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MikeAK

Just got a Range Rover

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Hi,

After about 2 years away from Landrover ownership, had several RR classics in the past, i have returned for some more punishment :)

I got a cheap P38 from an acquaintance who had basically given up on it. Usual P38 story of various electrical gremlins, being charged large sums of money by various "Landrover specialists" who just seemed to bodge and make thing worse.

Spent the weekend looking at and have got most of the electrical problems sorted, just an ABS and SRS warning lights to sort now. Engine also needs a new cam.

Hopefully a couple of weeks and I will be able to take it for an MOT.

Pictures not very good as not much space on the drive.

Mike 

 

RR1.jpg

RR2.jpg

RR3.jpg

RR4.jpg

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Nice!

How'd you work out it needs a new cam? :huh:

I can recommend the Piper stump-puller cam;

v8_camspec.jpg

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Thanks for the camshaft suggestion I'll have a look at that.

I found the cause of my remaining electrical problems. See connector pictures below. I think housings will clean up OK but some of the crimps are beyond cleaning.

Does anyone know what connectors these are, I think they are Tyco/Amphenol 070 Multilock. But would be nice to have it confirmed by someone who knows for sure.

Thanks

Mike

 

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20200706_223547.jpg

20200706_223541.jpg

20200706_223501.jpg

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Think you can probably save them if you pop them out of the connector and sit them in some contact cleaner for a while?

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I was derusting a trailer light 7 pin in vinegar couple of days ago, what surprised e was the non ferrous came up quite well after 2 or 3 hours, I left the thing in overnight for the steel screws and the non ferrous was worse again but worth a go?

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3 hours ago, elbekko said:

Think you can probably save them if you pop them out of the connector and sit them in some contact cleaner for a while?

^ Second that... and elbekko really knows a thing or two about drying out damp P38's :hysterical:

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6 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

Paging @PaulMc

 

As said, they're TE Connectivity/AMP (not Amphenol - they're a different company) 070 Multilock connectors.

The terminals don't look that bad, - that's just a bit of mild corrosion caused by dampness.

A soak in vinegar will remove that corrosion, followed by a good rinse in de-ionised water, and a thorough drying-out.

Use Silicon contact grease on the terminals to keep the corrosion at bay.

.

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Posted (edited)

Making some progress.

As suggested I popped out the crimps and have given them a good scrubbing with a toothbrush and vinegar, didn't have any de-ionised water but give them a good washing with contact cleaner. I will pack with silicone grease when I have finished fault finding. 

All problems gone now apart from one. I can't connect to any of the ECUs on the OBD II bus (diag connector 7 and 15). I thought this would be due to the corroded connector as signals go through it.

However that is not the case. Checking for continuity the K-line is open circuit between the diag connector ant the connector I have been looking at (C102). I put a temporary wire in to bypass the open cct and I can now connect to everything on that bus apart from HEVAC. Looking at the wiring diagram that suggests that the problem is at S214 (splice?) see pdf below. Although RAVE Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual show connector and earth locations it doesn't show splice locations (or at least mine doesn't). If anyone knows where that splice is, it will save me dismantling more of the dash than I need to looking for it.

While I had the temporary link on I read the ABS codes and the only fault is Right Front Wheel Sensor.

So it looks like the total cost of repairs for all the various electrical problems will be about £20 for a new sensor. The rest was just putting right various bodges and poor workmanship the previous owner had been charged £100sss for.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and help so far.

 

Mike

Diag CCT.pdf

Edited by MikeAK

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Could S213/4 just be in the OBD connector? That's my best guess. Otherwise probably just easier to run a new wire...

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Elbekko, unfortunately not there is only one wire on each terminal in the diag connector and they disappear up behind the dash. I suspect the spice will be in the middle for the loom to branch off to the HEVAC unit. so if I run a new wire I will have to get into there anyway.

I will just have to start digging into the dash when the weather picks up. I'm having to do this outside on the drive and rain has stopped play for today.

