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Don’t forget that galvanising works electrically.  When the steel tries to rust, the zinc gives up ions or electrons (not sure which) and oxidises instead.  The maritime industry bolt big blocks of zinc to hulls and oil rig structures - they don’t coat the whole vessel or structure.  A screw hole will not rust away.  But a dollop of grease or waxoil in the hole before fitting the screw will help preserve it even better.

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That’s what I did, drilled holes to fit the genuine pipe/cable clips and touched them up with paint before fitting.

As they’re pretty much all drilled in the top face of the chassis rail the scope for rot is minimal.

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4 hours ago, landroversforever said:

You can get stick on ones, but I’ve never found anything that sticks on actually stay permanently attached. 

I wouldn’t worry too much about drilling, using something like a stainless tek screw with some copper grease shouldn’t cause any issues. 

I used some stainless hex head tek screws & stainless rubber lined P clips to hold the brake pipes. 

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9 hours ago, western said:

I used some stainless hex head tek screws & stainless rubber lined P clips to hold the brake pipes. 

Plastic clips or rubber lined stainless are great.  I’m wary of unlined metal clips on copper or cunifer pipes, not only because of fretting and wear, but bimetallic corrosion. 

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36 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Why don't you want to drill the chassis?

Rust, rust and more rust! I've never had a good experience with coatings and bare steel in the past and the last thing I want to do is introduce the prospect of the chassis starting to rust prematurely. 

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Smothered with waxoyl, and using zinced/stainless fittings will mean it lasts at the very minimum 25 years...

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Your galvanised chassis already has threaded sockets on it, quite a few.  These have been drilled after galvanising, or if drilled before, then they have been re-tapped afterwards to remove the zinc that fouls the thread, and they are just bare steel.  So, drilling a few additional holes for mounting pipe brackets is not going to significantly impact your chassis life, especially if protection measures above are taken.

Mike

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A bit more progress today - managed to get the front axle built up and the wheels back on. Hopefully tomorrow i'll be able to get the radius arms, springs and dampers in place and then i'll have a rolling chassis at last. A couple of questions/observations from today:

1 - Broadly speaking, what are my next steps from here? I'm thinking brake lines (need to stop being a chicken and drill the chassis for the clips), then take out the engine, replace the clutch, pop it on the new chassis then lift off the old body.

2 - i was almost in tears this morning. I've spent a good bit of time finessing my lovely new gaitors for the swivels including bonding the rubber in place which was an absolute nightmare. When i came to fit the whole assembly to the axle i realised that i couldn't get the bolts in past the new gaitor. Because it's bonded in place, after an hour or so of chin scratching i came to the sad realisation that the only way i could get my swivels on was to cut off my new gaitors. Classic Britpart strikes again!

 

20201024_090138.jpg

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I drilled my new galv chassis as the list of clips was growing, the one area i did manage to avoid was the front by the bumper by running the brake line to the bulkhead and over the top by the heater.

clips I fitted were brake pipe singles, and doubles 6mm hole, doubles along the o/s chassis rail to hole brake line and breather from rear axle. Twin diesel clips 7mm hole? along top of o/s rail to sedimentor.

2x twin battery pipe clips on n/s rail in front of seatbox. (only had to drill 1x hole as 1 already in front lhs outrigger.

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I'd echo what western says, lay the brake lines in to the rear especially, also fuel lines (110 more so) and breathers. The one big and heavy lump which is easiest done without the engine in is the power steering box drop arm and bolts, This should also allow you to lay the power steering pipes along the front of the chassis rail inner face. If you havent already fit the bumpstops and the fuel tank and sender.

Pete

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"Classic Britpart strikes again!"

Not the case. These gaitors have been around for many years (I bought a set 20-years ago after having a bad time with the leather ones) long before they were marketed / branded by BP (was it Bailcast?) and if I recall correctly they were exactly the same. Just because BP market something it doesn't mean that they design & manufacture it. My fitting instructions are long gone but did you check you could bond the gaitors before fitting the bolts? 

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20 hours ago, Litch said:

"Classic Britpart strikes again!"

Not the case. These gaitors have been around for many years (I bought a set 20-years ago after having a bad time with the leather ones) long before they were marketed / branded by BP (was it Bailcast?) and if I recall correctly they were exactly the same. Just because BP market something it doesn't mean that they design & manufacture it. My fitting instructions are long gone but did you check you could bond the gaitors before fitting the bolts? 

Yes, Bailcast.  I have them on my RRC.  I think they’re pretty good,

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18 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Surely the gaitor would squash enough to get the bolts in? 

Not really, but what does work is to pull the neck of the gaiter up to the narrowest part of the swivel housing and push it to one side.  It is very awkward to get the bolts in with the gaiters on, though - they’re really meant to be fitted to an assembled axle.  It would be a handy comment at the beginning of the instructions.

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