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Various additional gauges into an S3


Landrover17H

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My oil-pressure light would come on, and under investigation i found a faulty oil-pressure switch.

However this was not before a fraught period thinking I had a 'shot' engine. Anyways, I put in a heap of gauges, vacuum, voltmeter, lambda (yes really) and the lack of an oil-pressure gauge was covered too. I've mentioned this in Gazzer's 2.5 rebuild thread, but this got me to looking at the Military gauge cluster, and turns out, squaddies got an oil-temp gauge too. Not sure if these where only fitted to FFR but anyways, I thought I'd fit one. This loses the 'Charge' light, but it's easliy moved.

See pix...

S3 Milly Gauges.png

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Mine was broken anyway, and even if I had such a thing, I understand the 'milly' sump-pan differs to allow fitment of a mechanical sender and the FFR oil-cooler. Or there's a tapping on the oil-filter housing for this, not sure. Wiser than me will say. I've decided to do this electrically, using 'civvy' parts.

See (ETC5347) ...

ETC5347 02.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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Back in the day, virtually everything on the road had some flavour of the Smiths/Jaeger multi-gauge cluster, I got the parts I wanted from a Humber Snipe. It won't matter, you're looking for a temperature gauge. Water or oil, temperature is temperature. Any would do.

Humber Super Snipe 20-05-20  01.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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You could use an S3 Water temp gauge, only issue is that sitting up on the left of the cluster, the gauge direction would be wrong when inserted in the spare 'Charge' slot. Running left to right, here's an Austin A110, it would be dandy...

Just swap the black display face, around to make it all look 'right'.

Austin A110 temp Gauge.png

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If you have a spin on oil filter adapter (eg TDI) you can tap one of the blanking plugs for an aftermarket sensor. These are usually 1/8NPT thread.

IMG_20200412_165150.jpg

IMG_20200412_165919.jpg

IMG_20200412_164045.jpg

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I had a gaping hole in the centre of the dash when I got my truck. It only took me 20 years to do something with it....

IMG_20200418_170556.thumb.jpg.290d340af47ba54975c3732dc6a30e8a.jpg

The oil temp gauge is on the left.

They may only be cheap gauges, but the clock hasn't lost a minute since installation 3 months ago.

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Schnice. Only 20...  I was going to go in via the oil-feed pipe at it exits the cylinder head. Reason...  some 2.5 17H already have ETC5347. Sadly i don't and it's a pricey part. (£100 odd)

I've a spin-on, one of these in there now. It has no spare blanking-plugs like ETC5347.  A TDi adaptor if it fits, has to be cheaper and easier. Tapping what I've got could be done, but a pain to do.

Mine is LAND ROVER 537229.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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The one tapping on mine has the oil-pressure switch in it.

 

On the cosmetics front: I used the black gauge fascia from the 'milly' gauge cluster, but being mechanical, it didn't quite fit -with centres 'off - onto the Humber Snipe electrical variant. Tin-snips had it fitting the Mufti variant gauge, and it looks messy, but assembled, you'll not see it. Yes... I know. But needs must.

Edited by Landrover17H
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32 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:

The one tapping on mine has the oil-pressure switch in it.

 

On the cosmetics front: I used the black gauge fascia from the 'milly' gauge cluster, but being mechanical, it didn't quite fit -with centres 'off - onto the Humber Snipe electrical variant. Tin-snips had it fitting the Mufti variant gauge, and it looks messy, but assembled, you'll not see it. Yes... I know. But needs must.

Whatever works, and stays working.

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I'm trying to visualise how you'd get a sensor at the oil pipe on the block. Failing, though.

Do recall that the sender might be quite long, so needs a respectable chamber in order to get into the oil.

My first plan failed:

 

IMG_20200408_113716.jpg

IMG_20200408_113721.jpg

IMG_20200408_113707.jpg

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Exactly my thoughts, I've already put the oil-pressure sender on a extension-adaptor as you've shown. Can't really do that with a temperature sender, the easy way would be as below. My first 17H had one of these, and now I weep. I weighed-in that 12 years ago. They were a throw-away item et al. I think later models had oil-coolers flow/return from here? But it's a bit dear to buy just to put in a sender. I'll figure it.

Easy Way.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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The rest with USB charge socket sitting down RHS of centre-console, cigar-lighter socket on LHS (not in shot), heated-screens switch, leftmost, and moved interior-lamps switch to the right. Found some really nice toggle-switches on an old Teasmade, and yes... before you ask, she was Goblin'...

Gauge overkill? Vacuum, Voltmeter, oil-pressure, and wideband-lambda 'up top'. No Ammeter though. Not happy with look of Lambda, the Smiths voltmeter needs looking at too.

 

Series 3 Land Rover Gauges 07-06-20  02.png

Edited by Landrover17H
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Don't like Smiths voltmeters from that era. They've a heater in them and operate so slowly, they're next to useless. You have no idea what's going on, but they look good. Put a modern Chinese movement into the Smiths case with mine. Need to find a thin surround to match the others.

Centre console: In such as small space, packing in wiring, lambda-gauge, cigar/USB sockets, fuseboxes, relays, switches, indicator, and did I mention a further USB supply to power the Satnav?,  took more work and far longer than I ever have thought. Everything went in soldered and shrinked (nothing crimped)... and I've not finished yet.

I wouldn't call it pretty. i'd like it to look stock or like something that could have been. Unfortunately, leanings to modern-driving lambda, SatNav et al, means it'll never achieve that.

Edited by Landrover17H
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Quote
 

I'm trying to visualise how you'd get a sensor at the oil pipe on the block.

Good, because i don't know. I think electrical temp senders are a lot smaller, and as long as it can be sited 'in flow' it should be good. I was going to pay a visit to my local hydraulics suppliers, hoping and praying  they've a fitting that'll squeeze into the banjo-fitting seen on mine. Else, tap my spin-on filter housing adaptor...

Edited by Landrover17H
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42 minutes ago, Landrover17H said:

Good, because i don't know. I think electrical temp senders are a lot smaller, and as long as it can be sited 'in flow' it should be good. I was going to pay a visit to my local hydraulics suppliers, hoping and praying  they've a fitting that'll squeeze into the banjo-fitting seen on mine. Else, tap my spin-on filter housing adaptor...

The feed to the head is an option, it's high up, which I like. If it were me, I'd get a piece of fat hex bar, tap it for the banjo, thread it for the block, and side tap it for the sender.

If you had a mill, you could do the same with bar stock.

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