200tdi Discovery to Defender

[Nonimouse]

But that is very minimal wear

[jokeruk]

Rushed out to try new socket - working from home lays out way to many temptations, although started at 7.30 to get ahead.

I've taken the Main caps off - not terrible although as I mentioned previously I suspect oil has been left to fester rather than regular changes

[jokeruk]

48 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:

having just done the shells on mine - first time in the life of the engine, the bottom ones had wear, the tops very little. But the tops take more time to change

Did you regrind the crank Nonimouse?

[jokeruk]

14 hours ago, western said:

Sounds like the strip down is going OK then, sorry to here a socket had lost its will to live in the process. 

keep the thread updated, almost everyone on here loves a good engine rebuild post. 

I have to admit it was an old socket from my first ever socket set purchased circa 1982 . Despite having other sets, I've tended to go away from the multi-point sockets (can't remember the proper name) and stick with either six sided or centre grip sockets.

[Gazzar]

Massive difference between a driver and a wrench. Chalk and cheese

[jokeruk]

11 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Massive difference between a driver and a wrench. Chalk and cheese

never tried any air tools - so all to learn

 

[Gazzar]

You can get them in all varieties, air, battery mains.

You can spend a lot on them, Milwaukee 18v stuff will undo serious nuts. Think rusty truck and trailer wheel nuts.

 

[western]

those big ends look much better condition than mine were, all the white metal on my lower shells had gone, but the uppers looked better.

[jokeruk]

Bit of a slow weekend, mainly cleaning down (and twice as much time clearing up the mess I made.

lifted the crank out, top bearings weren't so bad

[jokeruk]

I still dont thing the newer versions of gunk 'the pink one' are as good as the old brown

but the block, ladder and sump are cleaner

[Nonimouse]

On 6/19/2020 at 12:27 PM, jokeruk said:

Did you regrind the crank Nonimouse?

no need. no damage. end float well within tolerance

[jokeruk]

I’m just collating a list of parts to buy and wondered what people’s views were on the suppliers of bearings/seals/gasket sets. I’ve read on the forum that going for genuine seals is a good idea so that is a given however, is there an accepted/recommended supplier for bearings and gaskets or rebuild sets- there are so many ‘specialists’ selling spares with prices for budget and OEM parts, it feels like a bit of a minefield. Or am I just overthinking it?

[western]

I bought majority of my parts from Turner Engineering, as they had everything in stock, the parcel was delivered quickly to. 

[jokeruk]

2 hours ago, western said:

I bought majority of my parts from Turner Engineering, as they had everything in stock, the parcel was delivered quickly to. 

Thanks Western - I was looking at their site as one of the options.

Of course, I now have the question of are the parts different between defender 200tdi and discovery tdi as the part numbers for pistons, mains and big ends are all discovery ones

ERR1387

ERR8841

ERC8839

Should I order disco parts or should they be the same?

I'm guessing I should get disco ones as it is a 200tdi disc engine

 

[western]

Piston part number will depend on the size, if they are standard or oversize. basic block is the same as are internals.

[jokeruk]

1 hour ago, western said:

Piston part number will depend on the size, if they are standard or oversize. basic block is the same as are internals.

It says STD on the piston so I'm assuming standard size 

[western]

Yep STD = standard size, but before ordering new piston & ring sets measure the bores & find out if a re-bore is required, my engine had a dark area on part of the bores, a 020 oversize cleared it, Also check the pistons are good 3 of mine had a semicircular hairline crack just below the oil control ring.

[jokeruk]

On 6/23/2020 at 4:12 PM, western said:

Yep STD = standard size, but before ordering new piston & ring sets measure the bores & find out if a re-bore is required, my engine had a dark area on part of the bores, a 020 oversize cleared it, Also check the pistons are good 3 of mine had a semicircular hairline crack just below the oil control ring.

Ok, measured everything, inspected the bores with a bright light, can’t see any piston damage so have put an order together for Turners.

One annoyance is I chucked my cylinder head gasket away as part of last Sunday’s de-grease-athon clear-up.   So no I have no idea how many dots......grrrrrr

[western]

Either measure the piston protrusion when you have refitted he crank/pistons or buy the thickest head gasket [no holes] there's a list with part numbers in the tech archive, engines section.

[jokeruk]

.....much time later

Many things got in the way (getting married, new driveway, new job) of my project but I have made progress and am back on the job

I decided to get the block re-bored - as I was in there.

costs of course have gone up as I kept finding things I really needed to do,  - and this list grows. It has not been helped by my original aim of keeping my defender on the road and so the change from a disco 200 tdi to a defender was supposed to be completed as far as possible until engine which brings me on to today's problem.

 

 

When I went to re-assemble the camshaft - I spotted that the keyway was cracked at the back, coupled with quite a bit of damage to the back of the cam sprocket, so new cam and sprocket ordered and fitted however, there is no dot/mark on the new cam sprocket!

I have the crank at TDC with a lockpin in the flywheel, I have a lockpin  in the FIP and no mark on the cam to align! I've dropped a pushrod in and can work out where the valve closure point is, but that does not feel particularly scientific - I was rather hoping that it would be cam sprocket key at 12:00 but very much doubt it is as simple as that!  I have of course disposed of my old sprocket - as the pile of removed parts was getting unmanageable without keeping damaged u/s ones.   So can anyone advise me of the best approach for setting the camshaft?

and.....given the FIP has been removed how  confident can I be that I have the lockpin in the right place - the hole did not align particularly well and articles I've read suggest it should pull out freely.

Sorry I'm sure I should be able to work this out for myself - but feel a lack of confidence.

All advice as always welcome

Edited October 1, 2020 by western
dead links removed.

[western]

Are you sure the cam timing gear is fitted the correct way round ? 

 

With ref to the images, they just show as email links, not pictures, you can upload the pictures direct from your computer or phone, 

just use the upload files link next to the paperclip icon, then chose the picture & click open it will auto upload,or send themto me& I'll add them for you 

[jokeruk]

doh, not sure what went wrong with the pictures...

Let's try this

looks better to me - although I could see them previously.

I'm fairly sure that I have the gear the right way around but....

[western]

I can tidy up the previous post with the dead links in If you want me to ? 

for the camshaft timing gear timing mark have a look here https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/err-666-pulley-camshaft-c2x20634827

if you hover over the photo it will show a close up that you can move around the gear, looking at it with the woodruf keyway at 12 o'clock the timing dimple is just left of the 12o'clock tooth location just below the yellow line on the screenshot 

[jokeruk]

Thanks for the picture and link - I will investigate tomorrow - and yes if you can kill off the dead links that would be great

[western]

Your welcome, I deleted the dead links in other post as well.