Discovery two Buying advice

[jason110]

Right, so I’ve been without a Land Rover for a few years now with houses renovations, family life etc. 
 

I live in mid wales so have some fantastic scenery on my doorstep and I want to get out and explore a bit. I’ve got a little daughter whom I want to bring with me too. 
 

so I was thinking of a discovery 2 for comfort and it being quieter than a series or defender plus they seem a bit cheaper. I had a 300tdi for a while but it succumbed to rust around the boot floor, arches etc etc. 
 

ive got a budget of around £3k to £4K to spend, I’m not after anything concourse just a weekend warrior we can do a few lanes and generally get out without hassles. I don’t mind a bit of work, but I don’t want a basket case that I end up spending all my free time on and it becoming a money pit. 
 

can I get something decent with MOT for my budget or am i deluded? 

[Escape]

A D2 could be a good choice. Reliable and not too complicated and less prone to rust than the D1. I'd want to recommend a P38, as those are better value for money IMHO, but I can't deny they'll require a bit more TLC and are less suited as a weekend warrior left idle for long periods. And the D2 is easier to modify if you want, with a lot more parts readily available.

One thing to keep in mind is not all D2s have the center diff lock. So look for one with the diff lock if the main use will be offroading. 

You budget would get you a reasonable one over here, I think you'd have even more choice in UK. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will soon confirm/deny.

Filip

[Blanco]

Sounds reasonable to me, spend some of the budget up front on a Nanocom and you will have it to check on the vehicles you look at. The big value driver on a D2 is the chassis condition, so take the greatest care to check on that first, it goes at the back, behind the axle first (Escape is right, P38's have  much better chassis' for some reason). Other than that be wary of worn DMF's and front wheel bearings/three amigos, most other things are fixable fairly cheaply. As with any car, don't be in a hurry and favour cars with service history and careful owners.

[landroversforever]

4 hours ago, jason110 said:

Right, so I’ve been without a Land Rover for a few years now with houses renovations, family life etc. 
 

I live in mid wales so have some fantastic scenery on my doorstep and I want to get out and explore a bit. I’ve got a little daughter whom I want to bring with me too. 
 

so I was thinking of a discovery 2 for comfort and it being quieter than a series or defender plus they seem a bit cheaper. I had a 300tdi for a while but it succumbed to rust around the boot floor, arches etc etc. 
 

ive got a budget of around £3k to £4K to spend, I’m not after anything concourse just a weekend warrior we can do a few lanes and generally get out without hassles. I don’t mind a bit of work, but I don’t want a basket case that I end up spending all my free time on and it becoming a money pit. 
 

can I get something decent with MOT for my budget or am i deluded? 

With that kind of budget I think you'll get a decent one. Be wary of the rear chassis as mentioned, I've seen a few that look in great nic up top but are totally shot underneath. Keep an eye on ebay and go and have a look at some.

[reb78]

I agree with what the others have said. Chassis chassis chassis - thats why a lot of of these are getting scrapped. 
 

we have had one since 2012 (ish) and bar the normal niggles its been a good vehicle, comfy and easy to work on. Its more comfy than the D3 in my opinion. 
 

I wouldn't buy a nanocom personally. Temperamental machines and dont always do what they should. Hawkeye Total is more reliable and open to most LR models (unlike nanocom which charge the earth to add functionality for other vehicles). Hawkeye doesnt do some of the programming nanocom will so though (like changing fuel maps).  

[landroversforever]

8 minutes ago, reb78 said:

I wouldn't buy a nanocom personally. Temperamental machines and dont always do what they should. Hawkeye Total is more reliable and open to most LR models (unlike nanocom which charge the earth to add functionality for other vehicles). Hawkeye doesnt do some of the programming nanocom will so though (like changing fuel maps).  

Which version of Nanocom was that? I've got the later one and had no issues with it. As for the cost to add other vehicles, it was about £60 for most I think last time I looked, it was more for P38 and the later stuff but can't remember how much.

[Chicken Drumstick]

If you aren't doing big mileages I say consider a V8 one. However I would also 2nd a p38 Range Rover. Maybe slightly more fickle, but a nicer/better vehicle IMO.

[landroversforever]

Just now, Chicken Drumstick said:

If you aren't doing big mileages I say consider a V8 one. However I would also 2nd a p38 Range Rover. Maybe slightly more fickle, but a nicer/better vehicle IMO.

Interestingly (and surprisingly) the V8's when I've been looking seem to fetch a premium over the equivalent diesel which surprised me. I've been looking at late model 53-54 plate ones and £3-4K seemingly gets a decent td5 one. Same spec and age V8's were around the £6-7K mark. 

[Chicken Drumstick]

Admit I've not looked for a while. I guess the V8 is maybe more desirable as a 'nice' car these days as opposed to a beater maybe. Hadn't realised such a price gap though. Pretty sure you can get a p38 for good money still. Either that or mine is worth more than I thought....

[reb78]

15 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Which version of Nanocom was that? I've got the later one and had no issues with it. As for the cost to add other vehicles, it was about £60 for most I think last time I looked, it was more for P38 and the later stuff but can't remember how much.

