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200TDI into LWB SIII 109 - fit or sh#t?


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Well at the moment I made some steps, My 200di is mated to the series box and resting on it's engine supports. now I want to have the engine tick over and run before I'l invest in things like timingchain replacement and all the other bits and pieces.


Slowly but steady, but hey I'm not complaining. It's the first time I've seen and engine going out and in a car..... and I did it myself and alone using make shift tools!

 

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Well done.  The belt isn’t too bad a job, but unfortunately you do need to remove the water pump on the 200, so make sure you get that gasket too.  I’d get the idler pulley, too, as the bearing does wear and affect belt alignment, and you probably don’t know when that’s was replaced.

 

Zeus Engineering, who make lovely stainless calliper pistons for disc brakes LRs, and a decent but relatively frugal disc brake conversion for Series LRs, also make (or used to make) a timing gear system for the Tdi.  It’s supposed to mean you never have to service the timing system again, but it’s reputed to be very noisy and have a tendency to shear the alignment dowel off the cam shaft, so I’d stick with the original system and just buy decent quality belts (Dayco are the OEM).

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  • 1 month later...

Engine is in for a first fitting.

Last main thing to sort out is the alternator. Given that I'd love to keep the disco alternator and not have PAS pump in place I'm looking for a way to get the pullys lined up and find a suitable belt.
When placing the alternator it lines up with the first pully on the crankshaft but as I need to have the waterpump inline as well I need the alternator to move forward 22 millimeter.

I've been reading on several solutions using a series mount and a alu carved block and rotating the frontplate of the alternator. But looking a the first picture I tried to imagine having the alternator in this position and just move it forward 22mm..

That would mean I need a few rings  at thee front of the top mount and grind of a small piece of the back (the white tape in the second picture).

Now I've lost my confidence after seeing everyone using complex solutions while this seems so simple........  what have I missed? Must be something there? Don't belts that long exist? 



 image.thumb.png.205feb81d71692c9ed8b5733bf1c62de.png
image.thumb.png.7944eb63f01f957a4ba828fda2f5190a.png

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The reason most fit the alternator in the standard Series position, discarding that entire Discovery cradle, is to make space for the intercooler and air filter piping to turbo and manifold.  I had the same issue, and would have left the Discovery cradle if I could have, but like others, I used the SIII bracket and spacers.

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Don’t forget that SIIIs, which probably form the bulk of Tdi conversions, have a heater unit on top of the left foot well, where SI and SII refits tend to put the air filter.  That means the air filter typically gets installed to the front, and so more air piping will be there, especially if using 200 manifolds and turbo.

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3 hours ago, Snagger said:

Don’t forget that SIIIs, which probably form the bulk of Tdi conversions, have a heater unit on top of the left foot well, where SI and SII refits tend to put the air filter.  That means the air filter typically gets installed to the front, and so more air piping will be there, especially if using 200 manifolds and turbo.

yes I'm without the turbo and LHD, the heater on the right bulkhead (but considering removing that and just looping the heater waterpipes from out to in in the block.

ok ok, I've got a 3mm walled box of 40*80 mm lying around. Will see if I can build a spacer with that. Hopefully can source proper length bolts somewhere near here.

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4 hours ago, Anderzander said:

It seems better packaged and neater all round to me. On my 80 it helps clear the exhaust, engine mount, and chassis rail. 
 

 

 

Is this the spacer block with series mouning? (and rotated frontplate on 200tdi alternator? ) 

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working on it :) already changed the alternator front plate, now cutting up a 40mm*80mm thick walled box section, drill holes and go look for
70mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolts (2x)
130mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolt (1x)

Hoping that thereafter the belt that was driving the PAS pump is a match.... (or maybe the belt from the series block)

 

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If it hasn’t fired in a while, it’ll be a little smokey until it settles back in - stale fuel and a little sludge or glazing in the fuel system to purge, likewise the oil system, and maybe a little light bore rusting to be polished off, rings being slightly sticky...

You will almost certainly have to tweak the pump settings, too, now that the turbo is gone; it would have been calibrated for more oxygen, so you will be running rich at elevated revs and high throttle settings.  Good to see so much progress, though.

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