Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Guys could do with some help 1987 200tdi from defender never had a problem before but it’s been sat up on drive for 4 months now. Started today no problems as been on trickle charge. But, I now have no hot air from heater but more importantly it’s overheating.. any ideas ?? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 There isn't enough water in the system to reach the heater which sits above the engine. It is overheating because there isn't enough water. May just need topping up, or you may have a further issue such as split hose, hole in rad, blown head gasket, split heater matrix, water pump seal, core plug etc etc. If no mayo looking oil in filler cap, top water up and run till you can see where it's escaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Thanks for quick reply no leaks anywhere and no Mayo.. can I remove thermostat to eliminate that possibility?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Have you checked the coolant level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 You can, but it’s not good for the engine in the long term. But both problems together point at something else other than the thermostat. Low coolant level was a very good suggestion and well worth checking, as it may be too low for the pump to work, and allowing steam to build up in the head and give high temperatures. It could also be a vapour lock, but that is unlikely to lead to overheating on that engine. Take a look at the fuel gauge and temperature gauge and see if they’re both indicating high, especially when you turn the dash lights on. If so, then the gauge casings aren’t earthing to the bulkhead properly and are over reading. Checking the rad hose temperatures will also help clarify whether the gauge is being sensible or not (be careful on the top hose - they can get scalding hot). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Coolant level was ok this morning when gauge was just entering red, I’m pretty sure all hoses were still cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 1 minute ago, Snagger said: You can, but it’s not good for the engine in the long term. But both problems together point at something else other than the thermostat. Low coolant level was a very good suggestion and well worth checking, as it may be too low for the pump to work, and allowing steam to build up in the head and give high temperatures. It could also be a vapour lock, but that is unlikely to lead to overheating on that engine. Take a look at the fuel gauge and temperature gauge and see if they’re both indicating high, especially when you turn the dash lights on. If so, then the gauge casings aren’t earthing to the bulkhead properly and are over reading. Checking the rad hose temperatures will also help clarify whether the gauge is being sensible or not (be careful on the top hose - they can get scalding hot). I have had all gauges in and out recently. Fuel level sits approx halfway which is probably correct, temp as said goes slowly (10mins ish ) upto the red. Other gauge is bat volt I think . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 5 minutes ago, Snagger said: You can, but it’s not good for the engine in the long term. But both problems together point at something else other than the thermostat. Low coolant level was a very good suggestion and well worth checking, as it may be too low for the pump to work, and allowing steam to build up in the head and give high temperatures. It could also be a vapour lock, but that is unlikely to lead to overheating on that engine. Take a look at the fuel gauge and temperature gauge and see if they’re both indicating high, especially when you turn the dash lights on. If so, then the gauge casings aren’t earthing to the bulkhead properly and are over reading. Checking the rad hose temperatures will also help clarify whether the gauge is being sensible or not (be careful on the top hose - they can get scalding hot). So can I take thermostat out and keep topping up til full? Would that guarantee water getting everywhere it needs to ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 34 minutes ago, Chambo110 said: I have had all gauges in and out recently. make sure the U bracket that holds the gauges in place is NOT touching the spade terminals on the gauges, [effectively shorting it out] if it does touch the gauge will read full deflection regardless of what is happening at the sender, take the header tank cap off & radiator filler plug, top up the rad to full, refit the plug,top up the header tank to the correct level, run engine so any trapped air can escape via the expansion tank, let the engine fully warm up, it'll take a while, Works for my 200Tdi, the heater matrix is always having coolant flowed through so that shouldn't cause a air lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Ok so topped up checked for leaks.. all good took dash binnacle out yet again.. no U things touching anything they shouldn’t However, when I remove the earth, the needle stays at top. For the amount of time engine been running there’s no way it should be anywhere near up there. Even when engine off, but ignition on number 2 (dash lights on) the needle stays at top. am I correct in thinking there has to be an earth from back of temp gauge? Pretty sure , but not 100%, I did try a new wire direct to earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Each gauge should have a daisy chain earth wire to each of the centre long stud, so you should have the gauge. U clamp, earth wire, shakeproof washer, circular knurled