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Currently replacing my doors and managed to overlook the felt in the channels. Seems from a trawl through google its available as individual pieces as left & right sets, or in off-the-roll on a per-metre basis.

The sets come with/without shims. If I already have doors (which I do) can I assume I have shims? Does it matter if the felt is in pieces, or is it better as continuous off-the-roll?

Can anyone who's replaced these parts give me some advice? And also suggest anything else 'consumable' I might need in addition?

(fyi I have new plastic channels for both doors, the inner & outer lower horizontal seals* and new scissors mechs for raising/lowering. *The lower outer rubber seal is a different shape from the original as fitted currently - part number is correct though, matching it to an upgraded part - but its not as wide as the old one, is this correct? )

 

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The felt channel & the plastic outer channel are fixed to the doors with small countersunk head cross point or Phillips screws, if you look at the existing channels you should see the screw heads. 

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Thanks Ralph - that makes sense - I'd not located them yet as I've not started taking the old one apart. As I'm currently using the van I thought I could build up most of the new doors with the new bits then do a quick swap of the glass, lock, gubbins and door card.

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Buy the correct genuine Land Rover felt runners. They will be pre drilled for the countersunk screws in the correct locations. Generic stuff isn’t and is more aimed at the series 3 door top market.

There is a long thin aluminium strip which is fitted on rear of rear vertical runner from memory, never really worked out what this shims function is, but I have always refitted it. The main shims are 2-3 small pieces of alloy which adjust the runner inwards to take up the slack in the window. These small shims are easily made as they are ridiculously expensive last time I looked.

if you are fitting out late one piece “Puma” type doors the upper horizontal piece is not drilled and screwed as you will drill out the top of the door. These top runners are generally bonded with black sikaflex. 
Also the factory often didn’t screw the runners with all the predrilled holes, only top middle and bottom holes on the vertical runners.

The newer type lower glass seal is different and often doesn’t fit as well as the older one. no idea why it changed.

Use the black sikaflex to fill the gaps in the corners either side of the above seal where the outer skin curves to prevent some of the water ingress.

If using Puma doors the new type foam water shedders are far better than the old polythene type and go a long way towards preventing water ingress into the vehicle.

Again on Puma doors the later revised additional lower door seal is excellent and does actually seal unlike pre 2012 “seals” 

Buy new door handles - the fixings often are seized and spin the inserts in the old ones.

Edited by oneandtwo
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9 hours ago, oneandtwo said:

Buy the correct genuine Land Rover felt runners. They will be pre drilled for the countersunk screws in the correct locations. Generic stuff isn’t and is more aimed at the series 3 door top market.

There is a long thin aluminium strip which is fitted on rear of rear vertical runner from memory, never really worked out what this shims function is, but I have always refitted it. The main shims are 2-3 small pieces of alloy which adjust the runner inwards to take up the slack in the window. These small shims are easily made as they are ridiculously expensive last time I looked.

if you are fitting out late one piece “Puma” type doors the upper horizontal piece is not drilled and screwed as you will drill out the top of the door. These top runners are generally bonded with black sikaflex. 
Also the factory often didn’t screw the runners with all the predrilled holes, only top middle and bottom holes on the vertical runners.

The newer type lower glass seal is different and often doesn’t fit as well as the older one. no idea why it changed.

Use the black sikaflex to fill the gaps in the corners either side of the above seal where the outer skin curves to prevent some of the water ingress.

If using Puma doors the new type foam water shedders are far better than the old polythene type and go a long way towards preventing water ingress into the vehicle.

Again on Puma doors the later revised additional lower door seal is excellent and does actually seal unlike pre 2012 “seals” 

Buy new door handles - the fixings often are seized and spin the inserts in the old ones.

Thats some great information - thank you VERY much. Particularly the handles advice - its often these small things that mess you about! 

Just looking at hinge gaskets on Ebay and note there are earlier/later gaskets shaped to corresponding hinges type (earlier have more square corners, later have a rounded corner). I have existing earlier hinges currently on the 110, but the replacement hinges I've got are the later type - so am I right to assume the hinges are interchangeable (with appropriate gaskets) as in - the hole will all align - its just the shape that has changed in the later type?

