L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 I thought this might be of interest/people might come up with some better ideas than me! I no longer have a curtainsider for covered storage and with a house move coming up I needed a plan. The plan is to create a demountable luton body to fit on my 18ft bateson trailer. I now have both the body and the trailer. 2 Key criteria to meet - Mount onto trailer in an easy and secure way without using straps etc. My plan is to use the sockets in the trailer that would normally hold the side posts - Be able to lift it off and stand above the trailer on legs. I can't lift off with the forklift as I want to store it above the trailer in the same shed. I am thinking I could use slide in legs with wing up legs on the bottom to lift it. It is really not that heavy, just huge. The trailer does tilt which lifts the front which could be useful but that may also cause issues with however I mount it It currently has a tail lift and I believe the hydraulic pump still fitted so that could be part of the design? Ideas welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Like this ? Less angle maybe as this is for horsefeed with a sliding trap door to the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 Yes that leg at the back looks ideal. I am going to need to make the legs removable though as it is already 7ft wide and dont want it to be any wider. I also want to make enough space to reverse under easily without it being really tight to back the trailer under each time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 The legs on this one are removeable - just slide into the box frame . The screw jack legs at the rear are fabricated using threaded rod , so on return from the bulk feed supplier the box is positioned for use , tipped up , legs inserted , rear jack legs lowered to take the weight , lower the tipper back to rest and pull out . There are mini twist locks available to lock onto the trailer bed but it will probably be simpler to fab. to your trailer. Farmpower/Gwaza are good for stuff like screw jack legs if you want to buy off shelf . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Trailer and vehicle body fitting manufacturer: https://transport.albertjagger.co.uk/our-products 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Interesting idea! You can buy legs for taking off/levelling campers that might work? Especially if empty. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 One thought, what is the construction of the bottom of the box like? Does it have some kind of subframe or is it going to bow without the support of the van chassis under it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ooops Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Northstar campers have 4 wind up legs attached to their demountables which can be raised and lowered with a cordless drill and socket. grizzlynbear show it being lifted to drive their 130 out from under it, a similar thing could be done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 4 hours ago, steve b said: The legs on this one are removeable - just slide into the box frame . The screw jack legs at the rear are fabricated using threaded rod , so on return from the bulk feed supplier the box is positioned for use , tipped up , legs inserted , rear jack legs lowered to take the weight , lower the tipper back to rest and pull out . There are mini twist locks available to lock onto the trailer bed but it will probably be simpler to fab. to your trailer. Farmpower/Gwaza are good for stuff like screw jack legs if you want to buy off shelf . To mount it how I had planned i think I would need to use/make 4 legs so that the body lifts off the trailer squarely. I was thinking of box section sliding down into the trailer post holes and if it did not lift up in parallel to the trailer that would not work. Does make me think if I need to revisit that idea as to lift up parallel will require jacking each leg a little bit at a time, either that or the mounts get completely removed from the body before jacking up and then your method would work. The jack legs at the back will have to actually raise above the trailer on mine though as the pivot point is about 3ft back from the end of the trailer not at the end so the rear of the body will actually lower not raise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 1 hour ago, landroversforever said: One thought, what is the construction of the bottom of the box like? Does it have some kind of subframe or is it going to bow without the support of the van chassis under it? There are two I section aluminum rails approx. 6 inches deep that run front to back and sat on top of the chassis of the truck. Unloaded I do not think they will bow. Does raise the question that legs inboard of the ends by 18inches may help with this if it is possible 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 23 minutes ago, Ooops said: These legs look particularly good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 21 minutes ago, Badger110 said: Northstar campers have 4 wind up legs attached to their demountables which can be raised and lowered with a cordless drill and socket. grizzlynbear show it being lifted to drive their 130 out from under it, a similar thing could be done? Yes I think this type of idea is going to be what I do. Just need to find the most suitable legs to do it or make something like Steve has shown above then mount to the body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 How often do you envisage taking it on and off? Would making the legs with hydraulic rams and hoses to lift from one place work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Another thought could be actuators. They can lift a fair whack of weight on their own and be wired to perform at the same time... