HoSS Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 What's the best thing do you chaps think to preserve / prolong the life of leaf springs? I have the opportunity during the rebuild to dismantle them if needed. 1. Dismantle, sand-blast and epoxy paint each leaf. 2. Sand blast exterior, epoxy and squirt oil into the gaps after. 3. Do nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Gut instinct says that epoxy/epoxy faces in the interleaf zone isn't going to be successful, I would think that hard etch/anti rust and eventual oiling would be a better sliding combination. The top, bottom and sides can get painted with what ever when clean and dry. I remember leather jackets on some series to keep the sand and cr*p out. I think the right primer and oil/maintenance will be be the thing in the interleaf faces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Leaf springs don't really rust through to failure, unless you seriously neglect them for 40 years. So, as far as paint goes, if aesthetics aren't a consideration, then don't bother. Oiling between the leaves works well, and will resist the main corrosion risk point, such as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 What does oiling do when used in sandy conditions? Can it turn in to grinding paste? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 In a normal leaf pack, I've yet to see them produce enough of a gap to let anything in. Either way, stuff wears quickly in sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share Posted October 2, 2020 My 3 leaf rear pack has massive gaps its more like a parabolic, the front more like an LR one. I'm tempted to do plan 1 on the rear and 2 on the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 8 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Leaf springs don't really rust through to failure, unless you seriously neglect them for 40 years. Must admit I have not touched my springs and I have owned the S1 for 40 years! Normal off road and on road work has kept them looking OK. My previous barn find S1 was completely knackered though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 Yep, I reckon they mostly fail through lack of use. Oil between the leaves helps to give a cushier ride, I find, and helps stop corrosion when laid up for extended periods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 Rover's instructions were to smear the leaves with graphite grease when re-assembling - and it seems to have worked well while the stuff was still there. Gaiters or binding may help keep it there. The advantage of graphite is that it leaves a residue on the leaves - so I suppose some modern lubricant working on the same lines could be better - but none springs to mind. Otherwise cleaning the mud off the sides, jacking the vehicle up and spraying from the sides may help. I've had good results dribbling a line of oil on top of the top leaf and letting it drain down the sides and between the leaves when I've been in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 39 minutes ago, secondjeremy said: some modern lubricant working on the same lines could be better - but none springs to mind. Molybdenum disulphide grease operates very similarly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 What about Copaslip or is that a different temp range and far more expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 Copper is hard, and work hardens, so should never be used where things are moving, or will increase wear significantly. It is an anti-sieze for bolts, pins etc only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 3, 2020 Share Posted October 3, 2020 4 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Molybdenum disulphide grease operates very similarly. The readily available source for this is swivel grease. 16 hours ago, missingsid said: What does oiling do when used in sandy conditions? Can it turn in to grinding paste? Yes it can, and that's precisely the action needed. Anyone who has ground valve seats in a cylinder head should be able to confirm that when abrasive grit is mixed with grease the grit rapidly moves away from the point of highest pressure, between the seat on the valve and the seat in the head. In a multi-leaf spring the grease and grit excluded from between the leaves will collect on the outside faces, where it will intercept dust and grit being washed over the spring by road spray. To preserve the 'carapace' don't pressure wash the coating off the spring. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Ah interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 Interesting one on the copperslip, Geoffery Croker #12 He is taking springs apart that weren't that long done and copperslip was used, might be of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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