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£400 for a set of liners makes this a £2k engine all-in (though the parts are 3/4 of that and transferable to any engine). I can just about accept that before a complete new unit becomes a better choice.

Unfortunately a 4.6 crank looks unobtainable and Turners lists 4.6 conrods and pistons as separate PNs from the 4.0 ones, but no 4.6 little ends.

Is the difference between 4.0/4.6 in the stroke? I assumed they were bigger bores but if the piston rings are the same size... I could just Google this.

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Yes, 4.6 is longer stroke.

I forget exactly, but I think you can fit 4.0 pistons to 4.6 rods and end up with a higher compression ratio, and obviously more power from it. I assume that is what is being alluded to above.

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Rebuilding a 4.0 into a 4.6 seems like an expensive job to me when uppity P38's are less than 500 quid - I'd rather have a properly rebuilt 4.0 if you're starting from here, it's still going to be plenty fun in a 90 and there are those who claim the 4.0 is a sweeter lump, although that may just be because they haven't got a 4.6 :SVAgoaway:

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😲

How dare you! 😁

Those P38s are getting harder to find, sub-100,000 milers are getting a good price. Ebay 4.6 engines start at £600 and some of them look like they've had an incredibly hard time for the claimed 82,000 miles...

If it wasn't that it would be a £600 roll of the dice for the same problems as I've already got, I would be going that way by now. I may still have to once I get the outcome of the block test.

If, however, it passes then I will have an engine that is completely known to me and have addressed everything that could go bang within reasonable expectation of the mileage I will do with it.

With the cam I have in it, I am not sure what the gap will be between it and the 4.6 - I've read that the 4.0 is anywhere from 182 - 190bhp. I have the added benefit that I won't be losing too much power to an auto gearbox.

A bit off topic, but as I am rebuilding the engine and starting at '0' for so many of the components, I'm leaning towards having the TD5 speedo reset to zero. Bit geeky, but it'll be the closest thing to a new car I will ever own.

No, I am not going to sell it as such and yes I will have the full, actual mileage history.

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6 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

A bit off topic, but as I am rebuilding the engine and starting at '0' for so many of the components, I'm leaning towards having the TD5 speedo reset to zero

https://digidash.co.uk

Vaughan turns them around very quickly. You won’t get a true zero but he can get it to 10-20miles from zero..
 

In respect of capacity increase... the 4.0 on Megasquirt is a very driveable unit even on an auto. If I’m sensible. It’s all you need with brakes and steering designed in the 1970’s, stolen from the Range Rover and grafted to a 90.

Hmmmmmm V8 Developments do a 5.5L Rover V8. Now that would be a upgrade for economy.......

 

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Yeah that's the guy I'll call. 

I wish you hadn't mentioned porting the heads. I'm just thinking of all that efficiency I'm not taking advantage of. So much efficiency....

It might be yet another meaningless point to my project but I did set out to fit a 4.0 initially. It was based on the idea to take the best of a 50th Anniversary (engine and a few more civilized touches) and a Tomb Raider (manual gearbox, colour, off road equipment). Since then it's morphed into something else. I could add something about the 4.0 being type approved for the Defender but I don't fully understand it and don't want Fridge driving the ambulance through my front door.

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13 hours ago, keeley75 said:

Hmmmmmm V8 Developments do a 5.5L Rover V8. Now that would be a upgrade for economy.......

The thing with that is for that sort of money you can do an LS swap and have double the amount of economies and a totally un-stressed super-smooth modern lump.

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I'm sure everyone lost interest in this long ago, but some news from the rebuilders:

The block passed the pressure test.

There is a water mark in one of the cylinders, it's much better after a light hone and they don't believe it warrants a new liner.

The wear in the cylinders is very good, the worst one is 2 thou worn,

The crank just needed a polish, no grinding

The piston that was tight really was tight but is no longer tight. Tight.

The oil pump rotor gear thing is worn out and needs replacing.

They have cleaned out the block oil galleries.

They are fitting the cam bearings now.

 

It should all be ready next week, so the build can start the week after when I get some free time. With the overhaul manual and paying attention, I think I can get it back and running by three weekends' time.

 

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On 7/24/2020 at 11:03 AM, FridgeFreezer said:

Exhaust-wise, is it possible you've got the engine/box canted over or across slightly on the mounts? They've all got adjustment in (Land Rover tolerances) and it's easy to end up with everything sat over whichever side plopped in first while you were wrestling with the engine crane. We've used large thick spacer washers before now to bring stuff to a better level on standard mounts, there's no law against it ;)

I want to hit the ground running with this when I get the block back. Where would you apply the spacers, on top/under the rubber mounts themselves or to the engine brackets (if that makes sense). Or, is it just trial and error and a lot of craning until it looks right?

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The mounts have slots in them, so I suspect you will get enough clearance that way.

If you do need washers, get nice wide penny-type washers and stick them one side or the other, or both of the doughnut.

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I don't think I made use of the slots properly in the past which is a stupid mistake, I'll loosen all the mounts off inc. the gearbox and then fit the exhausts to see if I can get it positioned while still on the crane then bolt down. Thanks .

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  • 2 weeks later...

Engine is back now later than planned. Turned out the timing cover was scored as well as the pump gears worn, so I had to buy a whole new cover. Wallet is not happy. On the other hand, the new cover (which I suspect is Britpart but I'm in denial about this) came with an oil pump assembly included, so I can return the gear set I bought.

The cover that has turned up is different to the original. See old here:

199625279_oilcoverold.jpg.72fb213f6e2a916469fdf53548004515.jpg

New here:

1571994730_oilcovernew.jpg.412d5667d821733c7c77d1fc592b8c02.jpg

I can tell that's designed to work with this adaptor but can it be used without? I know from other threads that the proximity of the oil filter to the front axle is a concern on a standard 4.0, so does this adaptor solve that issue?

Just a ton of cleaning and a case more of brake cleaner on the way now, then it's reassembling everything.

Also - and this is OT - is there a clutch alignment tool for the LT85? All I can find it LT77/R380 ones.

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I thought clutch alignment tools are universal like these:

https://www.google.com/search?q=clutch+alignment+tool&oq=clutch+alignment+&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l6.5171j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Video here:

 

But When I've done it, I've just done it by eye. Ok, I may have had to do a bit more wiggling to get the gearbox mated to the engine, but it was definitely doable and saves buying another tool you wont use very often.

Steve

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Yep, I just do it by eye, and never had one not go in with a little wiggle.

I'm sure a tool may make it easier, but reckon it is one of those 'percieved added value' items that you don't really need.

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Interesting. I thought they were universal too until I searched and found LR model specific ones. I'll do it by eye, I don't plan to do it again so a tool is yet another expense.

 

Sorry to ask these stupid questions, just want to get this right and not constantly worry I fitted something wrong.

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13 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

 

 

Also - and this is OT - is there a clutch alignment tool for the LT85? All I can find it LT77/R380 ones.

May have a spare cut off shaft for LT85 gearbox clutch alignment will have a look tonight and let you know. On a side note I do have a blue point clutch alignment tool very similar to the blue one in this thread works fine on all sorts of motors regards Stephen

Edited by Stellaghost
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8 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

May have a spare cut off shaft for LT85 gearbox clutch alignment will have a look tonight and let you know. On a side note I do have a blue point clutch alignment tool very similar to the blue one in this thread works fine on all sorts of motors regards Stephen

Sorry ThreePointFive what I thought was a spare isn't regards Stephen

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