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Trouble is its also related to fuelling, so if yours is fuelled differently to Ralph then I dont think you can compare the wategate directly. 
 

Personally I would look at rotating your boost pin in the pump to increase fuelling on boost. The deeper the conical part of the pin that points forward the more fuel you will add. Black smoke under boost is bad so back it off if that happens. 

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24 minutes ago, western said:

I will have to look & take a measurement tomorrow.

this attached cropped from my engine rebuild thread.

WP_20171104_17_04_46_Pro.thumb.jpg.6fae4db47dc1f50d0943548f74554705.jpg

Ah ok . I may have a few more turns to reach that 

ill  check tomorrow 

thank you 

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It needs more fuel chucking though it, so as Richard has said pull the diaphragm and move the cone so the steepest bit faces forwards. 

 

Dont worry about EGTs yet, you wont overly affect them until you mess with the max filling screw on the back of the pump.

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41 minutes ago, reb78 said:

Trouble is its also related to fuelling, so if yours is fuelled differently to Ralph then I dont think you can compare the wategate directly. 
 

Personally I would look at rotating your boost pin in the pump to increase fuelling on boost. The deeper the conical part of the pin that points forward the more fuel you will add. Black smoke under boost is bad so back it off if that happens. 

Good point.. need to confirm boost gauge working properly and giving correct readings first 

will do that in morning 

cheers 👍

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3 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said:

It needs more fuel chucking though it, so as Richard has said pull the diaphragm and move the cone so the steepest bit faces forwards. 

 

Dont worry about EGTs yet, you wont overly affect them until you mess with the max filling screw on the back of the pump.

I’ve not got the cone shaped pin anymore, I have steggys pin and spacer ring 

 

I do panic about blowing things up.. it’s been sat on drive long enough while I repair and tart it up.. I really don’t wanna be rebuilding an engine. 😂

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58 minutes ago, Chambo110 said:

I’ve not got the cone shaped pin anymore, I have steggys pin and spacer ring 

 

I do panic about blowing things up.. it’s been sat on drive long enough while I repair and tart it up.. I really don’t wanna be rebuilding an engine. 😂

Christ, you paid his prices!!! 

 

If I was you, pull the diaphragm out, the plastic collar (mines in long term storage in the hedge out the front of the house) and then move the throttle lever to the full loud position and see if the little pin shoots out in the hole. If it does then something is amiss somewhere. If it doesnt, that's why it's not going as well as you would like.

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24 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said:

Christ, you paid his prices!!! 

 

If I was you, pull the diaphragm out, the plastic collar (mines in long term storage in the hedge out the front of the house) and then move the throttle lever to the full loud position and see if the little pin shoots out in the hole. If it does then something is amiss somewhere. If it doesnt, that's why it's not going as well as you would like.

Ooops ? Was I robbed then ?

 

I took plastic spacer out and put in one of the lose mysterious safe places ??

I know the little pin your on about. I pulled diaphragm out a couple days ago. Then took throttle linkage off to see if the baby pin moved by hand .. it did

didnt think to try moving the throttle lever 🙈

if it moves by hand I’m assuming it WILL move with the lever ?? Yay or nay ?

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Have you got the old pin still? Try putting that back in with it facing the front of the vehicle so the fuel pins gets most travel. Then see how it goes. If it solves your issues to will know it is the boost pin setup is what you need to play around with and the preload of that. 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, Jon W said:

Have you got the old pin still? Try putting that back in with it facing the front of the vehicle so the fuel pins gets most travel. Then see how it goes. If it solves your issues to will know it is the boost pin setup is what you need to play around with and the preload of that. 

 

 

Jon .. eeerrr not sure.. I’ll check tomorrow 

 

reb .. yep cut out facing forward 

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In fact.. the little baby pin that rides on the boost pin must be working as when I removed diaphragm to check the baby pin was moving I can see a line in the smear of red grease that’s supplied with the boost pin 

make sense ?

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2 minutes ago, reb78 said:

Weird. So your fuelling is already set to more than standard. 
 

what was your boost when u started fiddling? 

I done 1 full twist of the rod and went for drive gauge was showing 9 I think 

done another 2 full twists test drive showed 10

2 more twists and still showing 10.

if I Rev and accelerate hard it may go to 11 for a split second

thats as far as I have gone coz I bottled it in case engine blew up 😂

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Chambo,

You need to be accelerating hard when you setting the max boost pressure as you are setting maximum boost. Most of the time driving you won't be anywhere near it.

