doezel Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I got hold of a 4.0 thor engine. Tophat liners are now in it, as well as a 4.6 crank and pistons. Also a kent h180 cam is fitted. now it’s assembly time. Engine will run on a ms3x sent to me by a well known forum member. as soon as I get the engine running I will start the actual swap into my 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 I’m just behind you with the same engine. Will be watching with interest.👍 How much material did you need to take off the pulley face? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulN Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Plenty of pictures and detail please Mr @doezel 😊😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 1 hour ago, Bigj66 said: I’m just behind you with the same engine. Will be watching with interest.👍 How much material did you need to take off the pulley face? Nice! You're not behind me but already in front of me since you got already a lot bolted on. As for the pulley; I started just 2mm outside of the 2 bolt holes, and then grounded it flat to the flange that was already there. Easy peasy! Did you remove the airco compressor mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Yes, I won’t be needing it and it looked a bit daft with the empty bracket although the coffee table idea was floated for a while 😊 I need to get to a rolling chassis stage first before I can install the engine and order the MS from Nige👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) Also thinking of the idea of removing the airco-bracket. But it's also a nice mount to place a 2nd alternator in the future. On the other side: With that bracket removed; it's a lot easier to route the cooling-hose from the thermostat house to the radiator. I have a running 90 right now. That's why I am completely building the engine on a stand so I can start it before I take the running car of the road to do the actual swap. (Say Hi! to Nige from me 🙂 ) As for monitoring; Since I'm using the MS3X, I have a Canbus. So this will be my monitoring-alert device and revcounter in my dash: (I want to make sure the temperature stays low and the afr won't go lean)https://www.bankspower.com/i-2695-banks-idash-1-8-supergauge-aftermarket-can-ecu-primary-gauge-for-aftermarket-ecus-can-bus.html#! And since my analog speedometer is quite wobbly; I will switch to a TD5 speedometer. I want to have it the same reading as my analog meter so I use this post: Edited June 11, 2020 by doezel 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Yes the additional room for a coolant hose was also one of the reasons I removed the bracket. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 19 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: Yes the additional room for a coolant hose was also one of the reasons I removed the bracket. Nicely done! Wish I didn't need the steering-assist pump 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 5 hours ago, doezel said: Nicely done! Wish I didn't need the steering-assist pump 🙂 You could fit an electric one, lots of cars have them - Project Binky uses a Mercedes A-Class one that's very neat & compact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) Yeah but then the engine would REALLY look out of balance. I think I’ll stick with the hydraulic one and somehow make space for the cooling hose. and I would need to make a Bracket with CAD design and that would take me at least 48hrs in true Binky fashion. only Binky thing to consider is adding a safe-t Device. Edited June 11, 2020 by doezel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 5 hours ago, doezel said: only Binky thing to consider is adding a safe-t Device. That may affect the low-down lazy manner of the V8 though, it's very nice not to have to wait for safety to kick in 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Little update: added the valley gasket, lower inlet manifold, injectors, fuel rail, steering assist pump and flywheel. Next up: the very clean exhaust manifolds.... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 (edited) Another little update: Since I received all sensors and actuators, I've added the wiring loom, connected the injectors, water temp sensor, and the crank position sensor. I placed the crank-pully on the axle and placed cyl-1 on Top-Dead-Center (while looking into the spark-plug hole) Then I marked TDC on the pully and placed the 36-1 gap on the timing wheel 5 teeth after TDC. now waiting for some small parts: exhaust manifold gasket and inbetween inlet manifold gasket. Edited June 24, 2020 by doezel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Very neat! All ahead of me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 On 6/11/2020 at 6:53 PM, FridgeFreezer said: You could fit an electric one, lots of cars have them - Project Binky uses a Mercedes A-Class one that's very neat & compact. Hi Mr. @FridgeFreezer, do you have some more info on this? Has it been done before on a Defender? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 No idea if it's been done on a Defender but I'm sure someone out there (probably in comp safari) has done it. Loads of modern cars have electric pumps, the one Binky used you just give it 12v and ground and plumb the two hoses in. They're not expensive used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 On 6/11/2020 at 12:04 PM, doezel said: As for monitoring; Since I'm using the MS3X, I have a Canbus. So this will be my monitoring-alert device and revcounter in my dash: (I want to make sure the temperature stays low and the afr won't go lean)https://www.bankspower.com/i-2695-banks-idash-1-8-supergauge-aftermarket-can-ecu-primary-gauge-for-aftermarket-ecus-can-bus.html#! That is soooooo shiny ! ❤ Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Are you running MS3x with DCD or EDIS? Looks like a nice build, following with interest 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 9 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: No idea if it's been done on a Defender but I'm sure someone out there (probably in comp safari) has done it. Loads of modern cars have electric pumps, the one Binky used you just give it 12v and ground and plumb the two hoses in. They're not expensive used. I'll give it a look; looks like a nice idea and I can drop the complete aircon/steering assist bracket. Flow and pressure should be equal? 2 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said: That is soooooo shiny ! ❤ It is! And it should fit nicely next to the water-temp and fuel gauge instead of a regular revcounter. Just now, elbekko said: Are you running MS3x with DCD or EDIS? Looks like a nice build, following with interest 👍 It will be an EDIS system, especially since there's no distributor on the later v8 engines. don't know that DCD is... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 DCD = Direct Coil Drive. But you using EDIS explains why you didn't just use the standard 60-2 trigger wheel on the flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 24, 2020 Author Share Posted June 24, 2020 ah yes, There are (will be) 2 coil packs mounted on the back of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Where did you get the base for your engine trolley? I'd like to copy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 (edited) It was just a trolley that was lying around. It looked something like this:https://discountoffice.nl/p/platform-2593 Edited June 26, 2020 by doezel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 Well, change of plans! Since I found out that it's hard to explain to my wife that with a 90 it's either luggage or kids. I just bought myself a nice 2003 TD5 automatic and decided to sell my beautiful 90 MPI. So the TD5 engine is already sold so (hopefully) I can start the swap of the TD5 to this Thor-V8 in the beginning september. Since there is already a ZF 4HP24 with a standalone compushift AND a 1.2 disco-transfer case in this 110, I will use that as a base to mount the engine to. I just need to change the bellhouse and torque convertor. I think the 110 is a better base to start this conversion from as I already have a much better brake-system including ABS! It also has aircon, electric windows, a heated front windshield, a nice speaker system to compliment the Pioneer 2din radio I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doezel Posted October 7, 2020 Author Share Posted October 7, 2020 (edited) Update! We finally got around to start doing the swap! First there was a lot of TD5 carp removed: (This will be going into another Defender, don't worry!) And then The correct Bellhouse and torque convertor was mounted. Then the THOR was fitted: next step; plumbing it all in! Edited October 7, 2020 by doezel 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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