landroversforever Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 6 hours ago, HoSS said: Have you thought about the Karcher attachment? I've just bought one but the sand hasnt arrived yet so have not tested. But i did do some internet research before and there was some very positive feedback. Theres a video of a guy taking underseal off with one and reports that on bodywork you get no heat deformation of panels. Only thing to watch is dry it quickly to avoid flash rust. e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T89OAbLj_sI I like that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I'm about to strip a chassis and axles with it, i'll report back. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I like that too - what an excellent way to clean up a chassis with everything in situ .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 I've always discounted them due to the cost of the media..... drying the media afterwoods is a real challange around here, I could use the oven but its an expensive way and it brings all the issues of contaminant fumes into the house Last price I seen for Garnnet was $40 for 10kgs.... watching videos on Youtube I'd estimate 40-60 kg's of media to blast a chassis so $160-240 for media and a whole day.... the last chassis I got blasted cost me $350 (I set it up on the rotisserie and took it down) and half a day to drop off and pick up I've found a way I might be able to dry the sand for free.... I'm looking at solar air drying fruit next yr (Apples, Pears and any damaged appricots). Going to build a version of this https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/tools/solar-food-dehydrator-plans-zm0z14jjzmar The big bonus with the water/media blaster is blasting large vehicle pannels, this is something I always get nervous sending to the blasters and they are expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 No, even the Karcher media is only 35Eur for 50kg. And you just put a tarp down if you want to re-use and let it dry in the sun, which we have plenty of right now. Supposedly you can get good results even with building sand if you sift it, and thats 10x cheaper. This guy has some good info too: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 There is a guy on YouTube using kiln dried sand to strip paint of the hull of a boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 I like how well he did with bulders miz, I wasn't kidding how expensive media is around here lol check this out, this is 5kghttps://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/remington-sand-blasting-grit-5kg/p/236920?gclid=CjwKCAjw1K75BRAEEiwAd41h1EId9UybM6bjhQz8GDh_0_-tCk8ADYxX8ED_ThaoKwd_R_43j6gx6hoCPVMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds None of the local supply shops stock media so its special order with nasty freight charges As for drying it in the sun lol not a reliable option, but if its just builders mix thats sweet it can sit out and blow around, if I loose it to the wind its no drama I also like his idea of fitting the ceramic tips Have added it to the list of projects Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 On 8/5/2020 at 1:20 AM, Anderzander said: There is a guy on YouTube using kiln dried sand to strip paint of the hull of a boat. Not seen the clip but be very careful using sand, there is a reason garnnet is used in these unit and supplied as media, not sure if silica based blasting media can be bought but I expect any that is would be for controlled industrial use or inside cabinets. Silica dust (quartz based sand) can be inhaled and once in the lungs can result in silicosis of the lungs, this is serious just goggle it for details, in the mining industry dry drilling was banned or strongly controlled quite some time ago. Face masks can be used but they need to be good quality ones (canister filter type) as the inhaled dust that ends up in the lungs is small enough to pass through most of the cheap ones, also its not just you but any one down wind that could be effected. I know there are a few people on here with good medical knowledge who could probable fill in more details of effects and precautions needed than I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 6, 2020 Share Posted August 6, 2020 Is it not OK because it’s wet? I thought I read that Karcher said it is to be used with a silica based product... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 On 8/6/2020 at 7:37 PM, sean f said: Not seen the clip but be very careful using sand, there is a reason garnnet is used in these unit and supplied as media, not sure if silica based blasting media can be bought but I expect any that is would be for controlled industrial use or inside cabinets. Silica dust (quartz based sand) can be inhaled and once in the lungs can result in silicosis of the lungs, this is serious just goggle it for details, in the mining industry dry drilling was banned or strongly controlled quite some time ago. Face masks can be used but they need to be good quality ones (canister filter type) as the inhaled dust that ends up in the lungs is small enough to pass through most of the cheap ones, also its not just you but any one down wind that could be effected. I know there are a few people on here with good medical knowledge who could probable fill in more details of effects and precautions needed than I can. No silicosis if its wet as no dust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De Ranged Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 Water will remove dust issues.... In the past I used to deal with asbestose (sp?) and as part of the safety measures we would wet the material and then spray paint on it too control dust issues My only concern is to do with where the builders mix is sourced from.... here in NZ, sand qaurrys are coastal so will have salts in