darthdicky Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 I've taken mine off for a bit of a clean up, oil change and check over. Is there anything that should be replaced as a matter of course whilst it's apart? Should the mainshaft/brake assembly have some play in it up and down, or is the bearing it runs on worn on mine? I've seen mention of cleaning out the motor brushes, anyone got any instructions on how best to do this? What's best to clean the brake components up with? It all works fine, I just want to make sure any seals are sealing oil in and water out and that it's not going to let me down when I need it next. It's got a Bow2 motor, the Gigglepin mainshaft and brake pads and Delta-tek freespool drum already so I don't think it needs any further upgrades. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted June 3, 2020 Share Posted June 3, 2020 Check the freewheel selector is secure. When worn they can have a habit of disengaging. The one my mate had on his challenge truck had an R-clip through the shaft to prevent unintended movement. Also check the circlip holding the brake assembly together in in good nick, else you might find yourself searching for little balls in the mud. There is a conversion kit to ditch the circlip and add replace it with a big washer and a screw into the end of the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Cheers, I think both of those have already been done on mine - it certainly has an R clip on the freespool and I think the Gigglepin shaft gets rid of the circlip and uses a bolt instead. Having been through a few "how to" rebuild guides online they're quite a simple design, but any hints and tips would be useful as I don't have a perfect one to compare to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 4, 2020 Share Posted June 4, 2020 For the motor, you can just blow it and the casing out with compressed air, and if you feel there’s sufficient build up to necessitate a wipe down, the best thing to use is electrical contact cleaner as it will leave no residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Looking to start refurbing mine soon just collecting some of the bits at the moment regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 Let me know how you get on, mine is still sat on the bench awaiting some enthusiasm for disassembly... Thanks Steve, hoping it’s not full of dust but will give it a blow through and a squirt or two with some contact cleaner if it’s messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 9 hours ago, darthdicky said: Let me know how you get on Will do had a half hearted attempt to remove brake assembly with winch on the car but no joy it's solid may remove winch today and start progressing after the weekend regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 Started pulling it apart today and have a few more questions: Is the motor only held on by the 2 end bolts all the way through? I've removed those and the freespool gear from the side and it won't budge. Don't want to start whacking it if there's something else holding it on. Looks like it's just RTV round the joint, but worth checking. The bolt came out of the brake fine, but the brake itself is not coming off. Have had a look inside and it doesn't look like there's anything else holding it on, but again worth checking before I start hitting it any harder. Have sprayed the whole thing with plusgas so hopefully will find it has sprung apart tomorrow. The brake was working fine when I last used it so it shouldn't be too seized up. The mainshaft has some play in it side to side and up and down which according to Gigglepin may be the bronze bush that needs replacing. I need to get some larger circlip pliers before I can get that out and inspect it. On the Delta-tek drum it looks like there's only a seal, no bushes to replace at all? The oil came out rather yellow so I think it's got a bit of water in it at some point, but the gears all look good so it should just need a clean up, few new seals and stick it back together again. But that assumes I can get it apart first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 The motor is only held in by two long bolts. However there are tinny dowels it sits on or at least one alignment pin as well as RTV as you say. The brake assembly (make sure you've clamped to two halfs with the clicky middle bit together as all the ball bearings will fall out!) should just slide off, it maybe a bit tight. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) So started dismantling mine in earnest this morning and I can tell you it was a pain tried removing brake hub with hydraulic puller and heat not a bit of joy out with the heavy gear namely a 15 ton Jack That's done the trick very rusty balls out and brake material solidly fixed to brake discs All parts then removed notice spring has corroded badly and in several bits oil also in motor but that's because I had it on its side on the bench also commutator needing a clean up lots to do and I haven't looked inside yet regards Stephen Edited July 6, 2020 by Stellaghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Good news internally all looks like it just need a good clean up a few pit marks here and there but nothing serious regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 6, 2020 Author Share Posted July 6, 2020 That's good progress - you've clearly got the kit to deal with it! Have ordered a puller to give mine a go but it doesn't look anywhere near as beefy as yours. Hoping it just needs a little persuasion as the brake was working fine about 6 months ago. I can always put it back on the vehicle at some point and lower it out to free it off if needs be. Thanks for the motor info Steve - was considering trying to twist it to break the seal but I'll avoid that if there's dowels in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, darthdicky said: That's good progress - you've clearly got the kit to deal with it! Have ordered a puller to give mine a go but it doesn't look anywhere near as beefy as yours. Hoping it just needs a little persuasion as the brake was working fine about 6 months ago. I can always put it back on the vehicle at some point and lower it out to free it off if needs be. Thanks for the motor info Steve - was considering trying to twist it to break the seal but I'll avoid that if there's dowels in there. As long as your puller can apply some pressure then use a bit of heat and it should come free my shaft was well rusted especially where I had no access to clean up with some emry paper so heat is the key if its tight I know I will be putting mine back together with a bit of copper slip to hopefully make things easier in the future the other thing I did after the initial pop off the shaft was to put a couple of chisels, fox wedges would be better if you have them, down the back of the brake hub between the body and the hub and put a bit of pressure at the back with with the taper and then use a brass drift to hit the shaft in the way thats what I did to finish off good luck regards Stephen Edited July 6, 2020 by Stellaghost addition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 16 hours ago, darthdicky said: