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Replacing the Steering Wheel, ran into an issue


Arnie91

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Well I wouldn't be an expert but it's probably just tight on the splines, as it looks like the outer  holes are threaded I would just make a simple puller, bar, big centre bolt and small holes to fix to the hub, if you haven't got any welding or threading equipment probably get away with a nut under the bar depending on clearance. 

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Put the nut back on a few turns, then whack the boss from behind with a hammer, or put the wheel back on and give it a good yanking about.

It is just tight on the splines, nothing else holding it in place.

You put the nut on so you don't smack yourself in the face with the wheel/boss ;) 

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Thanks for the suggestions. 

 

There was no nut on actually, the old wheel was attached via those small hex screws and a center cap covering this threaded bolt. 

 

Old owner says to use a spider type puller, so ill look into that. 

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7 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

No nut?

Did you realise the previous owner had a death wish? 

Quick release steering wheel, just when you aren't expecting it....

I used to know someone that basically did this. His car was stolen and recovered - this was early nineties and an old car, so it didn't have much security. He hit on the idea of taking the steering wheel off at night and taking it into the house. Except he got careless and didn't tighten it up properly, and one day the inevitable happened. He somehow avoided crashing and stopped messing with the wheel after that.

Although the same guy also used to take vehicles out of gear when going downhill "to save fuel". He'd once let a heavily loaded transit minibus run away on an autobahn in Germany, to the point he didn't dare touch the brakes and had to just let it roll and hope for the best - top speed achieved is unknown as it was well off the top of the transit's speedo, but well north of 100mph. In a 1970's minibus... He was still doing it when I knew him. No idea if he's still alive...

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1 hour ago, geoffbeaumont said:

Although the same guy also used to take vehicles out of gear when going downhill "to save fuel".

Fun fact - doing that almost certainly uses more fuel, especially in anything with an ECU.

During engine braking the ECU knows it doesn't need to put any fuel in at all and shuts off the injectors, whereas to keep the engine idling in neutral requires fuel.

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Fun fact - doing that almost certainly uses more fuel, especially in anything with an ECU.

During engine braking the ECU knows it doesn't need to put any fuel in at all and shuts off the injectors, whereas to keep the engine idling in neutral requires fuel.

I've often wondered about this. Does that mean that technically the engine isn't running as there's no power stroke but rather just turning over as a result of the connected drivetrain being driven by the wheels?

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17 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Fun fact - doing that almost certainly uses more fuel, especially in anything with an ECU.

During engine braking the ECU knows it doesn't need to put any fuel in at all and shuts off the injectors, whereas to keep the engine idling in neutral requires fuel.

All the vehicles he had been/was driving would have been carb fueled, so it possible did save a tiny amount of fuel. Definitely not enough to be worth risking anyone's life for, though... :ph34r:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

 

Im still having issues taking off the wheel. The puller kit I have doesnt match the bolt on the wheel, also, theres no holes or room for two additional bolts to form some kind of lock to push the wheel off

I bought this kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N9B0KJE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any tips? I really need to get a wheel on before some work booked in! 

 

 

 

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Can you just bolt that plate to the boss with the bolts that the steering wheel was attached with? Then use the big bolt in the middle to push against the shaft.

Alternatively a regular pulley puller with two or three arms would probably be easier.

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3 hours ago, elbekko said:

Can you just bolt that plate to the boss with the bolts that the steering wheel was attached with? Then use the big bolt in the middle to push against the shaft.

Alternatively a regular pulley puller with two or three arms would probably be easier.

The hex screws in the boss are so small i double I could get a serious piece of metal to do the job, ill grab some of those arm puller things 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/9/2020 at 7:20 AM, elbekko said:

Can you just bolt that plate to the boss with the bolts that the steering wheel was attached with? Then use the big bolt in the middle to push against the shaft.

Alternatively a regular pulley puller with two or three arms would probably be easier.

I did get the old bos off with the 3 arm puller, it popped off nicely. Now I have an issue with Optimil's quick release steering boss. The two locking pins are not setting into the base and hence the wheel can just be pulled off...

IMG_20200919_143539.jpg

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7 hours ago, Arnie91 said:

I did get the old bos off with the 3 arm puller, it popped off nicely. Now I have an issue with Optimil's quick release steering boss. The two locking pins are not setting into the base and hence the wheel can just be pulled off...

IMG_20200919_143539.jpg

You have some thing stopping the faces mating, screws are too thick or a plate. The Optimil boss is a great bit of kit especially with the anti-theft unit.

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3 hours ago, landroversforever said:

I agree with L19MUD, if it went on either way you'd end up with it on upside down when straight ahead.

 

They have three pins to locate it to the boss so it will only go on one way. The locking tabs are opposite each other but they will only locate the tabs if the two sections can fit flat together.

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