Pino54 Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 sorry, I'm talking to translator, I did this, if it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Hard work.. Hope to get started with the Ninety soon.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Pino54 Posted November 24, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted November 24, 2020 yes, but it's done with will 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Welcome to the forum Pino , that looks very good and a lot of work , you should put a build thread in the members vehicles forum , I'm sure it will be of interest to lots of us cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 On 11/23/2020 at 7:51 PM, ianmayco68 said: pic from my build thread if it helps . This is what is in the 110 and certainly looks very different to my 200tdi 90 Thanks all that is the first part of the puzzle solved - 300tdi engine mounts in the standard 300tdi position are what I will be going with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 OK onto problem number 2 - how could I make the tipping gear a bolt on part and thus return the chassis to standard should the need ever arise. This also solves the issue of a modified chassis and losing 5 points for the DVLA? This is what I want to retain - the rear tub bottom level being flush with the bottom of the doors. I can then fit a tree slider along here and finish things off. It does look like it stuck that outrigger on slightly wonky in the dark....not that it matters now! You can see the rust at the bottom of that chassis rail I have an idea for the frame itself. Instead of welding to the cross member like this I could add some angle right across to pick up on all the redundant rear body mount holes and a thicker piece of steel coming down the face of the cross member to pick up the tow bar mounting holes. That would be plenty strong enough at the back On the rear body supports that are part of the standard chassis alongside the tank I could drill holes in the top and bolt downwards. I think there is clearance for the bolt heads but need to check The same could be done at the body mount next to the shock mount and then the front mount is bolt on to the chassis. If those brackets are good I can leave the weld as is which will help me get it in the exact same position on the new chassis The tipping ram brackets are where I am currently stuck. A frame has been welded in like this. It needs to go back in exactly the same place as clearances are tight with the ram pivoting in the middle of the A frame. I dont think there are mounting points strong enough to bolt this on? Often has over a ton being tipped The pump and reservoir is mounted here but I think I can come up with a bracket to pick up on the last body mount for this What is odd are the two parallel lengths of angle welded in here. I can only presume this was where they were initially going to put the tipping ram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 19 minutes ago, L19MUD said: OK onto problem number 2 - how could I make the tipping gear a bolt on part and thus return the chassis to standard should the need ever arise. This also solves the issue of a modified chassis and losing 5 points for the DVLA? Adding extra bits to a chassis not a modified one, in their terms, so tipper attachment points, roll cage outriggers and the like are not counted, so don't worry yourself about that aspect. The 5 points thing is a bit of a misnomer when it comes to the chassis, if you modify it beyond their determinations, it is instant IVA, as it must use an original *unmodified* chassis, though apart from the exclusions I mentioned above. As for making it bolt on, you will be looking at drilling, sleeving and welding in anti-crush tubes at the very minimum, so even doing this, you won't have a 'standard' chassis, and will take 5 times longer than just welding all the kits into place as it has already been engineered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 That ram mount can be made bolt in to the standard chassis , order your galv. chassis as standard . As you said the rear pivot mount can be spread across the x-member on pads to the tabs and rear hitch plate mount holes , and pick up the front body supports for the landing supports at the front . There is space above the tank front x-member and the A-frame x-member to form plate (8-10mm) to rest flush to the top faces and mount with strap plates or nutserts with the operating load in compression . This plate can then be ribbed/gusseted as required to position the ram hinge . I've done one or two similar things .... Just a passing thought , I suppose changing to a 130" WB is outside the rules these days ? It would be handy spare wheel/toolbox space between headboard and cab. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 2 hours ago, steve b said: That ram mount can be made bolt in to the standard chassis , order your galv. chassis as standard . As you said the rear pivot mount can be spread across the x-member on pads to the tabs and rear hitch plate mount holes , and pick up the front body supports for the landing supports at the front . There is space above the tank front x-member and the A-frame x-member to form plate (8-10mm) to rest flush to the top faces and mount with strap plates or nutserts with the operating load in compression . This plate can then be ribbed/gusseted as required to position the ram hinge . I've done one or two similar things .... Just a passing thought , I suppose changing to a 130" WB is outside the rules these days ? It would be handy spare wheel/toolbox space between headboard and cab. Steve Something like this Steve? with the plates where the yellow highlight is? The rear tank mount and the A frame mounts could then probably be used to hold it in place to stop side to side and forward to back movement without even drilling extra holes. It also means I can reuse all of what I have already and just add to it to make it bolt on You may have just lined yourself up for the job of helping though 😁 Re the 130 comment....great minds but sadly well out of the rules from my interpretation I have already looked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 25, 2020 Share Posted November 25, 2020 Yes , just like that , I was thinking make the whole thing but you are right , you can re-use most of it . Just let me know when , some CAD with an old cardboard box and a bit of plasma cutting is in my happy place ☺️ Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted November 25, 2020 Author Share Posted November 25, 2020 23 minutes ago, steve b said: Yes , just like that , I was thinking make the whole thing but you are right , you can re-use most of it . Just let me know when , some CAD with an old cardboard box and a bit of plasma cutting is in my happy place ☺️ Steve Thanks Steve. Ordered the chassis today but that has a 10-12 week lead time so will be next year before this needs to be done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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