Sigi_H Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 On 1/3/2021 at 5:54 PM, monkie said: ... as I am going to add an earth to each corner to connect to the gearbox As you want to go back to the gearbox anyway, why not straight to an earth distributor at the battery? It's only little more with less connections that can foul away 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 37 minutes ago, Sigi_H said: As you want to go back to the gearbox anyway, why not straight to an earth distributor at the battery? It's only little more with less connections that can foul away Yes, good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Those splices you showed earlier look like open barrel splices, I'm having a hard time getting them to work on my 14 and 16 gauge wires because my crimpers are too small. Works great on the smaller wires. I ordered some step down butt connectors to try on the heavier gauge wires, see how that works. Hydralink has some nice 2 into one and closed end splices but they are expensive. Sean 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Here's the Hydralink ones: https://theelectricaldepot.com/heat-shrink-connectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Since mine is such a mixed up collection of parts I also bought a label machine and some clear heat shrink. I tried to match wire color but some were hard to get locally and some of my accessories weren't Defender specific. This is the right rear harness joined to a 4 gauge ground wire. Sean 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) PaulMc, quoting from your roof top lighting thread, referenced in this thread: "I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02722.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02723.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02724.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02725.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02726.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02727.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02728.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02729.jpg" How do you make these electrical connections waterproof on the side where the two wires exit the heat shrink sleeve, please? Sorry, what I thought would be a couple of photos only came up as the addresses that I copied them from, but you can at least access them. Mike Edited January 8, 2021 by Troll Hunter To add apology! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Just thought I'd add my 2p on the solder vs. crimp debate - I've been involved in some stuff that was deployed out to some pretty harsh environments. We always used to crimp and then add a dab of solder to the connections as well for those that were going to take abuse - although because it was usually involving RF the dab of solder was also to improve the electrical connection in some circumstances. We've seen all combinations fail equally, bear in mind that the guy in charge of the prototype lab once totalled up the cost of the crimp tools we had - went well into 6 figures for not a huge number... Proper crimp vs. solder doesn't really matter - just ensure you've got proper stress relief on the connectors and/or wiring loom. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 "just ensure you've got proper stress relief on the connectors and/or wiring loom." - Echo this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 Thanks for all of the tips and tricks. A box turned up today with all the wires, tapes and econoseal connectors for the chassis harness. I plan to have all the earths from the components go to a single earth via econoseal connector (for easy isolation of a part should it fail). This single earth will then go direct to an earth bus on the negative terminal of the battery via the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 I have sorted out the colours for the wires for a 110 of the late 1980s. Everything I have found online so far is generic lucas or land rover, this is specific to a land rover 90/110 diesel. I imagine there is a high degree of overlap with later/earlier models as well as petrol. I thought it might be helpful to share this here. As always, I'm open to any corrections/comments. A solid colour is from a supply to a switch and a striped colour is switch to component. I have used the standard lucas colour code: G=green, LG = light green, R=red, U=blue, W=white, O=orange, P=purple, N =brown, B=black, Y=yellow, S=slate(grey), K=pink. G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P unfused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 I have also mapped out the two connectors to the dash warning lamps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 90/110 wiring colour codes haven't changed since 1983, later models do have additional colour codes for thinge like ABS/TC/central locking,/electric windows, but all comply with the UK standard automotive colour codings from Lucas. all the codes are on the 110 wiring diagrams in workshop manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 @western that post must be a candidate for the technical archive surely? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 That's true Ralph, as there are also Lucas colour codes on the Internet. The problem I have had is when I have a random wire, say black with pink trace for example, it comes up on the generic charts as something irrelevant to my 110 or takes me 10 minutes trawling through the circuit diagrams to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 These might help 300Tdi ---- http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/electrical schemes - defender 300 tdi.pdf Td5 ---- http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/electrical schemes - defender 2002 uk.pdf 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 51 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: @western that post must be a candidate for the technical archive surely? When Monkie has completed his loom builds I will add it into the electrical section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 39 minutes ago, western said: When Monkie has completed his loom builds I will add it into the electrical section. ooh err, that's a bit of pressure. I'm having a fire extinguisher handy for when I connect the battery up just in case. Anyone know where I can get a load of scotch locks? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 *Correction to my earlier post. Purple is fused permanent live (not unfused as I had put earlier). I also had missed off brown with red trace for the glowplug feed from ignition switch: G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P fused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NR ignition switch to glowplug relay NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed from relay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 27 minutes ago, monkie said: ooh err, that's a bit of pressure. I'm having a fire extinguisher handy for when I connect the battery up just in case. Anyone know where I can get a load of scotch locks? No pressure from here, just say when its all finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Your planning is amazing, how's it coming along? Any chance you know the amp draw or wire gauge to the rear window defog, I can't seem to find a reliable answer. Thanks, Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Thanks, I haven't done as much as I'd like as work is busy (not that I'll complain about that right now). Just put the order in for all the parts. The rear window heater is fused by a 10amp fuse. I have used 2.0mm2 wire rated at 17amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 Awesome, thanks. I ran a 12g for the wiper and a 14g for the defog but I decided I'm not going to install a wiper so that was my backup plan. I think 14g is just a hair thicker than 2mm2. I appreciate the help. Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 So, a new loom from Autosparks is £600 plus another £100 for the rear chassis loom. I have ordered parts for both with upgrades to a glow plug timer relay (I have the relay so not costed), relay switched dip/main beam head lights, fitting in earth wires to each corner that go back to the battery terminal and using econoseal an superseal to totally remove the old style bullet connectors. It has cost me £100 in wire plus another £60 in parts like tape, connectors, fuse box relays etc. (maybe I'll need to top up a bit as I go if I fluff something up or realise I made an error somewhere) - but I think you'll agree a significant cost saving on £700 for off the shelf. You just have to be prepared for the planning and work. I'll post some picture as I get the loom assembled, but I want to crack on now I miss not being able to drive my 110 - it's been sat on the drive loomless for over a month now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 On 1/10/2021 at 2:06 PM, monkie said: A solid colour is from a supply to a switch and a striped colour is switch to component. Excuse my ignorance, is this what you are doing, or a standard procedure in LR wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 I understand that is standard Lucas practice. For example, brown is permanent unfused live that could feed a switch such as ignition switch. Brown with red trace goes from the ignition switch to the glow plugs in a pre tdi era diesel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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