Nanocom Evo, Ross. I just dont get on with it and its easier to get the Hawkeye from the D3 where its kept on most occasions than to reach behind me in the D2 and pull the nanocom out of the seat pocket. Instrument mode doesn't work (not needed but why put it on there if you aren't going to make it work), accessing the BCU and ABS modules is temperamental and you have to try a number of times to get in there. Brake bleeding made noise but didn't seem to do much in terms of getting fluid to flow from the caliper, every firmware 'upgrade' seems to have a new bug so I stopped upgrading! On the Hawkeye Total, everything just works, it connects, it reads, it clears codes, it tells you what to do in terms of turning ignition on and off for various procedures and making connections to various ECUs and brake bleeding works a treat. I only keep the nanocom so I can change fuel maps if needed.

I contacted BBS about it (particularly the errant readings on the instrument mode) - the guys on their forum seemed to want to help but there was no solution, the owner pretty much told me I was lucky to have one of his wonderful machines and should accept its eccentricities (I paraphrase...)

When I bought the D3, I thought ok, well I have a nanocom, I will accept I think its a fairly cack bit of kit and upgrade it for D3 functionality - by the time you add on new leads and extra licences it was more than the cost of Hawkeye Total so I went that way instead. IIRC, the D3 lead on the nanocom is backward compatible with the D2, but the D2 lead that came with my nanocom not forward compatible with the D3 so they charge the earth for a new cable.

If GAP Diagnostics made a machine that covered earlier models that would be the way to go but they don't seem to cover anything earlier than the D3.

(I have a bee in my bonnet about nanocom, ignore me!)

 

[reb78]

9 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Interestingly (and surprisingly) the V8's when I've been looking seem to fetch a premium over the equivalent diesel which surprised me. I've been looking at late model 53-54 plate ones and £3-4K seemingly gets a decent td5 one. Same spec and age V8's were around the £6-7K mark. 

I think they are generally better looked after and lower mileage vehicles because they are V8s. I also wonder if the anti diesel brigade has something to do with it.

[landroversforever]

27 minutes ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

Admit I've not looked for a while. I guess the V8 is maybe more desirable as a 'nice' car these days as opposed to a beater maybe. Hadn't realised such a price gap though. Pretty sure you can get a p38 for good money still. Either that or mine is worth more than I thought....

Worth noting that those prices are what they've been put on at, not necessarily what they sell for I guess! 

[missingsid]

2 hours ago, reb78 said:

Nanocom Evo, Ross. I just dont get on with it and its easier to get the Hawkeye from the D3 where its kept on most occasions than to reach behind me in the D2 and pull the nanocom out of the seat pocket. Instrument mode doesn't work (not needed but why put it on there if you aren't going to make it work), accessing the BCU and ABS modules is temperamental and you have to try a number of times to get in there. Brake bleeding made noise but didn't seem to do much in terms of getting fluid to flow from the caliper, every firmware 'upgrade' seems to have a new bug so I stopped upgrading! On the Hawkeye Total, everything just works, it connects, it reads, it clears codes, it tells you what to do in terms of turning ignition on and off for various procedures and making connections to various ECUs and brake bleeding works a treat. I only keep the nanocom so I can change fuel maps if needed.

I contacted BBS about it (particularly the errant readings on the instrument mode) - the guys on their forum seemed to want to help but there was no solution, the owner pretty much told me I was lucky to have one of his wonderful machines and should accept its eccentricities (I paraphrase...)

When I bought the D3, I thought ok, well I have a nanocom, I will accept I think its a fairly cack bit of kit and upgrade it for D3 functionality - by the time you add on new leads and extra licences it was more than the cost of Hawkeye Total so I went that way instead. IIRC, the D3 lead on the nanocom is backward compatible with the D2, but the D2 lead that came with my nanocom not forward compatible with the D3 so they charge the earth for a new cable.

If GAP Diagnostics made a machine that covered earlier models that would be the way to go but they don't seem to cover anything earlier than the D3.

(I have a bee in my bonnet about nanocom, ignore me!)

 

I have a Nanocom Evo for my D3, it works fine but I agree about BB vs GAP.

GAP have added more functionality for D3s than BB who are far more interested in selling their new revolutionary box (read catching up with GAP). When I looked at GAP it used the dashboard screen and had less functions than BB (GAP later told me it was their website that was in error not the actual product).

GAP know more about the D3 software whereas BB only know how to load it.

[jason110]

Ok thanks for the replies. 
 

Does it need to be nanocom /GAP or will a generic code reader do? 

 

on the subject of TD5’s; electrics don’t scare me so I’m not bothered about that. But is there anything I should look out for on the engine? Obviously the usual oil in water, service history, smoke on start up & acceleration. 
 

had a look on eBay, seems a few about. Any purchase or viewing will have to wait to the new year. I’m working until the 22nd December

[Blanco]

It needs to be LR specific, generic readers will give almost nothing of use in the known problem areas,.. a pain but a fact

 

[oneandtwo]

I have just scrapped my 2004 Metropolis edition Td5. These were the best and most expensive Discovery 2s sold and were fitted with every available option, plus DVD system and Sat nav system in roof. This was a cosseted example and had never seen a muddy track.