edge thumb nut, the earth wire the connects into the earth multi bullet connector behind the gauges. maybe your temp gauge has had its day. & needs replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Is there a way of checking it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 only by putting it across a battery or subsituting another known working gauge. this might help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Without going back outside to look,,, is there 2 green wires going into terminals on back then the earth goes to the big screw and held as you said with the thumb screw nut 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 the plain green is the ignition switched 12v fused feed the green/blue trace is from the temp sender unit, plain black is earth, would be worth doing a continuity check on the sender to gauge wire disconnect from both items for the test, hopefully it will be fine, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Does sound like a duff guage. The best thing to do initially is get the heater working so you know that coolant is being circulated. Ensure the settings are set on hot then physically check that the lever on top of the heater box is pushed all the way across towards the nearside of the vehicle. Then check for coolant reaching the matrix by taking the hose of to check. Once you have confirmed coolant is in the matrix and the controls are set to allow air to pass over the matrix, go for a short drive and you should have warm air coming through. If this solves your apparent overheating problem then it was coolant not circulating. If it doesn't but you have nice warm air then get yourself a new guage and matched sender. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 Appreciate the help chaps ill check continuity tomorrow. now I think of it I didn’t notice the fan coming on at all. Only did a couple of short 15 min drives but each time but temp gauge hit roof. If it was “really” that hot then fan should of gone on. As said it was all fine 4 ish months back, I’m 99% sure fan works ok, seems a little suspect that it’s gone a bit wobbly since I had dash in n out several times I have since drained water and refilled. And warm air does come into cab.. so I’m guessing gauge problems as you guys say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 This is a link to my heater cable & flap setting info, it's called 'defender heater checks' 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 35 minutes ago, western said: This is a link to my heater cable & flap setting info, it's called 'defender heater checks' Been there done that.. very helpful and a great write up. That was beginning of summer job 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 2 hours ago, western said: only by putting it across a battery or subsituting another known working gauge. this might help Ohh didn’t see the video... love a vid or pic. just been nosing through some posts ref oil temp and pressure gauges aswell. More jobs to do 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 That's good, cheers for the feedback, at least you can rule that bit out, if the gauge turns out to be faulty, a good replacement is the VDO Vision temp gauge & matching sender, I have these exact items on my defender spec 200Tdi. it actually responds to the thermostat opening & shows the reading in degrees rather than just a mark. temp gauge https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-water-temperature-gauge-310010002 matched sender for a Defender spec 200Tdi https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-water-temperature-sender-5-8-unf-thread-323801001008 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 30 minutes ago, western said: That's good, cheers for the feedback, at least you can rule that bit out, if the gauge turns out to be faulty, a good replacement is the VDO Vision temp gauge & matching sender, I have these exact items on my defender spec 200Tdi. it actually responds to the thermostat opening & shows the reading in degrees rather than just a mark. temp gauge https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-water-temperature-gauge-310010002 matched sender for a Defender spec 200Tdi https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-water-temperature-sender-5-8-unf-thread-323801001008 You probably won’t talk to me anymore but could I use something like these on eBay 383713011104 I like the digital and needle reading . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 It's your vehicle & you have to live with it, so if those are what you want, I can't stop you, but I think the constantly moving numbers might be a bit distracting when night driving, though there maybe a easy option to switch the digi display off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 2 minutes ago, western said: It's your vehicle & you have to live with it, so if those are what you want, I can't stop you, but I think the constantly moving numbers might be a bit distracting when night driving, though there maybe a easy option to switch the digi display off. I’m thinking maybe keep dash behind the wheel original. Fuel, water,battery. Maybe these new gauges in my centre raptor dash ?? Oil pressure, temp and boost psi ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 in my main dash is Speedo/rev counter/coolant temp/fuel. in my dash top pod is 2 x voltmeter for winch & vehicle batteies/oil temp/oil pressure, in a single pod at screen pillar is a psi boost gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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