Sigi_H 34 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 On 1/3/2021 at 5:54 PM, monkie said: ... as I am going to add an earth to each corner to connect to the gearbox As you want to go back to the gearbox anyway, why not straight to an earth distributor at the battery? It's only little more with less connections that can foul away 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted January 7 Author Share Posted January 7 37 minutes ago, Sigi_H said: As you want to go back to the gearbox anyway, why not straight to an earth distributor at the battery? It's only little more with less connections that can foul away Yes, good idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sgo70 11 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Those splices you showed earlier look like open barrel splices, I'm having a hard time getting them to work on my 14 and 16 gauge wires because my crimpers are too small. Works great on the smaller wires. I ordered some step down butt connectors to try on the heavier gauge wires, see how that works. Hydralink has some nice 2 into one and closed end splices but they are expensive. Sean 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sgo70 11 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Here's the Hydralink ones: https://theelectricaldepot.com/heat-shrink-connectors Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sgo70 11 Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Since mine is such a mixed up collection of parts I also bought a label machine and some clear heat shrink. I tried to match wire color but some were hard to get locally and some of my accessories weren't Defender specific. This is the right rear harness joined to a 4 gauge ground wire. Sean 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Troll Hunter 116 Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 (edited) PaulMc, quoting from your roof top lighting thread, referenced in this thread: "I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02722.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02723.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02724.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02725.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02726.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02727.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02728.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02729.jpg" How do you make these electrical connections waterproof on the side where the two wires exit the heat shrink sleeve, please? Sorry, what I thought would be a couple of photos only came up as the addresses that I copied them from, but you can at least access them. Mike Edited January 8 by Troll Hunter To add apology! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Poore 423 Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Just thought I'd add my 2p on the solder vs. crimp debate - I've been involved in some stuff that was deployed out to some pretty harsh environments. We always used to crimp and then add a dab of solder to the connections as well for those that were going to take abuse - although because it was usually involving RF the dab of solder was also to improve the electrical connection in some circumstances. We've seen all combinations fail equally, bear in mind that the guy in charge of the prototype lab once totalled up the cost of the crimp tools we had - went well into 6 figures for not a huge number... Proper crimp vs. solder doesn't really matter - just ensure you've got proper stress relief on the connectors and/or wiring loom. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonpelly 30 Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 "just ensure you've got proper stress relief on the connectors and/or wiring loom." - Echo this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 Thanks for all of the tips and tricks. A box turned up today with all the wires, tapes and econoseal connectors for the chassis harness. I plan to have all the earths from the components go to a single earth via econoseal connector (for easy isolation of a part should it fail). This single earth will then go direct to an earth bus on the negative terminal of the battery via the harness. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted Sunday at 02:06 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 02:06 PM I have sorted out the colours for the wires for a 110 of the late 1980s. Everything I have found online so far is generic lucas or land rover, this is specific to a land rover 90/110 diesel. I imagine there is a high degree of overlap with later/earlier models as well as petrol. I thought it might be helpful to share this here. As always, I'm open to any corrections/comments. A solid colour is from a supply to a switch and a striped colour is switch to component. I have used the standard lucas colour code: G=green, LG = light green, R=red, U=blue, W=white, O=orange, P=purple, N =brown, B=black, Y=yellow, S=slate(grey), K=pink. G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P unfused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted Sunday at 02:19 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 02:19 PM I have also mapped out the two connectors to the dash warning lamps... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted Sunday at 03:55 PM Share Posted Sunday at 03:55 PM 90/110 wiring colour codes haven't changed since 1983, later models do have additional colour codes for thinge like ABS/TC/central locking,/electric windows, but all comply with the UK standard automotive colour codings from Lucas. all the codes are on the 110 wiring diagrams in workshop manual Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FridgeFreezer 2,029 Posted Sunday at 04:19 PM Share Posted Sunday at 04:19 PM @western that post must be a candidate for the technical archive surely? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted Sunday at 05:04 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 05:04 PM That's true Ralph, as there are also Lucas colour codes on the Internet. The problem I have had is when I have a random wire, say black with pink trace for example, it comes up on the generic charts as something irrelevant to my 110 or takes me 10 minutes trawling through the circuit diagrams to find it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted Sunday at 05:09 PM Share Posted Sunday at 05:09 PM These might help 300Tdi ---- http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/electrical schemes - defender 300 tdi.pdf Td5 ---- http://www.legionlandrover.com/manuales/electrical schemes - defender 2002 uk.pdf 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted Sunday at 05:10 PM Share Posted Sunday at 05:10 PM 51 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: @western that post must be a candidate for the technical archive surely? When Monkie has completed his loom builds I will add it into the electrical section. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted Sunday at 05:53 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 05:53 PM 39 minutes ago, western said: When Monkie has completed his loom builds I will add it into the electrical section. ooh err, that's a bit of pressure. I'm having a fire extinguisher handy for when I connect the battery up just in case. Anyone know where I can get a load of scotch locks? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monkie 308 Posted Sunday at 06:11 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 06:11 PM *Correction to my earlier post. Purple is fused permanent live (not unfused as I had put earlier). I also had missed off brown with red trace for the glowplug feed from ignition switch: G fused ignition on GR left turn signal GW right turn signal GP brake lights GN reverse light GB fuel sender GY heater blower motor switch GS heater blower motor switch LGG oil temperature LGW oil pressure sender LGB screen wash pump LGP trailer warning light LGN hazard switch to flash relay R running lights RO right side/tail RB left side/tail RY rear fog RLG wiper motor RW 12v socket illumination U head lights UO right main US left main UK left dip UB right dip UG wiper motor W unfused live ignition on WR ignition switch to starter relay WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio WB rear window heater WS fuel sender to guage WN oil pressure warning lamp WY hand brake warning light WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light P fused permanent live PG fuse to heater blower motor PO seat belt warning light (where fitted) PW interior cab light PU door switch (where fitted) N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid NR ignition switch to glowplug relay NLG wiper motor NY charge warning light NLG flasher relay NW fuse to heated rear window relay B earth BU diff lock engaged warning light BW brake warning light BR hazard switch illumination BK heated rear window relay to diode BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch YB Glowplug Feed from relay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
western 868 Posted Sunday at 06:23 PM Share Posted Sunday at 06:23 PM 27 minutes ago, monkie said: ooh err, that's a bit of pressure. I'm having a fire extinguisher handy for when I connect the battery up just in case. Anyone know where I can get a load of scotch locks? No pressure from here, just say when its all finished Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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