On the outside it still looks lovely, but dig below the surface and it is riddled with rust. The chassis has completely gone at the rear end, however, more surprisingly, since stripping it I found that all the door frames are rotten, yet completely hidden by trim. The seat frames are rotten due to sunroofs leaking and soaking the carpet. The roof is also rusting badly, and the battery tray is starting to join it. 

I purchased it a few months ago to do a few jobs with knowing that I would be scrapping it when the MOT ran out. It has done its job and owes me nothing, however seen what I have I would be very wary of rust issues.

[jason110]

2 hours ago, oneandtwo said:

I have just scrapped my 2004 Metropolis edition Td5. These were the best and most expensive Discovery 2s sold and were fitted with every available option, plus DVD system and Sat nav system in roof. This was a cosseted example and had never seen a muddy track.

On the outside it still looks lovely, but dig below the surface and it is riddled with rust. The chassis has completely gone at the rear end, however, more surprisingly, since stripping it I found that all the door frames are rotten, yet completely hidden by trim. The seat frames are rotten due to sunroofs leaking and soaking the carpet. The roof is also rusting badly, and the battery tray is starting to join it. 

I purchased it a few months ago to do a few jobs with knowing that I would be scrapping it when the MOT ran out. It has done its job and owes me nothing, however seen what I have I would be very wary of rust issues.

That’s some good advice and just what I was after. I don’t want to be buying a potential basket case. I know my budget isn’t going to buy me something totally without issues but at the same time I don’t want a potential basket case then I spend working all the time. 

[reb78]

I have had to weld the body on my D2 for the last three MOTs. Both inner wings in the engine bay now done and the rear sills at the front of the rear wheel arch. My chassis is not bad but wont last forever I think (I have sprayed the inside with waxoyl diluted in old oil several times...). I keep thinking 'next year I wont bother', but its comfy, it tows nicely, it goes well, is easy to work on and really owes me nothing at all. (literally nothing at all as the other half had an accident, insurance wrote it off, valued it at a lot more than it was worth - (£4800 when it was really a £2500 car) - so we bought it back for scrap value (IIRC £1300) and put it back on the road for £400!).

There are good ones out there but many that look good are ropey as oneandtwo says. The adverts that say 'its a great vehicle blah blah blah.... bad bits - rear chassis needs welding' and then they ask £3k+ make me laugh - those are scrap IMO. If you are serious, keep an eye out on the d2boysclub forum (need to join to view) as good ones do come up on there occasionally but all need something doing at this stage. I keep looking at P38s as a few members on here have some that they have made look really nice but even those are going up in value now!

[reb78]

I dont know them so this isnt a reccomendation but this is under your budget so leaves something for repairs - http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=62844 (I would change the steering wheel before I even moved it!!)

I wish my mum hadnt sold her D2 to my uncle as I would have had it and run two D2s and the 110 rather than the 110, D2 and D3. I toured round Europe one summer in my mums D2 and it was a lovely drive the whole time - it was a Y reg ES spec.

If you do get one, try and avoid the 18 inch wheels - 16's are a waaay better ride, some tyres (goodyears) on 18 inch rims bounce around like a bouncy thing and provide a much choppier ride. I don't find ACE makes any difference at all personally. Electric seats are comfier as the base tilts in more ways so you can find more positions that are comfy. Air suspension is nice and people moan about the bags and compressor but treat the bags like service items and change every five years and your compressor will be fine - they are easy to change and not hugely expensive (I dont follow my own advice here). 

[jason110]

Thanks both. 
 

to be honest I had first dibs on one a few years ago. it was well cared for and I think relatively rust free, Sadly the funds were tight with house buying at the time. 
 

I’ll keep you updated with my search. I’ve got a few I’ve seen and like the look of. Just need to go see them in person. 

[Simon_CSK]

Jason

I have a Blue 1999 V8 Auto which I have had since the start of lock down. Was meant to be a project and then work got very busy. It was a Cat S when I bought it but cannot find anything wrong with it. It has 92k on the clock and a very nice burble off the exhaust. If you are interested it will have a full years MOT on it. Chassis is good, no welding to date but will need two small holes no bigger than 1in diameter welded for this MOT.

[JohnnoK]

Your guy's prices in the UK are high.

You can have my scruffy, but rust free P38 for 2500GBP (I'll take 2250, realistically, and count myself lucky), almost 380k km, no aircon thanks to the fuse box issue, no radio because I removed it to redo the wiring and haven't bothered replacing it yet,functioning EAS and it needs the ABS pump motor replacing as it's starting to go dickey.

I missed out on an automatic Disco Td5 with a faulty gearbox for 2000GBP, it had a long range tank, winch, snorkel, dual sunroofs, 6 good tyres and a bunch of spare parts with it.

It needed a door replacing due to a failed break-in and it would probably have sailed through our version of MOT with the box repaired.

[Escape]

We just bought a running TD5 D2 for €1800, needs the brakes fixed to get through MOT and some tidying to be presentable, but looks like a decent motor.

@jason110 I'd offer it to you, but being a LHD and in bhellgium probably makes it less of deal.

Filip