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Diff flange removal


Bigj66
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I would like to remove the diff flange so I can give it a god clean but it’s unclear from the workshop manual whether removing the flange, mud shield and seal will upset the preload settings.

Anyone done this before?

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You are safe !

 

Remove split pin, whizz off nut

Underneath is a large washer

PULL flange off seperate washer.

 

Now, you have some choices

 

New seal there are different types, 

which also links into which drive flange you shove on if it needs renewing

post up picky of the area the seal sits and I'll advise then of route(s) to go

 

All routes are replace and a bit of sealer under the big washer Tortque up to 80-90 Ft Lbs (so castle nut lines up for new split pin)

Job done won't have affected backlash or run out ...

Nige

 

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9 minutes ago, Hybrid_From_Hell said:

You are safe !

 

Remove split pin, whizz off nut

Underneath is a large washer

PULL flange off seperate washer.

 

Now, you have some choices

 

New seal there are different types, 

which also links into which drive flange you shove on if it needs renewing

post up picky of the area the seal sits and I'll advise then of route(s) to go

 

All routes are replace and a bit of sealer under the big washer Tortque up to 80-90 Ft Lbs (so castle nut lines up for new split pin)

Job done won't have affected backlash or run out ...

Nige

 

Great, thanks Nige 👍

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  • 5 months later...

I made a handy tool with a 3 ft length of 1.5 x 1.5 inch angle iron.  One end I drilled two 3/8" holes 2 inches apart.  I attached that to the flange to hold it in place while I broke the nut loose and also for retorquing the nut back on.  

I replaced my seal, flange and mud shield.  Did not do anything with the shims. 

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Mark the nut and flange with a dab of paint. Undo nut, when putting it back torque back up until paint marks align. As the others have said already on the Rover diff, there isn't a crush tube/shims to worry about.

Another way of getting the nut off on your own (easier with 2 as someone can apply the footbrake), is to fit socket and breaker bar to nut, fit trolley jack under breaker bar handle part way along and take up slack with the jack. Belt the far end of the breaker bar with your favourite lump hammer. Nut will crack off. Works everytime.

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You can remove those flanges on the Rover diffs without worry; it’s the Salisbury diffs with their crushable preload spacer that is theoretically sensitive to changes and should have the nut and pinion end indexed for alignment on reassembly, but in practice a torque of 150’lbs gets rid of any play and hysteresis in the tube but isn’t enough to increase the preload over the previous setting, so works fine as a bit of a fudge.

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