R380, and the era would suggest it would be a UNF? thread, although I don't think they had r380's so not sure if the throw of the piston would suit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommobot Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Alternatively, I could get NTC9055 which appears to be a Flexi hose with unf at one end and m12 at the other.. Not sure if I could screw the Flexi straight into the slave.. it wouldn't have the flared end, but does it need it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Investigating some of my old cylinders I found, that a swap of the pistons is possible. But there will be some rust between the cylinder and the piston. It is mostly at the end of the cylinder, so it doesn't harm the seal on the piston. Remove it carefully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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