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P38 - Never had one, what should I look for...


Tetsu0san

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Hi all

My partner is looking for a new car and after trying out two (hopefully just bad examples, but my word they were dreadful) Shogun Sport's she's decided that she likes the idea of a P38.

Me being me I don't want a petrol (yeah yeah, I know....) so I'm looking out for a nice dirty diesel. I believe they're all the M52 (I think that's the engine, same as in the 5 series BMW's?) which I know reasonably well as I had a 525tds a few years ago, so that's not too bad.

I know Defender's and Discovery's pretty well but I've no experience of the P38's. What are they like? What are their problems? Do they suffer with rust? Any other pointers?

And does anyone know of a good one in Oxfordshire (or surrounding counties)?

Cheers

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If it must be a diesel, get a manual. But really, just get a V8.

No real rust problems except for the spare wheel well. The electronics are their main weak point. Don't buy one without air suspension, it'll most likely have been badly looked after (bar a few examples).

I would've linked you to the tech pages on rangerovers.net, but looks like that's another website/forum that's turned into a dumpster fire after being bought by VerticalScope.

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To be honest they are mixed bag.

One the one hand I think they are arguably the best Range Rover's ever built. They take all the best bits of the classic and address all the weak points about the design.

The p38 is also the rarest Range Rover with the shortest production run to date.

On the flip side, they are the first generation of having lots of computer controlled devices. And sadly this can make them somewhat fickle. If you buy one, I'd suggest that you also invest in a diagnostic tool also. Being able to clear faults or change settings is an essential part of owning one.

 

Arguably I'd say the diesel is the more troublesome engine. Hot start issues, poor performance, cracked heads among other issues. And when equipped with the auto box, they are very sluggish indeed. A remap/chip helps I believe, but never to the V8 levels of performance.

Also most diesels are low spec models.

 

Rust isn't really an issue with the p38. The most common issues will be the air suspension. Now here I am personally torn. I love the concept of the air suspension and it is indeed a unique feature to the p38 model. But the air suspension has some major design compromises in it. On my own example, I eventually lost the battle with the air suspension and have fitted coils. This saddens me a little, but ultimately I think it has improved the vehicle in most key areas.

Other issues will generally be electrical in nature.

The 4.6's are always good spec if you want the toys and nice interior. They are auto only, but use a stronger gearbox. The 4.0 litre is somewhat rarer and usually lower spec. But could be had with the 5 speed manual. Which has an appeal all of its own.

The 2.5 diesel can also be had with the manual, although many say they don't like how they drive, due to the power delivery of the BMW engine. The manual diesel is likely a much better performer however and would be the most fuel efficient variant. The diesel auto is the same as the 4.0 litre, although I think the diesel tends to eat the gearboxes a little more often. The auto diesel is also unlikely to be massively more fuel efficient than the manual petrol.

 

Overall I'd say they are awesome vehicles, just be prepared to know what you are getting yourself into. Given the choice of a Disco2 or a p38, I believe the p38 is a much nicer and superior vehicle.

 

If you plan to off road, the post 1999 model year has 4 wheel traction control and is highly capable. Earlier models only have rear wheel traction control (and I believe some early base models had none at all).

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I have been buying a few L322's recently and have regularly been looking at the MOT history. That should be your first stop and that will give a good indication if it has been properly maintained. I have found that there are some cars with extensive failures and others only have things like bulbs and tyres. The minor or no failure vehicles are the ones you want to look at.

I would consider the V8, never had a Diesel one but have had 3 V8 4.6's and they are very smooth cars. Check the front drivers floor carpet to see if it is wet. That will determine if the BECM is likely to be sitting in water which causes some of the electronic problems. Having broken about 6 or 7 of them I have never found corrosion issues mostly V8 engine problems and electronics.

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Thanks people.

I wanted a diesel because of the fuel economy. I know they're not exactly economic but a diesel would be somewhat better, however the other half is not too bothered and as it's her who is going to be using it then I'm not overly bothered now. An LPG converted one might be nice though...

I'll have to go and have a look at some and see what they're actually like.

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23 minutes ago, Tetsu0san said:

Thanks people.

I wanted a diesel because of the fuel economy. I know they're not exactly economic but a diesel would be somewhat better, however the other half is not too bothered and as it's her who is going to be using it then I'm not overly bothered now. An LPG converted one might be nice though...

I'll have to go and have a look at some and see what they're actually like.

I have had two that have been LPG'd. The current one I have just done (before the valeters knackered the BECM) and is certainly very economic by comparison. However I have just sold my TD6 L322 which was returning for me 21mpg ( I have a very heavy right foot) however the new owner os getting 30mpg around and about and 37mpg on a run. I am using a TDV8 L322 at the moment and can achieve 25mpg on a trip even with a heavy right foot.

It might be worth considering the L322 the prices have come down. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

So, I bought one. First one I saw too. I know I know, never buy the first one you see but this was really nice, well maintained, and the bloke was only selling it because it belonged to his wife who'd died in April and he had no use for it. it was her pride and joy and she'd owned it for 8 years, which sounded like the most genuine reason for a sale so I figured it was worth the risk.

It's a diesel, slow, but everything works (except aircon). No water in the carpets, good tyres, drives nicely, and in very clean and tidy condition.

All I need to do now is to get another fob working on it as one out of the two that came with it doesn't work. I know it's easy to program a replacement remote central locking fob so I'll see what I can do about that as time goes on.

 

Forum.jpg

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Looks good to me. On the key front you might be lucky and it just be a battery, but you will need to get your head round the EKA code and syncing keys as a starter for ten, check out the handbook and make sure you have the code to hand. If you haven't speak nicely to the original supplying dealer (if known, often a sticker /card in the handbook) they may be able to help, it worked for me.  New keys can be coded but they need a speciallist to match the code from the working key. AC in mine needed a replacement condenser, only the early model is available now but they can be made to fit the later ones, of course you may be lucky and a sniff off gas will sort it.

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If you frequent facebook, there is a chap called Paul Kemp (known as Tig) he's pretty much the guru on what you need to look for. Including the dreaded engine eating itself. He's a very helpful chap.  

Alternatively Jason Brokenshire at Penryn Garage (Falmouth) or Pete Broom at Beacon Motors in Ottery St Mary - also absolute P38 Guru's

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, Merican said:

I just purchased a diesel.. no rust new engine from e36 tdi and trans and a expensive tuning chip.  I just need to put new bags. Also has a bigger diesel pump. I am super excited sitting 6 years. Cranked on first turn.

IMG-20200825-WA0004.jpeg

Couldn't say no for 1500 euros

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  • 7 months later...

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