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richards chassis and the wiring loom

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can anybody tell me what they have done with the chassis loom on a richards chassis ? iv put a couple through a land rover chassis but im struggling with this one .i think there is a v shaped strengthening plate were the gearbox mounts are i was wondering how you guys got on ?

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Did my Richards chassis just a couple of months ago.

Yes it can catch on the internal strengthening webs and even worse, can run along the bottom of the chassis so the draw-wire runs under the web but the gap is too small for the harness so you have to pull the draw-wire out and start over again. In the end I found the trick and did it in 5-minutes flat (see below).

Copied and pasted from my rebuild thread on another forum, also included a bit about grommets for the cable holes:-

Chassis wiring holes (Richards Chassis).
The LR chassis has just four of the large cable holes (two of which are used) however the Richards Chassis has eight (on each side one of these is hidden inside the bulkhead outrigger). The holes containing the wiring harness are sealed with the correct cable grommet but to prevent muck getting inside the others it makes sense to seal them (they are 37mm diameter if I recall correctly). I found I already had four LR plastic blanking plugs of the correct size (can’t remember when / why I bought them or even the part number) but blanking grommets off Ebay are cheap enough and have done the job perfectly on the other two.

Feeding wiring harness through the chassis.
Ordered a new rear wiring harness off Autosparks at the same time as ordering the chassis and am glad I did it so early as delivery was over ten weeks (this was long before COVID).
I found that the best thing to push through the chassis was some T&E cable, it is flexible but rigid enough to push and if you fold back the end will ride over the internal sleeves.
I also fed in an auxiliary harness of my own making for any circuits that may be required anytime in the future, includes a decent sized independent earth wire to supplement the standard one (I am not relying on any non-cabled earth connections).

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I've just done my 110 RC wiring loom pull through, i used Aldi galv fencing wire with a loop bent at the ends, wrap all the loose wire ends with PVC to the draw wire make a smooth profile, i started at the front and pulled to the back. Just be careful as you go over the rear axle shock mounts as the loom wont pass under the stiffening tubes, you have to go over the bottom two.

I ended up passing a short length of hooked galv wire back down the chassis to draw the loop over the shock mount tubes as it went under the first time. as someone above says it the loom sticks if this is the case.



Edited by pete3000
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9 hours ago, steve b said:

 I always run the loom down the outside of the chassis ...


Ive done that too: better for fault-finding, fewer sharp edges, easier to alter/modify, etc etc. What's not to like?

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As others have also suggested, I ran my down the outside of the chassis having wrapped it in plastic conduit to give it some added protection. It's secured to the chassis with rubberised P-clips and tech screws. No complaints, saved the headache of pulling it through and it's easier to add/modify later.

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