Stop mucking (with an F ) about with the control arm and get yourself a valve! It is soooooo much easier to adjust.

Lastly in the nicest possible way, if you don't understand what you are doing then do some research. Understand what boost is and what it does and how the boost compensation system works THEN you can make informed decisions yourself on what adjustments to make rather than asking and hoping. It really is quite simple !

Good luck with it 👍

Mo

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13 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Chambo,

You need to be accelerating hard when you setting the max boost pressure as you are setting maximum boost. Most of the time driving you won't be anywhere near it.

Stop mucking (with an F ) about with the control arm and get yourself a valve! It is soooooo much easier to adjust.

Lastly in the nicest possible way, if you don't understand what you are doing then do some research. Understand what boost is and what it does and how the boost compensation system works THEN you can make informed decisions yourself on what adjustments to make rather than asking and hoping. It really is quite simple !

Good luck with it 👍

Mo

Mo

waiting for valve to arrive. 

Played around with rod before your original input about the valve 

It might be my wording,  I was accelerating hard. Got 2 about 2500rpm in 4th uphill albeit a very small incline, then floored it, Max boost each time was as mentioned 10. I just expected a little more from the rod adjustments

 

Cheers 

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1 minute ago, Chambo110 said:

Mo

waiting for valve to arrive. 

Played around with rod before your original input about the valve 

It might be my wording,  I was accelerating hard. Got 2 about 2500rpm in 4th uphill albeit a very small incline, then floored it, Max boost each time was as mentioned 10. I just expected a little more from the rod adjustments

 

Cheers 

Do it in third not fourth. You want max revs to test this under hard load. 

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Good. 

Understanding will help you achieve what you want from it.

The attached file is a very good explanation of what and how.

Hopefully you will find it useful.

Mo

Ps if you haven't done it already, take the circlip off the wastegate lever and check that the wastegate is free and closes fully. If it's open a bit you wont max your boost.

Tuning_Land_Rover_Tdi_engines_Rev_2.pdf

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18 hours ago, Chambo110 said:

Ooops ? Was I robbed then ?

Not at all. The other chap's come with free rust. Nick really does know his stuff

Something else to check.  It is possible for the boost pipe that runs to the diaphragm to suck up excess oil (if overfilled) and to dump it in the 'pot' under the diaphragm. It will give the same power issues as you are experiencing...

...it's also possible to get a blockage or accidental crimp in the pipe

Just work through the whole system - check nothing is seized or blocked, before you move anything else

 

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1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:

Not at all. The other chap's come with free rust. Nick really does know his stuff

Something else to check.  It is possible for the boost pipe that runs to the diaphragm to suck up excess oil (if overfilled) and to dump it in the 'pot' under the diaphragm. It will give the same power issues as you are experiencing...

...it's also possible to get a blockage or accidental crimp in the pipe

Just work through the whole system - check nothing is seized or blocked, before you move anything else

 

Can’t remember what I paid now to be honest 

quality was very good though.

checked that pipe for kinks and blockages.. all seems good.

 

Manual boost control just arrived . Rod set back to original position. Gonna leave it til tomorrow now.. weather permitting. 
spent today reading through mo’s link and watching numerous vids

cheers all 

 

 

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Boost controller fitted. 

see what you mean Mo  .. how easy is that now.

rod set back to standard, FIP not touched. Boost now is 14psi at approx 3000rpm in 3rd flooring it up the best hill I could find on this snooker table I live on.

feels sooo much better. 

thanks all for tips, pics and links

 

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I have 1.3 bar. My experience is, that higher boost keeps the the EGT low, when the pump is adjusted

I really thought long, whether high boost can hurt. The weakest point is the intercooler. If he can stand it, no hurt.

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What Sigi said, higher boost keeps the EGT lower. Nice big intercooler helps too.

 

Glad the boost controller has made it easier, Chambo. 

 

How does it drive now ? You still have the fuel pin fitted ?

For others following, the mumby controller on ebay is of a suitably agricultural design to fit right in under a Defender bonnet 🤣🤣

Mo

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There is a balance though isn't there when you consider intake temps? My understanding is that if you increase boost too much and you compress the air more and therefore heat it more and lose the benefit of the extra boost?? A more efficient intercooler comes into play with this too then.

@Daan had some data on this IIRC as he had temperature gauges fitted on both sides of the intercooler.

Edited by reb78
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