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So what’s left?


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9 minutes ago, reb78 said:

Its random depending on the gauge fitted. They all go off at different points in my experience. Drive it till you run out and then you will know!

Er no 😂

think I’ll pop £20 in should last to next year as it’s off the road come January 

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Use the situation. Release all the dirt and rust and water from the tank trough the drain plug. Then fill it up completely. Otherwise unprotected surface in the tank will rust, if it will not be used longer.

On the other hand ... a '86 110 will need some more work anyway. A restoration is better with an empty tank 😁

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32 minutes ago, western said:

Should be 10 litres when the light stays on steady. 

Should be, but we all know LR gauges are very broad estimates at best... my fuel light comes on when the tank is very full, so it's a "plenty of fuel light" as well as a low-fuel light :lol:

I'd advise against running it till you run out, in a diesel you'll have to prime the system and it can suck a load of water and dirt off the bottom of the tank.

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I don’t recommend running dry as pump cavitation is rarely helpful to its longevity.  As for sucking water and debris from the bottom of the tank, the pickup pipe is fixed, so injection of those shouldn’t be affected by the fuel level - the water and sediment will generally be sat at the bottom, agitated but settling whenever the vehicle is steady, regardless of how much fuel is on top of that bad level.  Leaving a tank with low levels for long durations is bad, though, as it allows more air and thus more condensation to form and drop into the fuel over a period.  Keeping the tank full prevents that condensation.

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3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I'd advise against running it till you run out, in a diesel you'll have to prime the system and it can suck a load of water and dirt off the bottom of the tank.

I should have made it clear that it was a tongue in cheek comment. Not so say I haven't accidentally done it though. I have rolled into petrol stations several times... once I had to drive in on the starter motor as it conked out about 50ft before the garage....

No bleed needed on the tdi if you do though, it will prime itself.

I judge when to fill up on mileage. With normal driving, aim to fill up around 300 miles in the 110 - can push it to 350 but thats getting close to empty.

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I have never seen my low level light come on (300 TDi 110). Does the gauge itself 'do it' or is it an additional cable connection at the sender? I have been a bit lazy and not looked at the wiring diagram or my sender photos but I think it will be gauge derived. Can anyone confirm?

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On 12/7/2020 at 7:41 PM, Snagger said:

I don’t recommend running dry as pump cavitation is rarely helpful to its longevity.  As for sucking water and debris from the bottom of the tank, the pickup pipe is fixed, so injection of those shouldn’t be affected by the fuel level - the water and sediment will generally be sat at the bottom, agitated but settling whenever the vehicle is steady, regardless of how much fuel is on top of that bad level.  Leaving a tank with low levels for long durations is bad, though, as it allows more air and thus more condensation to form and drop into the fuel over a period.  Keeping the tank full prevents that condensation.

👆This 100%. 

The amount of times I've heard people say that running low on fuel allows the engine to suck up rubbish from the bottom of the tank as if usually the fuel is skimmed off the surface! 

Also, petrol has a high vapour pressure and displaces a higher % of damp air in the tank. Diesel on the other hand has a low vapour pressure and won't displace wet air allowing condensation to form. Keep diesel tanks full of diesel for this reason. 

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On 12/7/2020 at 1:34 PM, Green200tdi said:

Always wondered this, 

my 1986 Land Rover 110 csw has the 

diesel tank in the rear of the chassis, 

how much diesel is left?

orange light is on and needle has just hit the bottom of gauge 🤔

The guage on land rovers is so imprecise. When the fuel light has come on, put a large clean container under the tank and let the fuel drain out. You will then see howuch is in your tank when the light comes on and it will be interesting to see if there is any rubbish in the bottom.

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2 hours ago, Peaklander said:

I have never seen my low level light come on (300 TDi 110). Does the gauge itself 'do it' or is it an additional cable connection at the sender? I have been a bit lazy and not looked at the wiring diagram or my sender photos but I think it will be gauge derived. Can anyone confirm?

Majority of 300Tdi Defender never had the 3 terminal tank sender which includes the low fuel switching, but pre & post 300tdi vehicles do have the low fuel light connected, IIRC on Td5 its switched via the 'brain' in the speedo, whereas my 1989 110 its done by a signal from tank sender to the light on warning light panel.

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When your tank is on a low level, drain it into buckets, replace the drain plug, and then start returning fuel to the tank.  Measure how much fuel you add and note critical items on the gauge, like when it starts to show a level, when the low level light goes out, etc.  Then you've got a fairly good idea of how much fuel you have left when you get low.

Measuring mileage is fine in most circumstances, and I did this for many thousands of km. after my fuel gauge packed up, until one day I got caught out.  I could normally do 500 - 550 km before I would refuel, filling up each time and resetting the trip meter, but the time I was caught out was in fairly extreme weather conditions.   It was raining very hard, so a lot of water on the highway, and I was traveling into a very strong headwind and trying to keep up with the traffic at about 100 - 110kph (60 - 65mph).  I ran out of fuel at just over 450km.  So, be aware of the conditions because your mileage endurance can be very significantly reduced.  Once you have calibrated your fuel gauge you don't have this problem.

Mike

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