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On 8/15/2020 at 5:18 PM, western said:

I fitted a set of Superpro bushes on my 110 to everywhere except dampers as they are on OME polybushes any way, it drives/rides & handles very well.

You won't pick up the axle on your own with a assistant or crane/trolley jacks, they are very heavy.

I got a Discovery front axle and 110 Salisbury rear in and out of my Sankey alone and it was probably one of the more stupid things I’ve tried.  I didn’t injure myself, but that was probably more luck than the very shaky judgement!

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They were hugely expensive when I bought them, i had to do it an axle at a time BUT that is an obscene price !

At that price I'd reconsider the superpro which were the best of the poly bushes I tried.

Mo

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I'm quite tempted by Superpro mainly because they seem so much easier to fit. I don't have access to a press so I'm not sure if I could even fit rubber bushes myself.

This morning I finished stripping the remaining bits from the axles and welded a bit where I had been a bit too enthusiastic with a cutting disc. I then turned my attention to getting the old bushes out of the trailing arms etc. For the panhard rod, is there a metal insert I have to remove as well or is that lip part of the casting?

 

20200912_121656.jpg

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The metal insert is the outer part of the bush and needs to come out. Cut through it gently with a hacksaw and then knock it inwards and out with a chisel. 

Personally I think genuine bushes are fairly good value considering how long they last under normal conditions. 

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oe rubber bushes are good, but a absolute PITA to remove, that's why i'm a convert. The superpro went in easy and i know if i have to change them they will come out easy enough. I think the worst set of oe bushes to remove on my 110 were the rear A frame bushes which were triple sleeved. Not to mention the mess the rubber makes of everything you use on them.

Pete

P.S in you picture above they all have an outer sleeve that i can remember, they either need a press to remove in one or a deft hand with a hacksaw to cut two very close parallel cuts so you can use a chisel to tear a thin strip out. If you cut too far with the hacksaw you risk knackering the arms/rods.

Edited by pete3000
p.s
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2 hours ago, pete3000 said:

 

P.S in you picture above they all have an outer sleeve that i can remember, they either need a press to remove in one or a deft hand with a hacksaw to cut two very close parallel cuts so you can use a chisel to tear a thin strip out. If you cut too far with the hacksaw you risk knackering the arms/rods.

This was my next question and I had visions of cutting away only to realise there was never a metal sleeve to begin with.

If i go OE then I might also finally have an excuse to buy a press at long last.

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24 minutes ago, paime said:

 

 I might also finally have an excuse to buy a press at long last.

You will be suprised at how useful a press will be well worth having in your arsenal of tools regards Stephen

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Managed to get the bushes out of the panhard rod and trailing arms today but abandoned the radius arms. The first couple came out exactly as described but the last 2 were an absolute nightmare. First pic is the first sleeve, the second pic is the last one. It had pretty much welded itself to the surrounding metal and took a lot of bashing and swearing.

 

20200913_142929.jpg

20200913_161737.jpg

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i'm getting a little confused with my polybush purchase and can't find mid-production TD5 kits. Everything is either up to '93 or '02 to '07. Will the '02 to '07 kit fit my 1999 TD5? I'm not sure what the main changes were.

 

Edit: Ignore that, i think the 1999 TD5's have the wider radius arms so will go for that.

Edited by paime
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For DIY, any of the offerings that all come out of the same factory in China are fine.

Go with at least 20T, and as wide a bed as you can afford.

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2 hours ago, paime said:

i'm getting a little confused with my polybush purchase and can't find mid-production TD5 kits. Everything is either up to '93 or '02 to '07. Will the '02 to '07 kit fit my 1999 TD5? I'm not sure what the main changes were.

 

Edit: Ignore that, i think the 1999 TD5's have the wider radius arms so will go for that.

You need the '93 to '02 set.

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Some more progress: axles, radius arms, trailing arms and panhard rod are all off to get blasted and painted so I've got more room for the new chassis. 2 coats of Bilt Hambet Etchweld are on and im going to use a rattle can for the third as there are quite a few places where a brush won't reach. Epoxy mastic goes on after this then hopefully the axles will arrive back from the painters.

 

IMG-20200916-WA0010.jpeg

20200917_111845.jpg

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I'm a little bit worried as there appears to be a slight twist in the chassis which you can just make out in those pics. Will it all settle into something more level when the engine is in and weight is applied?

 

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On 9/17/2020 at 10:43 PM, paime said:

I'm a little bit worried as there appears to be a slight twist in the chassis which you can just make out in those pics. Will it all settle into something more level when the engine is in and weight is applied?

 

As above if it is, then send it back. You’ll have no end of problems getting bodywork to line up if it’s twisted. It’s bad enough with a straight chassis. 
 

easy enough to measure. Get it supported evenly on a flat floor, then measure the corners and check that it’s all level relative to other parts if it. 
 

if you can’t get it all level, it’s twisted. 

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Went out this morning and measured everything I could. Its not helped by by axle stands also not being level but im seeing a difference of between 3 and 5mm across the whole thing. I think that should be fine but will I see fitment difficulties?

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