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Paime's 90 TD5 Chassis Swap


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I haven’t a diagram but:

5 pairs across the rear crossmember.
2 bolts into the tube outriggers each side behind the doors.
2 Bulkhead bolts 
2 bolts from seat box to chassis (front edge of box)
2 bolts. 1 either side of radiator from wing to chassis.

Cant remember the TD5 seatbelt bracket layout... possibly two bolts to the bracket from the centre-most seatbelt sockets, to the Aframe crossmember. 

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Have you done anything regards the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets? or reusing the old ones.  I got a set of these, primered and painted black.

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-bulkhead-to-chassis-brackets-per-pair-land-rover-defender/

With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/

Pete

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11 hours ago, western said:

If you look at page 7 of my chassis change post there is a diagram of body to chassis bolts. 

Most are the same as a 90 except for the body tubular outriggers. 

Are there also fixings on the two mounts in red below? These are the ones that are confusing me slightly. 

8 hours ago, pete3000 said:

Have you done anything regards the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets? or reusing the old ones.  I got a set of these, primered and painted black.

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-bulkhead-to-chassis-brackets-per-pair-land-rover-defender/

With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/

Pete

I'm going to use the original brackets but all new zinc bolts if Terrain Tech ever bother to ship them, that is! I did think about new brackets but I've spent way more than I expected to on the chassis swap so have to draw the line somewhere.

 

1609433834.jpg

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"With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/"

 

I bought one of those kits when I did my chassis earlier this year but I wouldn't bother again. Normally I just cut isolating gaskets from a sheet of plastic and it has always worked very well but this time I thought I would use the YRM rubber ones for convenience. That they are pre-cut is great but after that they were no better as they don't stick to Waxoyled surfaces (of course) and drop off just before the two surfaces made contact, being flexible rubber were then more awkward to slide into position.

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9 hours ago, paime said:

Are there also fixings on the two mounts in red below? These are the ones that are confusing me slightly. 

I'm going to use the original brackets but all new zinc bolts if Terrain Tech ever bother to ship them, that is! I did think about new brackets but I've spent way more than I expected to on the chassis swap so have to draw the line somewhere.

 

1609433834.jpg

90 chassis is a bit different to the 110 but those red bits I’ve mentioned above, just not sure on the td5 seatbelt bracket setup there. 

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I'll be undoing all the bolts on Sunday ready for a Monday lift so should find out how it all comes apart then.

I've also noticed my new chassis doesn't have bolt holes for the middle exhaust hanger either so may need to think of something clever for that.

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Are you using grease on all your fixings as you assemble?

Makes me shudder when I watch videos of people fitting a new chassis etc and although they use new fixings they all go together dry.

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1 hour ago, Litch said:

Are you using grease on all your fixings as you assemble?

Makes me shudder when I watch videos of people fitting a new chassis etc and although they use new fixings they all go together dry.

Copper slip on most things, particularly if they're going through the chassis. I'm hoping to never have to take anything off ever again but somehow I doubt I'll be that lucky!

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I was always a great fan of Copper Grease but in recent years have moved across to Moly Grease as I have found it doesn't dry out like Copper Grease does. Also I work on the assumption that I will probably take it apart at some time in the future. When I did my chassis last year (seems strange to now be calling 2020 "last year" ) I used 2x500G tubs of Moly Grease and that doesn't include greasing the new TRE's, props etc or assembling large items such as axles that were simply rolled from one chassis to another.

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Tough day today. Managed to get all the chassis/body bolts off (thanks @landroversforeverand @westernfor the handy diagrams and explanations) and then had the task of lifting the body. Thought I'd use an engine crane in the back door with strops under the cappings and hooked to the rear bulkhead. Started the lift and it quickly became apparent that the front bulkhead is very weighty so it was all off balance. Went to plan B and put the brake through the drivers window but couldn't find a place to attach the strops to that wouldn't cause damage. Had a tantrum then gave up. Will try again at the weekend if I've stopped huffing!

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I lifted my body to swap the chassis. I used the experience of @western above but eventually decided on a scaffold. The details are on page 3 of my thread here. The main lift points were either side of the bulkhead, a scaffold pole under the tub just forward of the rear wheels and at the rear door (just in case).

I think I went a bit overboard with the scaffold but I really didn't know what to expect and also how long it would be before the new chassis went back underneath.

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Thanks guys, much appreciated. @Retroanaconda it's difficult to see from the images in your thread but am i right in saying you lifted from the footwell - chassis brackets with a spreader bar? 

This is the other method i'm thinking of and i think the bulkhead is lifted from the A-posts but again, difficult to see: 

 

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A good day today, finally managed to get the old chassis out from underneath the body. Heres's how i did it:

Rope looped through the rear tub capping holes in the middle of the rear tub. Engine crane in through the back door, lifting up the tub with the rope then sliding in 3 bits of wood under the tub which rested on a stack of breeze blocks.

Next I used a home made spreader bar attached to the bulkhead chassis brackets. Lifted the front up and slid some wood under the two rails then rested on breeze blocks again.

It was a bit of a faff getting the chassis out as I had to use a few jacks to get it off the axle stands then lower it down. All sorted now though.

I need to roll in the new chassis tomorrow but its really tough to steer. Would it help if I disconnected the steering box? Any other suggestions?

 

20210109_123009.jpg

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My wheels are pretty much impossible so move around. The steering box is fairly empty of fluid so maybe that's causing it? Either that or my lockblock in the driveway is too sticky.

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