ThreePointFive Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 On 10/8/2021 at 3:42 PM, FridgeFreezer said: If you haven't seen it, look out Ian's ( @Bull Bar Cowboy ) meticulous V8 rebuild thread in the technical archive, he did a beautiful and meticulous job on that. My laptop decided to die (I'm having a great month) so it's difficult to use the search function but I cannot bring up a thread on it... Can you easily get it? I did try! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 I think it's this one! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Shame about the photos on that one but the text serves as a checklist, at least. I've done something stupid. I was bolting up the big ends last night doing the manuals instruction of 20nm and then 80 degrees further. Got distracted by something ridiculous and tightened the same bolt, but realised about 20 degrees into the extra turn. So 20nm, 80 degrees and then 20. I don't want to slacken it off as they're stretch bolts, the rod can move on the crank freely but nor do I want yet another potential time bomb on the car. Is this likely to be an issue and I need to buy a new bolt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Stretch bolts can often be used more than once -check the manual for what it says about these in particular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Turners have said they're not true stretch bolts, I have a full set used once from the last rebuild so I'll just replace the offending bolt with one of those and do up to the correct torque. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 Turners appear to have been bloomin amazing throughout on this...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 I can't fault them, they've been consistently excellent in both the products and availablity of advice. Even the block was supplied spotlessly clean. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 That's what is great about good forums, good reviews and feed back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 17, 2021 Share Posted October 17, 2021 Just read this on Bad Obsession's Patreon page - if it can happen to them it can happen to the best of us! Quote We never thought it would be easy... However we didn't reckon on the mini fighting us at every turn lately. The show we took it to threw up some issues that have been complicated and difficult to fix. The car is significantly less finished than it was two months ago. The clutch actuation has been particularly problematic, we're now a couple of flat out weeks and five iterations into it. Think it's okay though, finally. There's no point in not doing the work now despite it putting the scheduled filming weeks behind. If the car is unusable, it's useless and we didn't want to pull the entire dash, HVAC and bulkhead apart once the interior had been installed to fix it. Along with the clutch issues, it selected all the gears at Weston Park, but a week later it didn't. The alternator drive exploded before the event. The rear brake discs were the wrong size, and we only found out after drilling them both to the four stud fixing. The matching new gauges don't actually match and you can imagine how that makes Nik feel... Grr. It's been a battle. Providing we haven't burnt it over the next few days, we hope to start filming the rest of episode 37 next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 17, 2021 Author Share Posted October 17, 2021 Well on putting my engine back together I found more issues, so I might just binge their videos until petrol is illegal and call it quits. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Oh no! What have you found? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 You can't leave us with a cliffhanger like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 18, 2021 Share Posted October 18, 2021 Indeed. Suspect he's closed his forum account, tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 19, 2021 Author Share Posted October 19, 2021 It wasn't intentionally dramatic, at the time of posting I didn't know exactly how bad it was so wanted to wait until I knew more. So you may recall I replaced some of the rear lifters to see if they were the cause of my top end noise (in desperation) before I could decide it was probably a slipped liner. At that time, the carefully run-in cam and lifters were all fine. I received my block back and started cleaning everything up to re-assemble. During cleaning, the 4th lobe from rear looked like this: I hadn't checked it as it had only run for about 15 minutes before the full stripdown. It just never occured to me to look for damage. The brand new lifter looked like this: That is a very pronounced groove dug into the middle. I knew this was trashed without question, the unknown part was if the cam could be polished or repaired in some way so I sent it to Turner's and they've confirmed the cam can't be salvaged. Their best guess is that the lifter got stuck and was unable to revolve as they are designed to, so it wore in the same place. Bear in mind how little time this took. If I had even thought to look for cam damage before sending off the block I would be a week ahead by now, but I didn't because of how little time I'd put on it. I now have a new cam on its way to me which is extremely annoying, but Turners have been great throughout this and I cannot speak highly enough of them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chazza Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Make sure you use new lifters with the new cam. Where is the bloke who posted that he didn't believe in damage to new cams? Cheers Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Glad to see you haven't given up. So now you have a block you can be confident in and new cam and lifters coming. Did Turners give any comment or advice on the lifter housing where it stuck? If they gave the block a bill of good health was it just grit or dirt that caused it? Possibly a bad lifter? Anyway onwards and upwards looking forward to hearing good news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 Quick question, I was never quite sure when I was fitting the timing gear what was the best setup. In this photo it looks like the marks line up, but in reality the big cog is always 1/2 a tooth left or right of the crank mark. It cannot line up exactly. I remember Mark talking about this in a 4x4 Is Born... I would assume a slight mechanical advance would be good? Which, unless I am very mistaken would be left of the crank mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Looks good to me like that, the difference may well just be slack in the chain -there's no adjustment, so will be good as it is, for sure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 As Bowie says, I'm pretty sure I've had the same experience fitting my timing gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 20, 2021 Author Share Posted October 20, 2021 I'll do that then, it looks more lined up in the photo than it actually is. Or I should say, was. That is from the previous build-up of the engine as I haven't been able to get time to go out and do anything on it and frankly I don't have much motivation this week. I had better get it done soon. Just to build a fake sense of drama, my MOT is booked for the 1st. If I don't get everything finished before then, I'm going to lose the shop!* *or I'm going to phone to rebook it the Friday before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 26, 2021 Author Share Posted October 26, 2021 Is there a particular torque setting for winding in the oil pickup pipe stud into the main bearing cap? I really don't want it coming loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chazza Posted October 26, 2021 Share Posted October 26, 2021 Use Loctite thread locker and it won't come loose. Not sure about the torque – what diameter is the fastener? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 27, 2021 Author Share Posted October 27, 2021 Thanks, that's what I've done. Might have just made yet another mistake in a long line of mistakes. I've used Tiger Seal to seal the sump but having thought about it, I don't think it's oil resistant. Much of a risk? I have about 4 hours of work before I put it in the car so it's now or never. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 I have used Dirko sealant as recommended by Turners (and @western) amongst others. Here's a link click but it's widely available and in smaller tubes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 Bought that stuff, seems good. What is definitely not good is I can't get oil pressure. I've turned it over but the light will not go out. Is my next option only to drop the sump or is there anything I can check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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