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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

Sorry if I missed it! What's the spec of your car vs the class you're entering? 

Open adventure  

Pair of hydraulic winches or a god winch pto abd hydraulic kam lockers ashcroft cvs shafts peged diffs td5 will be back on standard turbo for ease of repairs 38 mud treps and will have bead locks 

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18 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Sorry if I missed it! What's the spec of your car vs the class you're entering? 

Open adventure  

Pair of hydraulic winches or a god winch pto abd hydraulic kam lockers ashcroft cvs shafts peged diffs td5 will be back on standard turbo for ease of repairs 38 mud treps and will have bead locks 

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7 hours ago, Jimmymad99 said:

@FridgeFreezer did you up grade to seal winches or did u build the non low line  your self 

Was thinking of making new drum and end plate with chain 1:1 drive for the type r winches for more drum capacity

I can't remember all the details of Mouse's winch... I never knew them all to start with, it was designed by one of the Finns (Mikko) and Jez. All I know is it was beautifully made.

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From what I remember, the rear was a standard Milemarker H12.

The front had a bigger drum, bigger motor and a button labeled 'turbo'. We never got to the bottom of it, but I know it controlled a valve close to the winch motor. My best guess would be the motor was a parallel type (like many gear pumps) and the valve allowed one section to be isolated to increase speed (at the cost of torque).

The pump was crank driven, much as on you Defender @Jimmymad99. It did feature a mechanical clutch.

I briefly entertained the idea to fit something like this on the Range Rover V8, but there's not much room. And it would involve a lot more fabrication and trial and error, so I've just ordered a magnetic clutchdrive for the serpentine belt. We know that works and it's fast enough for what I want. Better to spend the time improving what we know instead of trying to come up with something new. That didn't work out at all for the winch on the Defender in 2009... We had done most of the testing with a magnetic clutch and a V-belt, but that kept slipping under water. So we changed to a chain, found out the clutch didn't want to play with the chain wheel and last mintue fabbed a mechanical clutch. Without an emergency back-up, so when the locking mechanisme broke while winching an UAZ out of a river, we were without a winch for the rest of the tour. 😞   

Filip

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  • 2 weeks later...

A 14cc gear pump mounted on an electromagnetic clutch, rated to 5000rpm so should be fine when driven by the serpentine belt of the V8. I just hope the bigger pump doesn't cause slippage under low revs/high load conditions. Luckily pumps are cheap and easy to swap as long as you stay in the same group.

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18 hours ago, Escape said:

A 14cc gear pump mounted on an electromagnetic clutch, rated to 5000rpm so should be fine when driven by the serpentine belt of the V8. I just hope the bigger pump doesn't cause slippage under low revs/high load conditions. Luckily pumps are cheap and easy to swap as long as you stay in the same group.

I ran my 26cc on off the aux belt in td5 yiu make a back plate with 2 rollers close together so the belt is wrapped all the way around the pulley to maximise the contact pick up it didn't slip at all even when wet only moved it to crank as was bit to geared up 

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  • 2 weeks later...

This new set of lock downs are starting to make ladoga-trophy a far away goal still pushing on forward busy pegging both diffs and copied cough cough the beautiful alloy flange seals and just waiting for the oil flicker plates from a Toyota 4 runner to turn up so far cost me £10 some scrap and some argon 

 

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My nightime reading has served me well then :D although reading back he did say he was doing it in the previous post:lol:

 

Is there an issue with that much weld in one area on the casing with the heat from the weld?   It looks a pretty strong area to start with, not alot can move i guess

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8 hours ago, Badger110 said:

My nightime reading has served me well then :D although reading back he did say he was doing it in the previous post:lol:

 

Is there an issue with that much weld in one area on the casing with the heat from the weld?   It looks a pretty strong area to start with, not alot can move i guess

It's  welded in very small passes to stop the heat build up and colling effect cracking the welded the large width welds are to help with surface contact as with cast if its hard to get good adhesion due to the  Granular  structure its my first attempt at one 

The lockers and casses are @Team Idris old axles

so is my rear winch 

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