Retroanaconda Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Lots of them are 10.9 grade - so I'd stick with normal steel as well. Cheap to buy and easy enough to swap out when required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 I stuck with the original type bolts/nuts for all the running gear on my chassis change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 6 hours ago, paime said: Thanks folks, i'll check those out. Would there be any issue in using stainless steel for those bolts? On another note, i was playing around with some photogrammetry over the weekend, mostly to remember how everything goes back together! I tried to embed the 3D model but couldn't get it working so the link is here: https://skfb.ly/6UtTq What did you use to do the model with Paime? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 11, 2020 Author Share Posted August 11, 2020 Looks like mild steel it is then! Is there any way i can stop the b*ggers rusting all over my beautiful new chassis? 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: What did you use to do the model with Paime? It's a programme called Reality Capture (https://www.capturingreality.com/). It's really easy to use and free to make the models but you get charged for file exports. The fee is usually pretty minimal (around $4) but if you don't get it right first time it can be frustrating! I think there are some apps for Android and iOS as well but i've never used them so not sure how good they are. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 1 hour ago, paime said: Looks like mild steel it is then! Is there any way i can stop the b*ggers rusting Buy zinc plated ones ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Copper slip? Bilt Hamber UB ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 On 8/10/2020 at 6:00 PM, paime said: This weekend's update: Got the truck up on stands and started to take off the panhard rods, radius arms etc. Every nut has been a challenge so far and the angle grinder has had a few outings! Does anyone know of bolt sets I could buy for all these bits and pieces? I think YRM do them but they're stainless steel and i would worry about strength. I bought the paddocks bolt set (front and back) they are fine. Don't bother with the bush kits though.I bought the superpro bushes and have to say they were a breath of fresh air to fit. If they need to be changed then only the vice needs to be used to press them out. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 I like the look of the superpro stuff and looking forward to seeing what a difference new bushes will make. I don't think I've ever driven a defender that doesn't have wobbly steering. A small update for today - managed to get the front axle off including radius arms and drive shaft. Also thinking about commissioning a study entitled "Nylocs - Friend or Foe?" after the amount of blood, sweat and tears its taken to get some of the nuts off. Ps how heavy are axles??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 I fitted a set of Superpro bushes on my 110 to everywhere except dampers as they are on OME polybushes any way, it drives/rides & handles very well. You won't pick up the axle on your own with a assistant or crane/trolley jacks, they are very heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 1 hour ago, paime said: I like the look of the superpro stuff and looking forward to seeing what a difference new bushes will make. I don't think I've ever driven a defender that doesn't have wobbly steering. A small update for today - managed to get the front axle off including radius arms and drive shaft. Also thinking about commissioning a study entitled "Nylocs - Friend or Foe?" after the amount of blood, sweat and tears its taken to get some of the nuts off. Ps how heavy are axles??? Hmmm I can lift my coiled front axle onto my trailer but my mogs no bloody way regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 One end at a time is ok for the front axle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 15, 2020 Author Share Posted August 15, 2020 2 hours ago, Stellaghost said: Hmmm I can lift my coiled front axle onto my trailer but my mogs no bloody way regards Stephen Can I borrow you for getting the axles on the trailer and off to the blasters please?! Hoping to get the rear axle off tomorrow then the chassis painting can begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 36 minutes ago, paime said: Can I borrow you for getting the axles on the trailer and off to the blasters please You certainly could if I was a tad closer regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted August 15, 2020 Share Posted August 15, 2020 I took my wheels off, tried to manhandle the axles, gave up and put the wheels back on. Then found you can roll them around turn them over to paint and weld where necessary. Add an axle stand under the diff nose then chock the wheels and you're all set. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 (edited) Slow progress over the past couple of weeks. Got the rear axle pretty much stripped down today, just need to get the brake lines and ABS sensors out of the way then i'll need to somehow detach the A frame. This are fairly well seized up so not sure how it's going to go. On a different note, has anyone ever fitted these kits to their swivel housings: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LL1393BP ? Edit: Also, does anyone know where i can find new swivel pin housings? Mine are mostly knackered with the caliper bolt threads shot to pieces. All i can seem to find are LHD versions like this one: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=390528966579&category=42609&pm=1&ds=0&t=1597243119000&ver=0 Edited August 30, 2020 by paime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 Threads are easily repaired with a helicoil and the kits to do so aren’t expensive. Just watch out as caliper bolts are usually a fine thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Does anyone know if these will fit my RHD 90TD5 1999MY? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-90-110-Galvanised-O-S-Swivel-Pin-Housing-HRC2372/402358514480?hash=item5dae6fb330:g:4nAAAOSwUalfMqCB https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-90-110-N-S-Galvanised-Swivel-Pin-Housing-HRC1162/313179741459?hash=item48eaf79d13:g:GJAAAOSw8fRfMqDC I have ABS fitted but i don't know if that affects the swivel pin housing i need to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 I think the housings are the same and it’s just the swivel pin that changes. Ralph ( @western) will know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 that's what i'm hoping but all the diferent parts numbers for the swivel pin housings are quite confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 59 minutes ago, paime said: that's what i'm hoping but all the different parts numbers for the swivel pin housings are quite confusing. No mention of ABS brakes on the attached page. FTC2528 & FTC2529 are the latest numbers. later swivels have a bearing at the top instead of the rialco bronze bush. if you use later swiels you will need the correct top pins/bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Thanks for looking into that @western. The two parts i'm looking at are HRC2373 and HRC2574, are those of any use for a '99 TD5? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 HRC numbers are bare casting before machining, not LR part numbers. Use the numbers in the screen shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Perfect, thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paime Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 A small update for this week - finally managed to get the rear axle off the truck. What a nightmare it was. The castle nut on the rear a-frame ball joint was having none of it and after nearly 3 hours of trying i finally gave in and got the angle grinder out. Everything is booked in for blasting and painting now which will leave my garage clear for getting the chassis painted up. The next step after that is going to be putting my axles back on which means new bushes. I've read various opinions on here, but what would everyone recommend for every-day road use with a bit of gentle off-roading throught the winter? I don't need massive amounts of flex and i'm leaving towards the Superpro option. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 11, 2020 Share Posted September 11, 2020 I tried most bushes and am now back to genuine rubber. Mo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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