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Paime's 90 TD5 Chassis Swap


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I think you’ve probably got a mount slightly off somewhere on your new chassis, not unheard of sadly.

The chassis mount at the front of the seatbox should be slotted to allow fore/aft movement?

The body overhanging the rear crossmember by 5-10mm is normal on later vehicles with the moveable rail, often on one side but not the other!

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I've checked the old chassis and that front mount isn't slotted either so I think it should be fixed. Today I moved the rear tub back to lined up that mount and it looks better than I thought. Only about a 3mm overhang so nothing to worry about. I now have a better gap at the bottom of the doors but it reduces the higher up the door gap I measure by about 10mm. Any ideas how I might make it parallel? 

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If it's not parallel then undoing the hardtop/windscreen rail, and the wing fixings? and pulling the top of the bulkhead forward with some ratchet straps? Once you are happy with the gaps then pull up tight with the footwell plates and the wings.

As a guide i went for 6-8mm gap all round the door. A good indication was to shove a couple of 8mm bolts in the hinge side of each door top and bottom, then tighten the hinges up. It was more obvious then if the waistline/seams and the bottom of the door lined up.

 

Pete

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It’s slotted on all the ones I’ve seen, but hopefully you can work around that.

To set the door gaps parallel you adjust the height of the front of the tub and the rake of the bulkhead. With the tub fixed at the back and the bulkhead fixed at the bottom draw a string line tight down the line of the bulge in the body side and across the same point on the bulkhead. This will allow you to set the height of the front of the tub to match the bulkhead. Then adjust the rake of the bulkhead to make it parallel with the tub, so that the door gap is the same at the bottom and top hinge points.

The rest is done in the roof and screen.

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String method in use on my 88” a few years back. Door was in place here but you can set the height without it. This ensures that the barrel shape lines up right down the vehicle from the bulkhead, through the door and onto the tub.

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I've been trying to avoid it but I think the reality is I'm going to have to take the wings off and probably take the windscreen out as well. That string method looks ideal, thanks for the pointer. Might need to take a day off work for all this...

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1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said:

It’s slotted on all the ones I’ve seen, but hopefully you can work around that.

You can see them here on the new chassis, the old one was the same. 2001MY 90 TD5 and the chassis is a shielder one. Maybe it's a TD5 thing?

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4 hours ago, paime said:

I've been trying to avoid it but I think the reality is I'm going to have to take the wings off and probably take the windscreen out as well. That string method looks ideal, thanks for the pointer. Might need to take a day off work for all this...

Should be able to keep the wings on. Just keep the bolts loose? They're floppy enough they they'll move as needed. The windscreen can also stay in, I'd just slacken the row of 5 or 6 bolts along the top. 

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Ran some string down the tub tonight out of curiosity and sure enough I'm currently way out. I've already loosened off the front wing bolts and taken the footwell/chassis bolts out to let everything move. When I took those bolts out the brackets moved quite far forward so the holes in the chassis are covered by the brackets. That feels like a tomorrow problem though! Next up I'll slacken the wings along the tops and see if that helps the bulkhead move forward any.

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It’s a drastic measure but if it comes to it you can cut the bolt tube down on the bulkhead foot to gain some more distance in the door gap. I had to do that on my 88” because an outrigger was welded on c. 10mm out.

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1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said:

It’s a drastic measure but if it comes to it you can cut the bolt tube down on the bulkhead foot to gain some more distance in the door gap. I had to do that on my 88” because an outrigger was welded on c. 10mm out.

Luckily the new chassis outriggers don't have any tubes so I've got more room already. The trouble with doing that is the wing acts as a pivot and pushes the top of the bulkhead forward which closes the gap I'm trying to lengthen. Also, the chassis bulkhead brackets are already too far forward i think. I might have to drop new holes in those if I get everything else lined up ok.

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Retro is meaning the tubes on the bulkhead, not the chassis. Have you got the footwell side of the brackets loose too? A slight hole enlargement there makes for a surprising amount of movement at the chassis side.

One thing which might help is checking the bulkhead mounts are actually vertical, and not pulling the bulkhead one way when the bolts are tightened. 

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Just thought i'd check in with you Paime, see if we can offer any help or remote assistance, the weather has been reasonable for a couple of days. So much so i broke out a tin of lumpy green paint today. 🙂

Have you managed to get any ideas on the alignment of the bulkhead vs doors.

 

Pete

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