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ZF4HP22 (non-electronic) Removal


WesBrooks
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Hi All,

Should we have a forum (/is there on that I've missed!) specifically for generic tech questions like this and my previous one on the brakes? Seems it's not the point of the International forum, but it makes less sense sticking it in a model specific forum as unless we're talking about body panels much of the Defender/Range Rover/Discovery came from the same parts bin.

Continuing the strip down of the Range Rover Classic I'm now ready to remove the braking system from the body and then move onto removing the automatic gearbox selector. Does it make sense to leave it in a specific gear to make re-assembly easier? Currently I've left it in park with the bog-warner in neutral. Other extreme of travel would be '3'.

Thanks!

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3 minutes ago, WesBrooks said:

Hi All,

Should we have a forum (/is there on that I've missed!) specifically for generic tech questions like this and my previous one on the brakes? Seems it's not the point of the International forum, but it makes less sense sticking it in a model specific forum as unless we're talking about body panels much of the Defender/Range Rover/Discovery came from the same parts bin.

Continuing the strip down of the Range Rover Classic I'm now ready to remove the braking system from the body and then move onto removing the automatic gearbox selector. Does it make sense to leave it in a specific gear to make re-assembly easier? Currently I've left it in park with the bog-warner in neutral. Other extreme of travel would be '3'.

Thanks!

I don’t think it makes a difference Wes as you can set the selector position up later.

Id recommend splitting the BW off the main box though to make handling safer and easier.

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Cheers. That is what I assumed but thought it wise to check!

I've got a similar job to yourself to perform. Props are getting reversed to move the engine back around 10" before I can tack the engine mounts in position, and mark the transfer/gearbox mounts up. I guess the all up weight of the drained drive train to the in the order of 360-400kg, so that will prevent the longest reach of the 1 ton engine crane, perhaps limit to the shorter two if at all possible. There will be no bodywork that needs to be lifted over.

Still advise removing the transfer box? I'm not to sure how I would get the transfer box mount holes lined up well with the gearbox and without it being attached to the gearbox?

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44 minutes ago, WesBrooks said:

Cheers. That is what I assumed but thought it wise to check!

I've got a similar job to yourself to perform. Props are getting reversed to move the engine back around 10" before I can tack the engine mounts in position, and mark the transfer/gearbox mounts up. I guess the all up weight of the drained drive train to the in the order of 360-400kg, so that will prevent the longest reach of the 1 ton engine crane, perhaps limit to the shorter two if at all possible. There will be no bodywork that needs to be lifted over.

Still advise removing the transfer box? I'm not to sure how I would get the transfer box mount holes lined up well with the gearbox and without it being attached to the gearbox?

Ah ok, I thought you were just taking the box out. So engine and box together?

Lifting wise it’s awkward due to the offset CoG of the combination. The hook needs to be over the bell housing flange with the engine and a three leg sling arrangement used. You might struggle getting it over the chassis with the engine crane if it’s still on wheels due to the sling lengths and angles required and the limited head height of the crane even on full boom. I had an overhead chain hoist so a bit more head room.

One sling will go to the front nearside engine lift bracket, one to the rear offside engine bracket  and the other around the transmission drum.
 

If the drum is off then you need a 4 leg sling arrangement.

The weight is in the offside due to the TB position so the sling to the drum needs to be adjustable so you can trim it properly. I used a decent ratchet strap to do this as that sling takes a lot of tension. Avoid using the cheap thin luggage straps and keep the sling clear of sharp edges. I found old seatbelts to be very good but proper slings are best. The engine lift bracket you have doesn’t really work well in this situation unless you’re lifting the engine separately. I tried it but couldn’t get the load to sit right.

It will take a bit of trial and error.

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If you do end up having to split it then the torque converter really adds to the weight of the box but it’s not needed to do the trial fit. Given that you’re on the limits for the lifting gear it might just be quicker to whip out the bell housing bolts, remove the TC, handle them separately and then just bolt them together alongside the space frame again to do the trial lift.

Alternatively, if you want me to measure anything up on mine then just shout.

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2 hours ago, WesBrooks said:

Should we have a forum (/is there on that I've missed!) specifically for generic tech questions like this and my previous one on the brakes? Seems it's not the point of the International forum, but it makes less sense sticking it in a model specific forum as unless we're talking about body panels much of the Defender/Range Rover/Discovery came from the same parts bin.

There's been many discussions about that over the years ;) If you split 'International'* into a purely technical general forum and a more or less off topic chat forum you'll end up with:

  1. Too many people nitpicking over whether posts in the technical forum are too casual and should be in chat, creating a toxic atmosphere
  2. The chat forum being seen as 'anything goes' and descending into inanity

Basically International exists because LR4x4 has always - I think generally fairly successfully - tried to walk the delicate line between useful tech and friendly chat/banter.

 

* - The name of the International Forum is a whole other topic in itself. It was inherited from the old LRE forums that this community moved from when it was under threat of closure. That had International (the main general purpose forum) and various regional ones, many of which saw little traffic so those weren't replicated on here. International makes no sense as a name on here, but repeated attempts over the years to come up with something that captures what it actually is have failed to produce anything anyone actually likes, so it's stuck.

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I will double check the drawings I have of the chassis and see if I can calculate roughly the relative positions of the mount pounts. Engine angle changes subtly as in moves back but not a massive issue. Everything centres around the position of the transfer box relative to the two axles to save me needing new custom props.
This is the standard tomcat engine shift back as far as I'm aware.

 

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