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Freelander 1 TD4 Clutch connector won't stay connected

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If it's not one thing it's another.

Finished putting everything together after sorting out the turbo ready for test drive. Wiggle gear lever to make sure it's in neutral. Hand on key ready to start. Depress clutch pedal and there's a thump and the peddle hits the floor. Lift peddle up with foot and try to depress again and it's solid. Quick look under the bonnet and I see the push fit connection between the master and slave has popped out.

Reconnect, depress peddle, thump, peddle to floor, lift and solid, check under bonnet.. Rinse and repeat.

Both sides of the connector look fine and are clean. When I connect them they feel fully home and the plastic ring is out of the way and isn't disengaging the internal clip. Master and slave are LUK parts and new, so should work together.

Annoying :angry:

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I'll grab a picture tomorrow and post.

The master has a male fitting with a securing lip around it:



The slave end has a barrel to accept the male. Inside the barrel is a ring of small tangs pointing inward that should grab the male lip when inserted.

There is a plastic collar (not shown on the above picture) around the top of the male that is pressed down in to the connector to hold the tangs aside when disconnecting.

It "should" just push in and lock until the plastic collar is used to disconnect it. This particular union takes but a small wiggle for the thing to unclip.

Rave says only this:

1. Fit clutch master cylinder to bulkhead and
rotate anti-clockwise to secure.
2. Connect clutch master cylinder push rod to
clutch pedal.
3. Clean fluid pipe connection.
4. Connect clutch fluid pipe.
5. Fit fluid pipe to clips.

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You're correct. Picture 1 is the resting state after it has just leapt out.

When it is fully inserted there is probably a third of the white plastic collar showing. It matches our other freelander visually when it is engaged.

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Took a chance that the fitting was compression and reusable, and removed it from the slave.

The tangs are on a strip that is inserted into a groove in the barrel. A bit of fiddling with picks and it came out. The tangs didn't appear to be protruding enough, so adjusted them to what I think is a sensible angle and took a couple of pictures to help anyone else who comes across this problem.




Going to refit now and see how it goes.

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