Jump to content
TobyMellin

Adapting 110 PTO winch on to a 90......

Recommended Posts

I've always wanted a PTO driven front winch that come on utility/electric board 110's, on my 90 TD5, but I can't find any information anywhere.

Has anyone on here done it?

Hopefully it's as simple as shortening the prop, making some bearing carriers for the prop and bit of fettling.....

prop.jpg

pto.jpg

winch.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would start with fitting the PTO, and see what is in your way with regards to exhaust and mounts etc, then work your way forwards with the shaft. mounting the winch itself should not be a problem obviously. I do remember the TD5 being quite a bit different in the PTO area for the winch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@miketomcat has swapped one of these between 90 and 110, I don't believe there's much to it as the extra length on a 110 is on the back not the front. The distance from gearbox/PTO to front bumper is the same on both.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I fitted one to a 200 TDi 90 I ended up extending the hex shaft at the front , as Daan says different engines had different shaft/joint//bearing layouts  . I've got most of a 3m length of 19mm A/F hex bright bar if you need a longer bit , I've also got a complete TD5 110 pto winch shaft assy. which might be useful for reference .

They are great bits of kit , use EP90 in the worm box (phosphor bronze gears) and plasma rope is much easier to handle . Dirtydiesels thread on upgrading the pto box and shaft is engineering on a Brunel-ian scale

cheers

Steve b

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds promising! 
 

I’ve been putting off purchasing it with such title Info being about. 
 

I think I’m going to take the plunge! 
 

Thanks for the help
 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think that on a 110 the mid box in the exhaust is out of the way, ie further back. On a 90 the drive shaft clashes with the box. Easily fixed with a bit of a custom exhaust section.

drive shaft is week link. They vibrate at any kind of speed (like 5th gear and ur foot down!!). Think Daan use a freelancer prop to get around this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Both my trucks were/are 200tdi (discovery engine fitted in the standard position). From the transfer box forward is the same regardless of chassis length. However different engines are fitted in different positions thus the transfer box moves forward or back depending on engine. Mine came from a 300tdi so I needed to extend the hex. The front crossmember part of the shaft should be the same on all models, mine then has a slip joint and uj next to the front end of the sump followed by a bearing mounted on the sump bolts. Then it's on long shaft all the way back to the PTO box.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, B reg 90 said:

Think that on a 110 the mid box in the exhaust is out of the way, ie further back. On a 90 the drive shaft clashes with the box. Easily fixed with a bit of a custom exhaust section.

drive shaft is week link. They vibrate at any kind of speed (like 5th gear and ur foot down!!). Think Daan use a freelancer prop to get around this?

The TD5 PTO looks a lot longer from standard, so clearly it needs to miss something. I cannot picture what it looks like underneath, but this is what a TD5 specific PTO looks like:

https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=AwrE1xSE9tleUp8AuktXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTB0N2Noc21lBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNwaXZz?p=landrover+td5+pto&fr2=piv-web&fr=mcafee#id=2&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lr-winches.com%2Fuploaded_files%2Fproductvariantmediaitem%2FIMG_20150302_124335.jpg&action=click

I used a freelander prop for the fixed bit and an MGB prop for the slider. no vibration with this. They are much larger in diameter so more difficult to package, but a much nicer engineering solution. I also clocked the PTO, redrilled the flange so you can rotate out of the way, so it does not stick out below the chassis. Important if you are planning to take it offroad.

gallery_336_1371_48881.jpggallery_336_1371_94410.jpg

I fitted a duplex chain, so double the strength compared to standard and a bigger shaft at the bottom. But for the standard winch this is not needed.

 

Daan

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My set up is off an utilities 130 300tdi (though I suspect it was V8).

IMG_20200607_115032.thumb.jpg.cf84fedb8934f1991cc222ec7319788c.jpg

IMG_20200607_115105.thumb.jpg.9debd836c123efb368e933bd4cb68011.jpg

IMG_20200607_115057.thumb.jpg.e8fef339cac0513cf68b8bbb97a4817d.jpg

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having had one I'd think very carefully about whether you really want one, or whether an electric winch would do what you need it to?

The overload clutch in the PTO is sensitive to setup, and seems quite easy to go from cutting out under load and needing to re-rig or double line, or snap the chain if done up too tightly. That was a fun one to get out of when that snapped, as it was impossible to release the tension on the rope without getting another vehicle to take the weight off!

The PTO hangs below the chassis rails unless you clock it round to one side (if you have space), as I found when I snapped one in two on a tree stump. PTO's aren't cheap and the one place that used to refurbish them I think closed when the owner died a few years back. I had a sturdy guard made up to protect the new one which was a lovely piece of kit, but not an off the shelf design.

The bearings and UJ's are quite pricey (if still available), and sit in the worst of the muck so can wear quite quickly and are a pain to grease. They also rattle as they get a bit of wear in them, adding to the noises as you drive. They can also make a right racket and vibrate as you use it, and whilst in theory you could stick it in 5th and give it a load of revs to spool in quickly, unless perfectly balanced you really wouldn't want to.

They can be used with synthetic rope but you'd need a custom fairlead made up as the roller ones can pinch the rope.

Drive assist is possible, but is painfully slow as using low first spins the wheels at say 5mph, where the winch is pulling at a tiny fraction of that. It leads to lots of shifting between neutral to get the rope in the right place, then low to drive assist a bit, then neutral etc. Yes they should be strong enough to pull anything (if set up right), but there are times when drive assisting is necessary and the speed difference is huge.

As you may have guessed, I had one and don't any more. I bought it at the time to try and save some money and not follow the crowd, as I didn't want the cost and complexity of extra batteries, wiring, alternator etc. I should have just got an electric one as it would have probably cost less in the long run and worked when I needed it.

If you're able to deal with the engineering side of things and modify stuff to fit, find alternative bearings, UJ's etc. then they can be a fantastic thing (as most of the guys posting above have shown). If you just want a winch to do a bit of light recovery, go for something else!

Richard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy