xychix Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Hi all, Please help me out on correct part-numbers (as I've just ordered a full kit to be thrown away..... ) I've ordered a kit DA1337, however the tensioner looks different to what I'd expect and the chain has 39 links (vs 38 on my engine). My spanner looks like ETC5190T (is it safe to assume ETC5190 would be the 38 shackle chain to go with that?) Not sure if the sprockets are the same size. Hard to tell without tearing everything off it already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 DA1337 is for the petrol , Turners only show one set of parts for the diesel . I couldn't see a diesel kit on Britcar.co.uk . Is your engine a 5 main bearing 2.25 ? ETC5190 does not show on Turners , the pictures of it on Britcar are a type I've not seen , but then I haven't had the front off a 5mb 2.25 yet . An engine number would clear up any doubts cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) there is the issue, the point where the engine number should be is a blanked space. It's a 1979 build series III 109 (with safari roof). So could be either a 5 or 3 bearing engine (i'd guess the latter) . Only clear mark I have is the current chaintensioner (looks like a ETC5190T to me) ETC4499 (at turner) also counts 39 links in the chain that is supposed to fit diesel and petrol. Edited July 5, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) some digging, should be a 3 main bearing block...? Edited July 5, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 That's a 3mb block - no ribs on the outside and 5mb is red oxide coloured from the factory . Can you give us a picture of your existing timing chain set up ? Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) Must say I'm supprised to find little to no wear on the slider on the right side. Maybe the 77.000 km is genuine after all... but why file off the engine number.... ? Edited July 5, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 According to my Factory parts book that is the series 3 3mb petrol tensioner , the parts book shows the diesel series 3 to be the same as the series 2 & 2a petrol and diesel . That would suggest that the kit you have should fit ? I'd give it a go the difference in chain length would be for the other type which has a tensioner sprocket as opposed to the block on this one . Clearly the ideal solution would be to source the correct unit , but that is several parts and ££'s too . Are you replacing the skew gear and bearing as well ? when worn they affect the injection pump timing significantly cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) The DA1337 has a tensioner and the gears (3 in total... one is called 'idle' gear? No clue where that should go) The one in the kit looks like this: Edited July 5, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Series 2 ,2a & 3 diesel and series 2 & 2a petrol Series 2 ,2a & 3 diesel and Series 2 & 2a petrol Series3 petrol. Now I've thought about it , I'm not sure what issues you may have using the petrol set up - the cam chain does have a lot more load driving the FIP - this may be related to your emissions problems . cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 5, 2020 Author Share Posted July 5, 2020 But for the setup with the proper diesel spanner I'm missing the part that has number 21... So i did receive a spring and the driver, but not the base. And given I've got a different setup now I dont have the part numbered 21 in the picture. Must say there is barely any slack in the chain, nor wear on the slider. As to your email, what is the FIP? You mean diesel has more torque and thereby more pressure on the tensioner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Looks like mine, from a 2495 petrol. The diesel FIP, fuel injection pump, is MUCH harder to turn, and has a lot of "kick" like the same way turning an engine isn't smooth. So the tensioner has to work harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Sorry, FIP = fuel injection pump . Whilst it does not deliver a big flow it is at very high pressure , 300 bar or so , consequently every rotation of the pump shaft is resisted by 4 very hard injection pulses as compared to the petrol distributor just spinning to open and shut contacts . A good indicator for chain and gear wear is to grasp the chain half way round the cam wheel contact area - at the top - and see how much lift you have at one roller . I would definitely pull the injector pump , then the adaptor then the skew gear and bearing for a look . Remove oil filter housing to access the securing screw for the gear and bearing . End float in this skew gear and bearing is your biggest enemy in the 2.25 diesel . Parts to complete the diesel set up Ratchet 546026 Step bolt 247199 Piston and housing 247912 Steel ball 3739 ball retainer clip 233328 plus nuts (UNF) spring washers and /or tab washers I hope this helps Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) story continues. As putting stuff back together (for now with the original chain on) I put fluids in and tried to start her. Nothing. Suddenly realised I forgot to bleed. Did all the bleeding, looked all good but no fuel at injectors. After going on that for a little longer I lifted the fuel pump back out to find the driver for the pump has sheered in 2!!!! Will remove the full pump tomorrow to check whether or not the full pump is locked up....... Get the feeling everytime I touch the landrover I get her closer to a grave.... first a beer than i'll dig a hole to see if I can find any good-luck Edited July 18, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 yep. pump lockedup as well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 It's the challenge of overcoming adversity, being the only one that can fix it, despite decades of previous owners. If you want easy, by Dacia duster every 6 years, and have done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Gazzar said: It's the challenge of overcoming adversity, being the only one that can fix it, despite decades of previous owners. If you want easy, by Dacia duster every 6 years, and have done with it. yes yes, i will go on. Just for now give me a few hours with a beer in my hand p.s. I already have a Toyota Hilux as daily driver for cool adventures, still ever wanted a defender 130. So this 109 and the hilux are together filling that space Edited July 18, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 I know. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Gazzar said: I know. forward looking: are innerparts for a fuel injection pump parts you could buy? Or is it considered 1 'piece' and should I try my luck with salvaging a complete pump? Edited July 18, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 19, 2020 Author Share Posted July 19, 2020 hmm would need a new driver: 7123-592B And likely a services pump, hopefully a serviced pump also increases on how it runs? After these additions I'm likely back where I was. A series III that won't make French MOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 You are not having much luck with this . Did you turn the pump while it was out to check rotation ? I'm struggling to think what could have happened in such a short time removed to lock it up . Are you allowed to fit a later LR engine ? Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 The pump is a difficult part to service and it’s calibration has to be set up to very fine tolerances, so I don’t think it’s a home-build proposition. The ground off engine number is a concern. That’s only ever done to conceal the identity of the engine, usually for one of two purposes: it was stolen, or; to try to hide the identity of parts in a vehicle wearing a false identity number. It may be worth speaking to your testers to see if they will approve the vehicle with the engine number destroyed before you sink any more money into this engine. For what it’s worth, that engine type is the 10J. It’s indirect injection, too, not “Di” - the Di label is loosely applied in LR circles to Tdi engines running without the turbo charger, but the Tdi was the first LR engine to have DI, the 10, 12 and 19J (the latter being the TD) all have indirect injection where the fuel is squirted into a swirl chamber above the main cylinder. DI squirts the fuel straight into the cylinder, achievable by using higher injection pressures to achieve the atomisation that the swirl chambers tried to achieve with lower pressures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, steve b said: You are not having much luck with this . Did you turn the pump while it was out to check rotation ? I'm struggling to think what could have happened in such a short time removed to lock it up . Are you allowed to fit a later LR engine ? Steve b Any diesel engine in roughly the same power range should do I believe. @Snagger, this engine did get a 'CT' (MOT) ok 3 times in the last 6 years. No complaints on the engine number. Main concern is the pollution test that was new last CT (MOT), they gave me a 'go' but that's not something they could keep doing as it was failing miserably. It is a left hand drive, which would mean a 200tdi is likely not to as exhaust and turbo would mess with steering rods... Edited July 20, 2020 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 It's a shame you are so far away , I have a decent late 2.25 5mb engine in the shed and a 2.5 non turbo 5mb too . Time to look locally for something that will bolt in . Have you considered going to petrol if that is allowed? Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted July 22, 2020 Author Share Posted July 22, 2020 well I've made first contacts with a guy selling a complete disco II 200tdi... Not sure what future is going to bring.... but is less likely by the day I'm going to get the 2.25 back on the road. However, I've seen more weird stuff happen around this series.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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