 

Mike

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1 hour ago, MikeAK said:

... Looking at the wiring diagram that suggests that the problem is at S214 (splice?) see pdf below. Although RAVE Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual show connector and earth locations it doesn't show splice locations (or at least mine doesn't). If anyone knows where that splice is, it will save me dismantling more of the dash than I need to looking for it. ...

I looked at a 1999 version of the ETM, this also fails to detail the splice positions.
However, I realised that the splice is shown in circuit between the Data Link Connector (OBD socket) and the BECM.
I then looked at the 'Harness routing', Section Z4, page 2, which shows the 'LH Body Wire Harness'. This shows the Harness visiting the positions of the OBD socket and the BECM.
The diagram suggests that looking in the dash area would be frustrating; rather look down the lower portion of the LH A pillar, along the floor, parallel to the door opening bottom sill to the bodyshell crossmember, then across the floor to the BECM.

It's only a suggestion; I haven't had to take the same journey 🙂

Regards.

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Iv'e found it!

The rain rain stopped for a while so I had another go. The splice is at the bottom of the lower dash adjacent to the RHS of the tunnel near the heater outlet.

The route the wires take is from the diag connector across the tunnel below/behind the heater (not sure how, didn't need to get in that deep) and emerges at the location in the pictures.

The L-line splice is also very corroded but just about hanging together, so that will get replaced as well. Started raining again so it's tomorrows job now.

Linked it all together with croc clip leads to try it and I can talk to all the ECUs now :)

Mike

Splice.jpg

Splice2.jpg

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Glue lined heat-shrink is your friend for re-covering that, as opposed to the limp wrap of electrical tape that Land Rover used!

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Had a look at the ABS Front Right Sensor today and it wasn't open circuit, measured about 990R at the plug on the inner wing. So plugged it back in and measured on the ECU connector same 990R. Measured all the others also at the ECU, all about the same value within 5R.

So must be a faulty ECU? Second hand one ordered from Ebay will see what happens with that fitted next week.

Mike

 

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Did you check if it wasn't just not fully pressed into the hub? Could be as simple as it not picking up the reluctor ring consistently.

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Unlikely to be the ECU. As @elbekko says, usually the sensor isn't seated properly. If it is, it could still be malfunctioning. You could try swapping left and right sensors and see if the fault stays or switches sides as well. ECU's are expensive, better make sure. 😉

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I did check that sensor was seated properly and it does seem to be.

The reason I suspect the ECU is that the fault reported is "Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit" but it isn't it measures the same as the other 3 wheel sensors. I measured this right at the ECU plug which also eliminates the wiring.

The fault is present at immediately the ignition is switched on and when cleared by Nanocom comes back immediately. If it was the sensor not seated properly and not seeing the reluctor ring the fault would not reappear until the vehicle was moving. At least that's my understanding of how it works, happy to be corrected by someone with more knowledge of the system though.

Already ordered a second hand ECU from Ebay. Only £12 including postage, so worth having as a spare even if not needed.

Mike

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Fair enough, that does sound like the ECU. Worth a try for that price anyway.

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Well replacement ECU arrived today, fitted it and it was exactly the same - ABS fault still present on dash and Nanocom reading fault as "Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit".

So I investigated PROPERLY this this time rather than blindly believing the diagnostic kit. The sensor still read approx 995R same as the other sensors but it turned out to have a partial short circuit to chassis on one wire. The resistance to chassis is constantly wandering between 200R ish to 1K ish. Removed sensor from axle and it disappears so it the sensor not the wiring. With the sensor connected but danging in the air to isolate it from chassis the fault can be cleared. New sensor ordered.

So when Nanocom says Open Circuit Sensor it really means Open circuit or short/leak to chassis or who knows what else.

Moral of the story. Don't blindly believe the fault message but take the time to investigate properly using the fault information as a pointer.

Mike.

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Fitted new sensor today, fault cleared and working correctly 😀

After taking it for a test drive I noticed a couple of drips of water on the drivers side tunnel so looks like I've got the dreaded leaking heater O rings. One of the blend motors is a bit sluggish as well so dash out next week to sort that.

Mike

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