galv chassis paint

[trickydicky]

hi iv just ordered a Richards chassis has anybody had any experiences with painting a galv chassis  ? last year I fitted new galvanised turrets and while I was spraying the inner arches I got black hammerite waxoil underseal on them and it  stuck like god knows what. is this an option or am I talking carp ? can anybody give me some advise on what they have used and their experiences .I need it painted as my last defender probably got stolen because the galvanised chassis was on show . 

[western]

On mine I did this  - - - 

Degreased chassis with hot soapy water, rinsed with clean water, hand dried. 

A few coats of Mordant T solution, rinse off to neutralise the acid & dry, 

A few coats of vehicle coach paint primer, 

A few top coats of vehicle chassis gloss black paint, bought from a local motor factor in 5 litre tins, that was 7 years ago & it's all still in place. 

 

[trickydicky]

cheers western iv just found this .the reviews look awesome and its £70 for 5 lt Buzzweld GIO Galv

[western]

Yes, there's been lots of LR use of that  since it came out, I didn't know about it when I did mine. 

[Litch]

Prepped & painted my Richards Chassis a few weeks ago.

De-grease, T-Wash, etch prime and Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (satin).

 

By the way, the black marks on the wall are NOT overspray but exhaust soot, a result of reversing down the drive and parking in the same spot for over 20-years. 😁

 

 

[landroversforever]

Have a search on the buzzweld stuff before you go that way I know a few not happy with it after a while. 
whilst my truck hasn’t been out of the workshop yet, I’ve yet to chip the POR15 on mine. Even dropping rough edges stuff onto a corner. 

[tweetyduck]

I'd not use Buzzweld as its not meant for chassis at all. Its just a guy re purposing other paint. To be honest any prep and paint works but you really want something with some elasticity and that the affor mentioned doe NOT have. So although chemicals are same same his paint is not evidenced by the vanishing (erased from history by him) long term test he was doing.

[tweetyduck]

Chemically any wash will do but i'd get a proper paint for vehicles.....TBF if the rebadged stuff he was punting (and i know too well who makes it) was an good someone like Audi would use it. 

[Snagger]

I used what I think you have - Hammerstein Underbody Shield.  It’s a half bitumen, half waxoil mixture, horrible to apply, but can’t chip or flake and is very wash and impact resistant.  It claims to creep over any scratches, but I think that unlikely.  But it’s cheap and effective over a good previous protective layer, especially galvanising.  It goes on very well directly, with no prep other than a wash with mild detergent, and while it is initially tacky, it does eventually dry tack-free.   It is a little prone to dirt staining, so I painted the front ends of the dumb irons and the cross member with expect primer and matt black Rustoleum, which is fairly tough and goes on extremely well.  The Underbody Shield can be scrapped off and remnants cleaned away with a cloth and solvent (spirits, fuel, thin oils) very easily should you need to.  I’m very content with the result and he level of protection over the galvanising.

[landroversforever]

10 hours ago, tweetyduck said:

I'd not use Buzzweld as its not meant for chassis at all. Its just a guy re purposing other paint. To be honest any prep and paint works but you really want something with some elasticity and that the affor mentioned doe NOT have. So although chemicals are same same his paint is not evidenced by the vanishing (erased from history by him) long term test he was doing.

I’d forgotten about that test!

[dailysleaze]

12 hours ago, tweetyduck said:

I'd not use Buzzweld as its not meant for chassis at all. Its just a guy re purposing other paint. To be honest any prep and paint works but you really want something with some elasticity and that the affor mentioned doe NOT have. So although chemicals are same same his paint is not evidenced by the vanishing (erased from history by him) long term test he was doing.

This one? https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/blog/blog-9.html

[tweetyduck]

Yes that one. To be honest, as i said, ANY paint meant for metal will work as well (or as badly depending on make) as this one. There are plenty of REAL chassis paint systems out there.

The pictures posted of a well prepared and painted chassis have no bearing on how well it works long term. You could paint it with Dulux and it would look great on day one. As i said if it were any good one of the car manufacturers would use it.....

 

[tweetyduck]

To address the long term test which i saw before about when his last update was....4 year gap is longer in duration than the actual test updates which was about a years worth....maybe it "failed"....we will never know.

Plus the test was what, three of his products and one or to other real metal paints and then products nobody would use. The Red Oxide looked pretty good to me...LOL

I still hold that any good metal paint with good prep will work. Some Auto paint will work with NO prep or minimal. His stuff is expensive for zero reason and requires some serious prep.

[trickydicky]

7 hours ago, Snagger said:

I used what I think you have - Hammerstein Underbody Shield.  It’s a half bitumen, half waxoil mixture, horrible to apply, but can’t chip or flake and is very wash and impact resistant.  It claims to creep over any scratches, but I think that unlikely.  But it’s cheap and effective over a good previous protective layer, especially galvanising.  It goes on very well directly, with no prep other than a wash with mild detergent, and while it is initially tacky, it does eventually dry tack-free.   It is a little prone to dirt staining, so I painted the front ends of the dumb irons and the cross member with expect primer and matt black Rustoleum, which is fairly tough and goes on extremely well.  The Underbody Shield can be scrapped off and remnants cleaned away with a cloth and solvent (spirits, fuel, thin oils) very easily should you need to.  I’m very content with the result and he level of protection over the galvanising.

 

20 hours ago, Litch said:

Prepped & painted my Richards Chassis a few weeks ago.

De-grease, T-Wash, etch prime and Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (satin).

 

By the way, the black marks on the wall are NOT overspray but exhaust soot, a result of reversing down the drive and parking in the same spot for over 20-years. 😁

 

 

looks fantastic how long did it take for your chassis to turn up? they told me 8 weeks

[trickydicky]

7 hours ago, Snagger said:

I used what I think you have - Hammerstein Underbody Shield.  It’s a half bitumen, half waxoil mixture, horrible to apply, but can’t chip or flake and is very wash and impact resistant.  It claims to creep over any scratches, but I think that unlikely.  But it’s cheap and effective over a good previous protective layer, especially galvanising.  It goes on very well directly, with no prep other than a wash with mild detergent, and while it is initially tacky, it does eventually dry tack-free.   It is a little prone to dirt staining, so I painted the front ends of the dumb irons and the cross member with expect primer and matt black Rustoleum, which is fairly tough and goes on extremely well.  The Underbody Shield can be scrapped off and remnants cleaned away with a cloth and solvent (spirits, fuel, thin oils) very easily should you need to.  I’m very content with the result and he level of protection over the galvanising.

I oversprayed the one side of my galvanised turret with the underseal 2 years ago and its not budged so it obviously sticks well

[tweetyduck]

I use DYNAX UB on mine as i'm too lazy to prep it. So its just sprayed or brushed on. 

I use DYNAX S50 inside the cavities.

[Litch]

3 hours ago, trickydicky said:

 

looks fantastic how long did it take for your chassis to turn up? they told me 8 weeks

I ordered in November for a mid-March delivery.

I didn't want it kicking around for too long but also I wanted to be getting on with the chassis prep & painting so I could SORN the LR on 1st April. They were as good as their word and it turned up on 16th March.

Getting on well with it, axles fitted today.

[Arjan]

Very nice !

[Snagger]

20 hours ago, tweetyduck said:

Yes that one. To be honest, as i said, ANY paint meant for metal will work as well (or as badly depending on make) as this one. There are plenty of REAL chassis paint systems out there.

The pictures posted of a well prepared and painted chassis have no bearing on how well it works long term. You could paint it with Dulux and it would look great on day one. As i said if it were any good one of the car manufacturers would use it.....

 

Some products do work better than others, red oxide being pretty reliable.  But given how thinly LR applied paint on Defenders, without primer or preparation of rough edges around bolt holes and edges that penetrate paint, most notably the highly visible and easily accessed rear cross member, it is clear that production cost was their only concern, not performance.

[Snagger]

I only just noticed the auto-incorrect change of Hammerite to Hammerstein. 🙄  Sorry about that - you seem to know what I meant. 🙂

[trickydicky]

ye gathered that's what you ment

[gruntus]

Hi All,

Just reviving this thread a little.

I fitted a galv chassis close on 10 years ago and wasn't aware of twash etc at the time and thought a coat of underseal would suffice. I know (shaking head) but I didn't "know" at the time until it was too late and had applied it........🤐

I have noticed a few bare patches now and would like to give the chassis another coat of something that will cover it and do me longer this time.

Any options out there that you would recommend as a good covering for the exposed galv and also go ontop of the underseal?

Thanks in advance.

G 🙂