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The time has come to change my old girl's chassis and i thought i would start a thread on here to document it/ask all of you good people for advice. I've got a loose plan in my head as to what and how i'm going to do everything which will include bushes, axle refurbs, clutch/DMF, fuel lines and brake lines. I'm going to go for a Shielder chassis, partly on cost but also because they're in stock and i would have to wait 6 weeks for a Richard's one. I also like the idea of the 2.5mm rails which will give more strength and longevity whilst hopefully not slowing me down too much.

First question - powder coat, raptor or T-wash and satin black? It's a silver truck so an exposed galv chassis will be too much i think.

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T wash & suitable primer vehicle gloss black chassis paint,  I was advised not to use powder coat, if it gets damage moisture can get under it. 

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Powder coat chips easily, can cause corrosion if moisture gets beneath it, and can peel off in large flakes if that happens. That shouldnt be a problem with a galv chassis, but ............

T wash and primer. I really like Bilt Hamber Etchweld, and use it for most things, then overcoat with paint of your choice, but NOT Hammerite or POR15 

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I've used Jotun jotumastic 90 epoxy mastic primer, then protega chassis paint.Whether it will be any good or not remains to be seen.

Por15 is only any good on metal with surface rust in my experience but it does stick to rust like the proverbial, not so well on smooth surfaces.

Mike

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For the dumb irons and rear cross member, I used an extra primer and Rustoleum stain black aerosols.  It looks bvery tidy.  For the rest, after a good wash or two and a month of exposure to the weather, I used Hammerite Underbody Shield, which I think is just the other name they have used for Underbody Seal.  It’s a bitumen/waxoil mix that is gooey for about a month and then dries to the touch, but can’t ever peel or flake, so it doesn’t chip at all.  You can remove it easily by scraping off the bulk and then using a solvent sourced rag.  It’s not as pretty as a shiny, hard paint,  it works well and looks smart enough when applied with a roller.

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I placed the order for the Shielder chassis from Terrain Tech last night so no going back now!

Re T-Wash, does that stuff stain driveways? I've had a hard enough time persuading Mrs Paime that this is a good idea in the first place without destroying the driveway in the process.

38 minutes ago, Snagger said:

For the rest, after a good wash or two and a month of exposure to the weather, I used Hammerite Underbody Shield, which I think is just the other name they have used for Underbody Seal.

I've used this stuff before and thought it was great. Might go for some more on the areas where stonechips might cause problems like the dumb irons and gearbox cross member. 

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Hi, T wash is a mild acid, so probably would clean and eventually dissolve a driveway. I have a stack of old cardboard - if I am going to do anything mucky (and I remember to) I put a sheet of that down, then you can bin it.  Also an old roasting tin under the bit where you are working will catch a lot, and let you reuse it. Maybe do something like that? If you brush the T wash on you shouldn't spill terribly much.  

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It was more the washing of the T-Wash off the chassis after i'm done that i was thinking about but then again i'm not sure where i've picked that up from!

14 hours ago, smallfry said:

I really like Bilt Hamber Etchweld, and use it for most things, then overcoat with paint of your choice, but NOT Hammerite or POR15 

Is that this stuff here: https://www.bilthamber.com/etchweld ? My knowledge of coatings is pretty limited and i'm terrified i get it wrong and over-paint with an incompatible top coat causing crazing or a lack of adhesion. Are there any dual systems from the same manufacturer out there?

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Just completed the chassis rebuild on my 300TDi 90, covered as it happened on Landyzone. I degreased the chassis, T-Wash, etch primer, Frosts Extreme Chassis Black (satin) and finally a coting of black Waxoyl. Didn't notice any damage to the concrete driveway after using the T-Wash but then again I did wash it thoroughly afterwards.

By the way, the black marks on the wall are NOT overspray but exhaust soot as a result of parking the vehicle in exactly the same spot for the past 20-years!

 

 

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7 hours ago, paime said:

It was more the washing of the T-Wash off the chassis after i'm done that i was thinking about but then again i'm not sure where i've picked that up from!