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, landroversforever said: How often do you envisage taking it on and off? Would making the legs with hydraulic rams and hoses to lift from one place work? Just thought, you've got the hydraulic pack from the tail lift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 1 minute ago, landroversforever said: How often do you envisage taking it on and off? Would making the legs with hydraulic rams and hoses to lift from one place work? Taking it on and off - prob 5-10 times a year I would say max. Mostly the body will be on the legs and the trailer will be frequently taken out from under it and put back I did think that but to achieve would cost more, and require the legs to fold in somehow so they could stay connected. The pump is still there from the tail lift though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 2 minutes ago, L19MUD said: Taking it on and off - prob 5-10 times a year I would say max. Mostly the body will be on the legs and the trailer will be frequently taken out from under it and put back I did think that but to achieve would cost more, and require the legs to fold in somehow so they could stay connected. The pump is still there from the tail lift though.... I was picturing a set of hoses with dry break connectors so it can be taken apart once listed. Although, writing that I've just thought that as the hydraulics would be under load from tbe box, you might not get the connectors apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Just thought, you've got the hydraulic pack from the tail lift? Yes I have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 You would probably need balance valve blocks to get it to work evenly with hydraulics . If the pegs are tapered and short ( maybe even full radius ?) that go in the sockets on the trailer lifting square is not such an issue. Simple screw jack legs would be my choice with the radius pegs and some sort of simple bolt to retain in place when mounted . Use the hydraulic power pack to make a powered folder/press ..... there is several thousand sq. feet of hydraulic goodies not far from you ☺️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Very interesting project! I was talking to @elbekko the other about a similar idea. As your trailer pivot point is not at the end, you should get away with fixed legs (or adjustable without load): fit the rear legs with the trailer level, tilt it so the rear legs take the weight of the body, fit the front legs when the body is high enough and then lower the trailer about halfway to drive it out. As you say, that would require some radius in the mounts instead of just box section, so they don't bind while tilting. And if space is tight, you'd have to tilt the trailer a bit every time you park it under the body. But that's how I would do it, winding up 4 legs would annoy me after just a few uses. On the other hand, you do have hydraulics. It will take some time/fabbing and will not be cheap unless you can 'find' the necessary parts, but a nice challenge to get it working. Can the tail lift push down to take the weight? That would solve halve the problem, if you have room at the rear. Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Ok so here is the plan taking all feedback into consideration...hydraulics/actuators etc whilst would be a fun project are not going to be quick or cheap unless I spend ages looking for bits second hand. So using the KISS system this is what I think I will go with. Excuse the terrible out of scale drawings but a picture speaks a thousand words The bottom of the body is basically made up of 2 long I sections of Ali that used to run down the length of the chassis of the truck with C section steel bolted every 300mm (ish) at 90 degrees to this with board on top of it. This gives space between the trailer and the bottom edge of the C section to fit a socket for the legs. The trailer side post holes are conveniently located so that the box section making the 'peg' that locates into those holes can be welded to the bottom of the box section socket The socket can be 600mm long and welded to some flat bar at each end and span 3 of the C sections which will spread the weight The leg itself will then slide in this socket with 600mm inside and 300mm protruding giving me space either side to get the trailer in. I may have to lose the diagonals to improve on this which won't matter if the box section is big enough. I also think if the box section is big enough I can get away without steel between the two legs on this side. This does mean 4 legs to wind up but for less than 10 times a year I can deal with that more than having to faff tilting the trailer each time I back it in (used most weeks) and is at a different angle depending on the tow vehicle. It is on a hard (semi smooth) surface so they jockey wheels instead of legs would help me locate it, I'm not thinking of wheeling it round like that So I guess the question is what size box section for the sockets and the legs. 100mm box for the sockets? What thickness? How can I work out what size would fit inside fairly tightly? 50mm by 3mm flat bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 P.s has anyone got 4 cheap ribbed jockey wheels and clamps?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Got started with this today. All 4 sockets to fit to the body made and a couple bolted on. Also started making the legs 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 That’s coming along! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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