That's good progress - you've clearly got the kit to deal with it! Have ordered a puller to give mine a go but it doesn't look anywhere near as beefy as yours. Hoping it just needs a little persuasion as the brake was working fine about 6 months ago. I can always put it back on the vehicle at some point and lower it out to free it off if needs be. Thanks for the motor info Steve - was considering trying to twist it to break the seal but I'll avoid that if there's dowels in there. Richard, get a fibre mallet and give it a good hard whack. It's just bi-metalic corrosion and rtv sealant. Gigglebiz do a proper gasket. hold it in place with Heldite jointing compound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 On cleaning my brake assembly up was just wondering if there was any type of coating available to inhibit rust corrosion or is it just a case of regular winch use to keep surfaces rust free and preventing new brake material sticking to braking surface regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) Clean up ongoing regards Stephen Edited July 7, 2020 by Stellaghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 Looks really good! Are you planning to paint the casing? Mine is in pretty good condition but it is corroding in a few spots so I'm wondering whether to clean it up and give it a coat of something. Got the motor off with a few gentle taps with a soft mallet tonight. Looks like there's been a little bit of moisture in there but it all moves freely and looks clean. Will give it a blow through with the air line and a squirt with some electrical cleaner. Gave the brake a few taps and some more plusgas but still no movement. Puller should arrive at some point this week which should get it off. Gigglepin suggested a liberal spray with WD40 when it's back together to stop the brake pads welding themselves to the plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 1 hour ago, darthdicky said: Looks really good! Are you planning to paint the casing? Mine is in pretty good condition but it is corroding in a few spots so I'm wondering whether to clean it up and give it a coat of something. Thinking about giving it a coat of clear laquer to help with the corrosion Got the motor off with a few gentle taps with a soft mallet tonight. Looks like there's been a little bit of moisture in there but it all moves freely and looks clean. Will give it a blow through with the air line and a squirt with some electrical cleaner. There should be a small drain hole in the bottom of the motor housing make sure its clear this will allow any collected moisture to drain Gave the brake a few taps and some more plusgas but still no movement. Puller should arrive at some point this week which should get it off. Good luck Gigglepin suggested a liberal spray with WD40 when it's back together to stop the brake pads welding themselves to the plates Thats good to know thanks Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 Puller turned up but it wasn’t the instant fix I was hoping for. Hoping that the bolt in the end is engaging with the shaft rather than another part of the brake? And I’m assuming that the lack part is just a cap, not that it wants to come off either. Have left it under tension and will try to apply some heat tomorrow, hoping I’ll return in the morning and find it has relented! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 Soaking it in penetrating oil, heat and a bigger puller did the trick and the brake is now off. Didn’t seem to be a huge amount of corrosion but clearly enough to keep it stuck on. All the bits look fine but need a good clean up. Brake pads still look pretty good to me but I might replace them as I think I have some spares. There is a little bit of play in the bearing/bush that holds the shaft in place so I’m assuming that needs replacing as it shouldn’t move laterally at all? I’ve removed the circlip inside and lifted the drum retainer thing up but the shaft still doesn’t want to come out. Is there anything else holding it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 12, 2020 Author Share Posted July 12, 2020 Also for future reference, the black cap on the end isn’t secured with anything, it was just rusted onto the end. Could have just hit it sideways with a hammer and made my life a lot easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 11 hours ago, darthdicky said: Soaking it in penetrating oil, heat and a bigger puller did the trick and the brake is now off. Didn’t seem to be a huge amount of corrosion but clearly enough to keep it stuck on. All the bits look fine but need a good clean up. Brake pads still look pretty good to me but I might replace them as I think I have some spares. There is a little bit of play in the bearing/bush that holds the shaft in place so I’m assuming that needs replacing as it shouldn’t move laterally at all? I’ve removed the circlip inside and lifted the drum retainer thing up but the shaft still doesn’t want to come out. Is there anything else holding it in? Yours looks to be the newer version from mine I only removed the locking plate and shaft came out along with lip seal and brass bush also mine does not have that plate along side the large gear in your picture I have some sheets with part numbers and exploded drawings on pm me if you need a set and I will photocopy and post to you regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Some progress new brakes and bearings fitted putting the motor together to get past the brushes was a pain springs are very strong paint needs to dry and then fit solenoid and back on the lightweight to try out regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 13, 2020 Author Share Posted July 13, 2020 9 hours ago, Stellaghost said: Yours looks to be the newer version from mine I only removed the locking plate and shaft came out along with lip seal and brass bush also mine does not have that plate along side the large gear in your picture I have some sheets with part numbers and exploded drawings on pm me if you need a set and I will photocopy and post to you regards Stephen It's a Gigglepin shaft so not standard, and their pictures online don't show me quite enough detail to be confident in how it all fits together. I'll drop them an email. Thanks for the offer but I've got the parts manuals from Warn, it's just the non-standard bits I need to figure out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthdicky Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 It’s apart! Apparently the Gigglepin shaft needs drifting out by tapping on the small cam gear. Of course, mine was quite stuck and took some hitting to get it apart but it’s finally in pieces and ready to work out what needs replacing. The worst part to get off was the shim which the circlip sits against - I think there was a tiny bit of damage to the edge (may have been me, may have already been there) which stopped it sliding over the end cleanly. Whilst the needle bearing allows the shaft to rotate smoothly I think I’ll replace it at the same time as it’s clearly had some water in it at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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