Electronic Distributor and Timing

[German Shepherd]

After taking almost 6 years to rebuild a 1973 series 3, petrol, 2.25, I have actually managed to fire her up. However, my questions is in relation to the timing.

The original distributor was very worn, with a fair bit of movement in the main shaft, so trying to get the points set was a work of art, so I decided to fit a new electronic dissy. From reading various threads on timing, for a manual dissy the suggested setting for static is 8deg btdc, however, the instructions for the new dissy recommend setting the static at TDC. I did set at TDC and she has fired up, albeit running rough, so before I start messing with the carb and as I can now use the strobe, I am looking for advice on the best timing setting. 

Any help and advice is welcome. Thanks

[Landrover17H]

What you're doing should go 'falling-off-a- log" simple.

With Std. fuel 6 degs would be more like it. The manual assumes low-grade fuels. Pumped UK fuel is not that. Any cheap strobe; decent set of plugs, cap, arm and leads and maybe a proper Bosch coil and you won't look back. Here we're assuming you've one of the many 45D 'knock-off's' sold on eBay. All are much of a muchness. Despite most with a generic advance curve, these come better than anything LR fitted. Cleaner running which stays that way, and cold-starts in another league. Wouldn't be randomly going near carburation until you have your ignition set at bedrock.  Low-tech single-electrode plugs is all these engines need. And we assume no vacuum leaks?

More money gets you a 123ignition with more control over advance curves, but for most, the cost is not really warranted. I run one because it gives two advance curves (I run gas and petrol - methane likes 23 degrees!), but this set-up is overkill unless it's a 'daily'. Then of course there's Megajolt / Flow injection etc, which one of our number is doing...

After the simple stuff, if it's still running below par, look to carbs. I'm not sure what it is with Series Land rovers? None were fitted with truly good long-lived carbs. Now 'long in the tooth',  the situation is all the worse. And you'll read endless nonsense comparing one to another... all using the same mindless circular-logic, but that's a whole thread in itself.

 

Edited June 4, 2020 by Landrover17H

[German Shepherd]

Thanks for the help and advice. I'm learning as I progress with the rebuild, so any advice is very welcome. 

[Landrover17H]

Sort ignition, and when you 'know' it's cock-on, look elsewhere.

Age says whether Solex or Zenith flavour, either will be worn and need a rebuild. Carb threads go on ad infinitum, and someone will be along to say different, but both were spec'ed in a pre oil-crisis age. 18mpg was acceptable, and that'll be about all you'll get. OK... 22 mpg on a good day.

Neither is tolerant to their current age; when in good order, they're not best, Land rover never truly had Series carbs 'right' and this'd be why those carb threads go on, and on... and on.

Once timing is right,  whichever flavour sits in there, you'll likely forced to at least bodge a rebuild, or if wallet permits, do it right - go with the considered wisdom - fit the HNJ SU kit. If the wallet is truly thick, don't mess... the ACR version (See pic).

However... dependent on which camp they sit -  and standby for the facial-hair pandemic - purists will finish with a Solex / Zenith rebuild. Akin to religious fervour, they'll not hear a word against.

You've been warned;)...

.

 

 

 

Edited June 5, 2020 by Landrover17H

[German Shepherd]

I'm not sure if this is good or bad but I have a Webber 34ich carb fitted. I have stripped, cleaned and refurbished with new diaphragms, gaskets and mixture screw etc. I am thinking that's part of my problem, the mixture screw not being set correctly, combined with the timing being out, so engine running rough. 

I have now set the mixture screw at 2 turns out, static timing at 6 deg btdc, so we will see where we are at when I fire her up. Hopefully tomorrow, time allowing.

Once again thanks for your advice.

[Landrover17H]

Getting timing crack-on should be fairly quick and easy. 

Not completely qualified to speak of the Weber 34ICH but if memory serves right,  was an after-market attempt to rectify things when an owner had already given up on his Solex/Zenith. Inheriting yet another set of issues, their reputation is not good. Then again, speak of a Weber 32-34 DMTL, and whilst not without vice, you'll struggle to beat one. Even with an SU. However it took Land rover until the 80s to get carbs right; the Weber 32-34 DMTL went into 2.5  Petrol coilers. Gave a small hike in economy over the 2.25

It might be worth having a set-to with it,  pretty sure the google poodle will confirm, but any Weber 34ICH is not a lot better than stock. Sorry...

 

 

Edited June 6, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Landrover17H]

Flicking thru' eBay saw this and thought of you, looks like a homebrew:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353092896552?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Edited June 6, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Bowie69]

They make a huuuuge difference to a 2.25, just put a decent airbox on it, easy enough to pipe it up to a standard LR offering.

[Landrover17H]

Agreed, with enough faffing about, you'll get a Zenith/Solex/ICH to run well enough. However, if time, trouble and cash aren't the obstacle, an SU is the way to go. Land rover resolutely failed to get carburation as bullet-proof as the rest of the thing. It's why OP's Weber ICH effort even exists. I went a bit over-the-top, I've a BLOS in there too... an old piccy, (not a fan of K&N) it's changed again since. You'll pull away from tick-over with an SU or Weber 32-34 DMTL. Slight power and economy hikes too. Not to knock the Weber 32-34 DMTL but the SU is the simpler way to get the same result.

However it's easy for me to spout all this, best I point out my hypocrisy... I landed all you see in the midst of the TDi boom, you could get all you see for pennies. Not so today.

Edited June 7, 2020 by Landrover17H