Is that this stuff here: https://www.bilthamber.com/etchweld ? My knowledge of coatings is pretty limited and i'm terrified i get it wrong and over-paint with an incompatible top coat causing crazing or a lack of adhesion. Are there any dual systems from the same manufacturer out there?

I have not noticed any long term damage to the concrete hard standing after using T wash, but then I have always rinsed it off with a pressure washer and washed the concrete at the same time. I guess it might stain if left, but I dont really know.

Thats the stuff. Being a weld through primer, it can be used on things that get hot, like gearboxes and Rover V8 engines. I use it on all the welded joints on exhaust systems, and it seems to stay there. Used it on the beads and rear of alloy wheels after removing corrosion, and it lasts for years. Also as an etch primer on Land Rover alloy bodywork prior to painting with two pack or cellulose.

I spilt some on the plastic rear bumper of my van, and it is still there after a few years. It CAN be removed with cellulose thinners, but then so can most primers, and it can be overcoated with most types of paint. Chassis really needs to be overcoated with a "soft" paint and not Hammerite, POR15, or powder coat as in my experience they all chip easily

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I went through  this as well. Just leave it alone it will be fine. It's a galvanized chassis so leave it galvanized.  You can go through your life worrying someone might steal it  they steal them galvanized or not.

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Galvanising is great, but it’s not impervious.  Given the investment in replacing a chassis, both financial and time, it’s worth the extra investment of a further protective layer.  It’s worth waxing the interior, too.  I don’t think it makes much difference to thieves anymore - they’re targeting the tastiest Defenders as well.

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i'm going by the philisophy that the more (correct) paint and protection i can apply, the more difficult it will be more corrosion to set in. I'm also conscious that she's lasted 20 years with her on-galv 2mm barely-coated LR chassis so a galv one will surely last double that at which point diesel will probably be illegal!

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3 hours ago, paime said:

i'm going by the philisophy that the more (correct) paint and protection i can apply, the more difficult it will be more corrosion to set in. I'm also conscious that she's lasted 20 years with her on-galv 2mm barely-coated LR chassis so a galv one will surely last double that at which point diesel will probably be illegal!

Hopefully, alternatives will not be too expensive to retrofit by then!

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  • 2 weeks later...

A small update - the chassis has arrived from Terrain Tech! The delivery man almost had a heart attack getting it out the back of the lorry but it's now safely tucked away in the garage. Painting starts this weekend with a bit of luck and then i can start on stripping the 90 down.

20200805_124640.jpg

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Certainly decent packing, I collected mine from Marsland borrowed a friends trailer, I covered it with a tarp for the long drive home. 

unwrapped prior to unloading into my garage. 

post-20-0-41725500-1378230952_thumb.jpg

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The label tells me it's 350kg and it felt every gram of it. 

I'm still in 2 minds about how to paint it but i'm in touch with the guys at Bilt Hamber so i'm sure they'll keep me right.

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I applied the T-wash with a hand spray bottle, which allows a good coverage without wasting it. 2.5 litres did the lot on my 110, including all the YRM bits. Couple of essential bits of PPE are goggles and nitrile gloves. T-wash is phosporic acid an irritant, and will damage your eyes. after the metal darkens and almost drys off i rinsed with a hosepipe.

A few days later painted with galv primer grey then week later 2 coats (2 litres) of rustoleum 7300 satin black rollered on. For the hard to reach bits, some aerosol rustoleum.

 

Pete

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This weekend's update: Got the truck up on stands and started to take off the panhard rods, radius arms etc. Every nut has been a challenge so far and the angle grinder has had a few outings! Does anyone know of bolt sets I could buy for all these bits and pieces? I think YRM do them but they're stainless steel and i would worry about strength.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks folks, i'll check those out. Would there be any issue in using stainless steel for those bolts?

On another note, i was playing around with some photogrammetry over the weekend, mostly to remember how everything goes back together! 

I tried to embed the 3D model but couldn't get it working so the link is here: https://skfb.ly/6UtTq

Edited by paime
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