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Any Tips On Levelling Out The Suspension On The Rr


fisha

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OK. I got my RR. It leaned down to the drivers side.

I fitted a complete new set of shocks and springs ( HD's from Paddocks ) . . . . it still leaned to the drivers side without anything in it.

I have swapped the front springs from side to side . . . it still leans.

I'm about to swap the rear . . but i suspect its not going to make much difference.

There is about a 1" difference of the arch to tyre length between the driver and passenger sides.

any good ideas / thoughts welcome on how to address it?

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EAS is not that hard if you just do a pressure based system, and its in the back of my mind to start collecting the bits . . . it would solve any issue of leaning or loading.

but until then, its going to annoy me a lot, so i had better figure out a spacer of some sort.

if the rear swap turns out to still lean, then any ideas on what is so heavy on the drivers side to cause it? ( apart from my **** in the seat)

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it shouldn't really.

you pump up each spring till it reaches the required height and maintain that pressure ( which is what the RR effectively does - except it constantly measures the height )

ignoring the compressor and valve setup( cause you would use a RR setup ) , you can easily get:

in line pressure sensors for each air bag ( ~$30 each )

a display to show the 4 readings at once ( ~£200 )

prd_sm_391.jpg

then all you need to do is have 4 switches ( 1 per corner ) which can either raise or lower the pressure in each bag by controlling the right valves in the valve block

So you load up your car, inflate the bags till you get the right gap between the wheels and arch, and then record each corners value and then manually adjust if one starts to change ( which it shouldn't really if the system is not leaking )

if thats not enough, then you can buy a more advanced system which will allow you to program in 3 height settings ( by the same process as above ) and then the system will automatically maintain the programmed pressure to keep what you've programmed in.... ( ~$800 )

prd_zm_131.jpg

or for the same price . . . yes, the same price ( $800 ) . . . you can get a system which reads the actual suspension height by means of 4 sensors with arms on them. You program in the height you want, and the system will add or remove air in the bags so that the height is maintained . . . .regardless of the weight in the vehicle, or the pressure in the airbags.

prd_sp_52.jpg

doesn't that setup sound familiar to a certain RR setup?

more investigation needed me thinks.

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Donald,

You could consider adding a couple of the Disco II spring isolators at the top of the springs. They add about 1/2".... :huh:

If you need some air susp parts, my LSE stil :rolleyes: l has all of the bits on it except the bladders.

OME Springs.... Luverley!

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Hi Donald

I had the same problem with the hybrid, did all of the same swapping etc nothing cured it. Did the same thing as FatBoy suggested and used RR rubber spring isolators,but put them on top and bottom of springs to give about an 1" lift.

Cheers

Steve

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its too early to go down the route of air suspension, but it brews in the back of my mind as a 'do-able' thing which would give a good, customisable suspension setup to rival the likes of the P38 system ( which I quite like )

as for the levels on the RR. It struck me that I dont have a spare wheel in the rear passenger corner. So i threw in a couple of Jewson's bags of sand ( that were lying on the driveway) into the little dipped section. Its levelled off a little, and it sits noticably more level when moving along.

I might throw a third in and see if that sorts it out.

cant argue with a bodge like that eh? :blink:

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Donald.

As you know I looked at this some time ago but didn't go any further as I was moving the project goalposts too often.

I drove the Yorkshire defender with the basic set up and was very inpressed. I have since found quite a few US sites that supply kits, where did you get that info & pictures?

My intention was to place a fixed small "bullseye" spirit level somewhere unobtrusive near the physical axle cross centre with the Rangie sitting on the bump stops to zero it to use as a reference, this may also be of some use for the coil problem, it's all too easy to bend a wing or spoiler and then things look off when they are really not.

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