landroversforever 865 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I haven’t a diagram but: 5 pairs across the rear crossmember. 2 bolts into the tube outriggers each side behind the doors. 2 Bulkhead bolts 2 bolts from seat box to chassis (front edge of box) 2 bolts. 1 either side of radiator from wing to chassis. Cant remember the TD5 seatbelt bracket layout... possibly two bolts to the bracket from the centre-most seatbelt sockets, to the Aframe crossmember. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 If you look at page 7 of my chassis change post there is a diagram of body to chassis bolts. Most are the same as a 90 except for the body tubular outriggers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pete3000 42 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Have you done anything regards the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets? or reusing the old ones. I got a set of these, primered and painted black. https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-bulkhead-to-chassis-brackets-per-pair-land-rover-defender/ With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/ Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 11 hours ago, western said: If you look at page 7 of my chassis change post there is a diagram of body to chassis bolts. Most are the same as a 90 except for the body tubular outriggers. Are there also fixings on the two mounts in red below? These are the ones that are confusing me slightly. 8 hours ago, pete3000 said: Have you done anything regards the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets? or reusing the old ones. I got a set of these, primered and painted black. https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-galvanised-bulkhead-to-chassis-brackets-per-pair-land-rover-defender/ With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/ Pete I'm going to use the original brackets but all new zinc bolts if Terrain Tech ever bother to ship them, that is! I did think about new brackets but I've spent way more than I expected to on the chassis swap so have to draw the line somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litch 37 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 "With both options comes with the nuts/bolts and the nut plate. Also one of these may be useful to stop the rot between the ally/Steel https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-to-chassis-rubber-gasket-kit-lr-defender-90-pre-td5-2/" I bought one of those kits when I did my chassis earlier this year but I wouldn't bother again. Normally I just cut isolating gaskets from a sheet of plastic and it has always worked very well but this time I thought I would use the YRM rubber ones for convenience. That they are pre-cut is great but after that they were no better as they don't stick to Waxoyled surfaces (of course) and drop off just before the two surfaces made contact, being flexible rubber were then more awkward to slide into position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Quote Are there also fixings on the two mounts in red below? These are the ones that are confusing me slightly. Not 100% sure on a 90, but a look at Ian's photo's in his 90 rebuild thread should help Quote Link to post Share on other sites
landroversforever 865 Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 9 hours ago, paime said: Are there also fixings on the two mounts in red below? These are the ones that are confusing me slightly. I'm going to use the original brackets but all new zinc bolts if Terrain Tech ever bother to ship them, that is! I did think about new brackets but I've spent way more than I expected to on the chassis swap so have to draw the line somewhere. 90 chassis is a bit different to the 110 but those red bits I’ve mentioned above, just not sure on the td5 seatbelt bracket setup there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 I'll be undoing all the bolts on Sunday ready for a Monday lift so should find out how it all comes apart then. I've also noticed my new chassis doesn't have bolt holes for the middle exhaust hanger either so may need to think of something clever for that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litch 37 Posted January 1 Share Posted January 1 Are you using grease on all your fixings as you assemble? Makes me shudder when I watch videos of people fitting a new chassis etc and although they use new fixings they all go together dry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted January 1 Author Share Posted January 1 1 hour ago, Litch said: Are you using grease on all your fixings as you assemble? Makes me shudder when I watch videos of people fitting a new chassis etc and although they use new fixings they all go together dry. Copper slip on most things, particularly if they're going through the chassis. I'm hoping to never have to take anything off ever again but somehow I doubt I'll be that lucky! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litch 37 Posted January 2 Share Posted January 2 I was always a great fan of Copper Grease but in recent years have moved across to Moly Grease as I have found it doesn't dry out like Copper Grease does. Also I work on the assumption that I will probably take it apart at some time in the future. When I did my chassis last year (seems strange to now be calling 2020 "last year" ) I used 2x500G tubs of Moly Grease and that doesn't include greasing the new TRE's, props etc or assembling large items such as axles that were simply rolled from one chassis to another. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 Tough day today. Managed to get all the chassis/body bolts off (thanks @landroversforeverand @westernfor the handy diagrams and explanations) and then had the task of lifting the body. Thought I'd use an engine crane in the back door with strops under the cappings and hooked to the rear bulkhead. Started the lift and it quickly became apparent that the front bulkhead is very weighty so it was all off balance. Went to plan B and put the brake through the drivers window but couldn't find a place to attach the strops to that wouldn't cause damage. Had a tantrum then gave up. Will try again at the weekend if I've stopped huffing! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Ref lifting the body see my extract from my chassis change thread in Tech Archive, https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/89594-how-to-remove-a-complete-110-body-from-the-chassis/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peaklander 348 Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I lifted my body to swap the chassis. I used the experience of @western above but eventually decided on a scaffold. The details are on page 3 of my thread here. The main lift points were either side of the bulkhead, a scaffold pole under the tub just forward of the rear wheels and at the rear door (just in case). I think I went a bit overboard with the scaffold but I really didn't know what to expect and also how long it would be before the new chassis went back underneath. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Retroanaconda 742 Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 I did similar with a frame over the bulkhead to lift from. There is a thread on here somewhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Thanks guys, much appreciated. @Retroanaconda it's difficult to see from the images in your thread but am i right in saying you lifted from the footwell - chassis brackets with a spreader bar? This is the other method i'm thinking of and i think the bulkhead is lifted from the A-posts but again, difficult to see: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Retroanaconda 742 Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Yes, a spreader bar and then wire rope down to and looped around both bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 A good day today, finally managed to get the old chassis out from underneath the body. Heres's how i did it: Rope looped through the rear tub capping holes in the middle of the rear tub. Engine crane in through the back door, lifting up the tub with the rope then sliding in 3 bits of wood under the tub which rested on a stack of breeze blocks. Next I used a home made spreader bar attached to the bulkhead chassis brackets. Lifted the front up and slid some wood under the two rails then rested on breeze blocks again. It was a bit of a faff getting the chassis out as I had to use a few jacks to get it off the axle stands then lower it down. All sorted now though. I need to roll in the new chassis tomorrow but its really tough to steer. Would it help if I disconnected the steering box? Any other suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stellaghost 481 Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Yes it would help if you disconnected the steering box, good progress regards Stephen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
landroversforever 865 Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 I know I've got a bit of extra leverage, but mine with the wheels and tyres on I can push/pull the wheels round to steer it pretty easily? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bowie69 1,442 Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Kicking the steering wheels normally works, even on a fully built vehicle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paime 81 Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 My wheels are pretty much impossible so move around. The steering box is fairly empty of fluid so maybe that's causing it? Either that or my lockblock in the driveway is too sticky. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bowie69 1,442 Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Kick them while rolling... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 I used Stainless Tek screws for my fuel & brake line P clips. been fine in the last 7 years since my chassis change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
landroversforever 865 Posted Saturday at 11:55 PM Share Posted Saturday at 11:55 PM Shouts to me that something isn't right... It shouldn't be that hard to turn it? Especially on a TD5 with swivel bearings top and bottom I'd have thought it would be even easier than mine with the Railko bush at the top. My steering box is also dry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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