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3 hours ago, Jocklandjohn said:

I have existing earlier hinges currently on the 110, but the replacement hinges I've got are the later type - so am I right to assume the hinges are interchangeable (with appropriate gaskets) as in - the hole will all align - its just the shape that has changed in the later type?

Yep - same bolt pattern. Early ones have 5/16” UNF and later M8 bolts but as long as the nut plates match you’ll be fine.

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On 8/25/2020 at 1:06 AM, oneandtwo said:

Buy the correct genuine Land Rover felt runners. They will be pre drilled for the countersunk screws in the correct locations. Generic stuff isn’t and is more aimed at the series 3 door top market.

There is a long thin aluminium strip which is fitted on rear of rear vertical runner from memory, never really worked out what this shims function is, but I have always refitted it. The main shims are 2-3 small pieces of alloy which adjust the runner inwards to take up the slack in the window. These small shims are easily made as they are ridiculously expensive last time I looked.

if you are fitting out late one piece “Puma” type doors the upper horizontal piece is not drilled and screwed as you will drill out the top of the door. These top runners are generally bonded with black sikaflex. 
Also the factory often didn’t screw the runners with all the predrilled holes, only top middle and bottom holes on the vertical runners.

The newer type lower glass seal is different and often doesn’t fit as well as the older one. no idea why it changed.

Use the black sikaflex to fill the gaps in the corners either side of the above seal where the outer skin curves to prevent some of the water ingress.

If using Puma doors the new type foam water shedders are far better than the old polythene type and go a long way towards preventing water ingress into the vehicle.

Again on Puma doors the later revised additional lower door seal is excellent and does actually seal unlike pre 2012 “seals” 

Buy new door handles - the fixings often are seized and spin the inserts in the old ones.

Got various felt bits & packers etc (and new door handles!) . I've removed the door card and now contemplating the interior of the door and have one *simple* question:

It *looks* complicated but as far as I can determine the inner metal plate (that sits behind the door card) 'carries' the majority of the gubbins for both the window winder mechanism and the locking components. The plate is held on with several bolts.

It seems that if I release the screws in the door edge holding the lock assembly and disconnect the two 'wires' that attach to the lock at the handle the whole plot will lift out with the metal plate and can be placed back into the new door with minimal buggeration.

Is this correct?

I dont want to start taking the locking assembly apart only to find I didn't have to!

 

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There are three rods to unclip. One at the lock, one at the handle inside and one going up to the locking button. If you shine a torch on them you will see how to prise the clips off these rods. The metal carrier does carry everything but that includes the glass. You need to undo the two bolts at the bottom of the glass (one shown in the second pic) and ideally lift the glass up towards the top of the door and hold it there using another par of hands or duct tape over the top, whilst then removing the metal carrier.

 

if the door is off the vehicle then it's easier with the glass v gravity.

 

IMG_1354.thumb.jpeg.a5c4c56d677cc34083accaa980eb44a7.jpeg

IMG_1358.thumb.jpeg.423b8851df8fb444b9fc0fede9d02006.jpeg

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1 minute ago, Peaklander said:

There are three rods to unclip. One at the lock, one at the handle inside and one going up to the locking button. If you shine a torch on them you will see how to prise the clips off these rods. The metal carrier does carry everything but that includes the glass. You need to undo the two bolts at the bottom of the glass (one shown in the second pic) and ideally lift the glass up towards the top of the door and hold it there using another par of hands or duct tape over the top, whilst then removing the metal carrier.

 

if the door is off the vehicle then it's easier with the glass v gravity.

 

IMG_1354.thumb.jpeg.a5c4c56d677cc34083accaa980eb44a7.jpeg

IMG_1358.thumb.jpeg.423b8851df8fb444b9fc0fede9d02006.jpeg

Excellent thank you. It looks quite complex and daunting but once I;d given it some thought it looked like those rods & clips were the key - thanks for that!

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