there mix. I was thinking to get half a ton of crusher dust or from one of the inland qaurrys screen out the bigger material and see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 They recommend a wash down to get rid of salts etc before painting. Ok well i received my Karcher sand, seems to be Alu Oxide, not bad at 15Eur for 25kg IMHO. I can report that its very effective, way better than a cheap pistol blaster and somewhere approaching what you would get from a bigger dry blaster. I stuck a 8mx5m tarp down to catch as much as possible, and it did. I'll let it dry in the sun, sift it and try to use it again. No particular safety gear needed, the rebound media is not high energy, just a pair of safety glasses & a hat. It does get everywhere though, i have it in my ears, pockets and any other exposed orifice. Usage - I scraped as much of the underseal as i could off first, it will eat it eventually, but prepping saves on media. I used about 25 for an axle and 25kg for chassis leg (5m long), more sand on order ... and a new washing machine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 Further report - Its working very well. On the 8x5 tarp i've been able to let the media sun-dry, collect, sift and reuse it. I estimate i'm recovering about 70%. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 Great - thanks for sharing. if the rebound is low energy, and thinking of how controllable a jet wash stream is, would you be able to say do a rear crossmember and not rush if stripping back the panels above it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 23 hours ago, Anderzander said: Great - thanks for sharing. if the rebound is low energy, and thinking of how controllable a jet wash stream is, would you be able to say do a rear crossmember and not rush if stripping back the panels above it ? Yeah i would mask them with a bit of wood or somethng, but you should be able to do that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (Water)Blasted chassis. You can see some of the thick bitumen lower left, it goes through that well, and down to metal if you want, but i've left what paint was still sticking. It does flash rust just after, but that brushes off easily enough and anyway the 2K epoxy i'm using supposedly is good direct onto light rust anyway. Media recovered on tarp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 I just bought myself an Arwin blast cabinet for the small stuff, and the immediate problem is the dust. Theres a little cone filter on the side and i connected up my vaccum cleaner, it helps but it very quickly blocks. If i were to connect the vac without the filter it would take blast media out. I was musing on making a dust separator, i.e. a box on the outside with the vaccum connected to it where the blast media would drop to the bottom and the dust be taken by the vac. I am i reinventing the wheel? Is this done on more professional units? Any designs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vogler Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Not as heavy duty as what you're aiming for, but I fabricobled a Thien baffle much like the one in the YT film below when I had a lot of sawing work to do in our apartment. I hooked my circular saw to a workshop vac with the thing in between, and it worked surprisingly well for basically just two buckets and some drain piping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Nice, i might knock something like that up. The only issue is that the suction is so large on my vac that it pulls the gloves taught and that makes life more difficult, perhaps a bypass to use only some of the vac pressure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 22 minutes ago, HoSS said: ... The only issue is that the suction is so large on my vac that it pulls the gloves taught and that makes life more difficult, perhaps a bypass to use only some of the vac pressure... In my view the best alternative is to make the air inlet hole larger. This will give greater overall air flow through the cabinet, thus making dust extraction quicker. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 I made an additional hole - a super tight fit to the hoover, but right next to the gloves - so the blasting is moving away from it. It does get some media - but not much. Someone on here helpfully said to me that you should get just enough negative pressure to slowly lift the gloves - set up like that - mine does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 yeah my workshop vac is an industrial bosch, the gloves are rigid My cheap hoover doesnt even suck dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 The one at work (all in one professional level cabinet) pulls the gloves right out. Should add as a vacuum engineer that it’s atmospheric pressure pushing them in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 At the risk of taking the thread off track... thats a debatable concept. Its the difference in pressure that pushes it one way or the other, and since the difference is made by the vacuum, the energy being put in to do it is being supplied by the vac, so i would maintain 'pulled'. Funnily enough i also deal with under-pressure enclosures, I run a hotcell (big lead lined box with gloves and remote manipulators), under-pressure in there is only 100 Pa (1 mBar) and thats enough to stand the gloves up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 Going further OT.... 1mbar... that’s cute 😛. Some of our kit Doesn’t even start until 1x10e-2mbar. My main project runs at round 4e-8mbar at the moment... should drop into the -9s when we’ve done some more work. What do you do? CERN? I used to work with manipulators... did about 6 years of it before moving to the vacuum side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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