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1994 110 stationwagon 2.5n/a to 3.9 EFI autobox


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Yes I think so Im gonna do some checking, finally found the identification plate its in the position for a later type 12j engines. It lived its life as a work horse for a college and I believe they had it serviced by the same local company for years. no reason to think it isn't yet but ill do some research 

 

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Seat box off , gearbox and transfer box out , transferred box dumped all its oil out over the wifes drive in protest. IMG_2817.thumb.jpg.8a516380e12eec93245258d289f90dc4.jpg

Front axle removed and ready for rebuild, had about a inch of play in the front differential so work needed there!

IMG_2818.thumb.jpg.70075f46dd7dddd93a5c82dbe3cd89c2.jpg

 

The chassis is solid until your you pass the rear axle (no surprise) after that its an mot failure, I will decide when I do the rear section if it needs a full rear 1/4 chassis or if it can be repaired. I know I will regret not getting a galvanised chassis when the chassis eventually goes again form the inside out. The plan is to take back to metal then red oxide it followed by Hammeright then wax oil it when its al back together. Hope fully ill get a good few years out of it. 

Day off today so the plan is to take the last few bits of and clean the chassis back as far as I can, then tonight when my assistant arrives offer up the engine and gearbox and see if I need to move the engine mounts to accommodate the V8 and auto box?  Any advice on the this is really welcome at this stage. 

 

 

 

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Red oxide os good.  Regular Hammerite is terrible, probably the worst thing for the job.  But their Underbody Shield works quite well over the red oxide if you’re not after something pretty or wipe clean.

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2 hours ago, Leclance said:

see if I need to move the engine mounts to accommodate the V8 and auto box?  Any advice on the this is really welcome at this stage.

Well going from diesel to V8 you'll need different mounts - I would swing the engine & gearbox & transfer box in, get the transfer & gearbox on the original mounts and that will show you where the engine needs to be.

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2 hours ago, Snagger said:

Red oxide os good.  Regular Hammerite is terrible, probably the worst thing for the job.  But their Underbody Shield works quite well over the red oxide if you’re not after something pretty or wipe clean.

The plan was hammerite red oxide , then hammerite then underbody Seal as below is underbody seal the Sam as shield ? I did the sanely with just the red oxide then the seal which looks ok tbf . Will that combination without the hammerite middle layer work ?CDA85368-0E3C-4B40-89C4-D612410BA0F4.jpeg.3b97eb54aaa00644931abfd5a4db9c8d.jpeg

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41 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Well going from diesel to V8 you'll need different mounts - I would swing the engine & gearbox & transfer box in, get the transfer & gearbox on the original mounts and that will show you where the engine needs to be.

Yes I bought these as I knew I needed new engine mounts . Annoying I was really careful to bag everything that cane off and now I’ve lost the driver side v8 engine mount . I had a clear two days run at this as well . Argh BFFF5E1B-155F-4638-9E76-7F9D1FB3667D.jpeg.768c8a0b1d015c9935e91e2ebba7b7c4.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Leclance said:

The plan was hammerite red oxide , then hammerite then underbody Seal as below is underbody seal the Sam as shield ? I did the sanely with just the red oxide then the seal which looks ok tbf . Will that combination without the hammerite middle layer work ?CDA85368-0E3C-4B40-89C4-D612410BA0F4.jpeg.3b97eb54aaa00644931abfd5a4db9c8d.jpeg

I used the brush on tin, same colouring and picture, just the word “Shield”.  It may be the difference between brush on and aerosol, or it could just be a change in name of the same product.  The stuff I used was a mixture of waxoil and bitumen, so if that has the same, then it’s pretty reasonable stuff.  I brushed it straight on to a new galvanised chassis after washing it and leaving it to dull for a month outdoors.  It took a few coats to get a nice even finish with the roller, but it has stayed in excellent condition for over 15 years.

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I see this quite often, people 'red oxiding' the chassis, and leaving it, or covering with underseal.

It is a primer, fundamentally it needs proper *paint* on top of it before you add anything like underseal/waxoyl.

Widely and cheaply available chassis black is fine for this.

 

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I have now replace the gearbox cross member, cut out the engine brackets and cleaned and painted. I did the second coat of red oxide and painted the chassis with a black chassis paint I have replaced the transfer/ gearbox brackets. 

Annoyingly I can't find the drivers side engine bracket, I can't believe I wouldn't have kept it that would have been madness , although strip down of the Discovery donor vehicle did involve a lot of alcohol. If anyone has one they don't want can you pm me and let me know how much you want for it. 

I was going to test mount the engine and tack on the engine mounts but without that bracket I'm stuck for now. I have turned my attention to the power steering which seems like a sensible next step. 

So I have both the discovery and defender units and associated pipework, both need the seals doing, so before I buy a repair kit is there any advice on which pump I should use. Obviously the pipe work from the discovery will be the best choice due to the pump position on the engine. 

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Use the Disco pump that is already on the engine, along with the Disco flow and return pipes. All a straightforward swap, as the chassis is essentially the same. You could have cut the chassis mounts off the Disco too.

I have got several sets of the engine brackets, but unfortunately I am miles away ATM and will not be going there until mid June

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Having recently stripped two land rovers for V8s it is very clear that you want to make sure the exhaust pipes don't get close enough to the chassis rails to heat them. The heat from the cats on a Disco 1 and RRC V8 completely rotted out the chassis rails. Consider exhaust heat wrap to keep the heat loss from the exhaust as minimal as possible?

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The same happened on my 109 - the intermediate box caused the inboard face of the chassis rail to rot through from the inside.

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sorry just read this , ill get a picture later for you. Mine is an odd engine it seems to be oen of teh later intermediary engines that were only used for a short time in 1994. 

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