Jump to content

Making my own main loom/harness


Recommended Posts

On 1/3/2021 at 5:54 PM, monkie said:

... as I am going to add an earth to each corner to connect to the gearbox

As you want to go back to the gearbox anyway, why not straight to an earth distributor at the battery? It's only little more with less connections that can foul away

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, Sigi_H said:

As you want to go back to the gearbox anyway, why not straight to an earth distributor at the battery? It's only little more with less connections that can foul away

Yes, good idea. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those splices you showed earlier look like open barrel splices, I'm having a hard time getting them to work on my 14 and 16 gauge wires because my crimpers are too small. Works great on the smaller wires. I ordered some step down butt connectors to try on the heavier gauge wires, see how that works. Hydralink has some nice 2 into one and closed end splices but they are expensive.

 

Sean

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Since mine is such a mixed up collection of parts I also bought a label machine and some clear heat shrink. I tried to match wire color but some were hard to get locally and some of my accessories weren't Defender specific. This is the right rear harness joined to a 4 gauge ground wire.

 

Sean

IMG_3721.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

PaulMc, quoting from your roof top lighting thread, referenced in this thread:

"I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates -

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02722.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02723.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02724.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02725.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02726.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02727.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02728.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02729.jpg"

How do you make these electrical connections waterproof on the side where the two wires exit the heat shrink sleeve, please?

Sorry, what I thought would be a couple of photos only came up as the addresses that I copied them from, but you can at least access them.

Mike

Edited by Troll Hunter
To add apology!
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just thought I'd add my 2p on the solder vs. crimp debate - I've been involved in some stuff that was deployed out to some pretty harsh environments. We always used to crimp and then add a dab of solder to the connections as well for those that were going to take abuse - although because it was usually involving RF the dab of solder was also to improve the electrical connection in some circumstances. We've seen all combinations fail equally, bear in mind that the guy in charge of the prototype lab once totalled up the cost of the crimp tools we had - went well into 6 figures for not a huge number...

Proper crimp vs. solder doesn't really matter - just ensure you've got proper stress relief on the connectors and/or wiring loom.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all of the tips and tricks. A box turned up today with all the wires, tapes and econoseal connectors for the chassis harness. I plan to have all the earths from the components go to a single earth via econoseal connector (for easy isolation of a part should it fail). This single earth will then go direct to an earth bus on the negative terminal of the battery via the harness. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have sorted out the colours for the wires for a 110 of the late 1980s. Everything I have found online so far is generic lucas or land rover, this is specific to a land rover 90/110 diesel. I imagine there is a high degree of overlap with later/earlier models as well as petrol. I thought it might be helpful to share this here. As always, I'm open to any corrections/comments.

A solid colour is from a supply to a switch and a striped colour is switch to component. I have used the standard lucas colour code:

G=green, LG = light green, R=red, U=blue, W=white, O=orange, P=purple, N =brown, B=black, Y=yellow, S=slate(grey), K=pink.

G fused ignition on
GR left turn signal
GW right turn signal
GP brake lights
GN reverse light
GB fuel sender
GY heater blower motor switch
GS heater blower motor switch
LGG oil temperature
LGW oil pressure sender
LGB screen wash pump
LGP trailer warning light
LGN hazard switch to flash relay
   
R running lights
RO right side/tail
RB left side/tail
RY rear fog
RLG wiper motor
RW 12v socket illumination
   
U head lights
UO right main
US left main
UK left dip
UB right dip
UG wiper motor
   
W unfused live ignition on
WR ignition switch to starter relay
WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio
WB rear window heater
WS fuel sender to guage 
WN oil pressure warning lamp
WY hand brake warning light
WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light
   
P unfused permanent live
PG fuse to heater blower motor 
PO seat belt warning light (where fitted)
PW interior cab light
PU door switch (where fitted)
   
N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid
NLG wiper motor
NY charge warning light
NLG flasher relay
NW fuse to heated rear window relay
   
B earth
BU diff lock engaged warning light
BW brake warning light
BR hazard switch illumination
BK heated rear window relay to diode
BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch
   
YB Glowplug Feed
  • Thanks 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

90/110 wiring colour codes haven't changed since 1983, later models do have additional colour codes for thinge like ABS/TC/central locking,/electric windows, but all comply with the UK standard automotive colour codings from Lucas. all the codes are on the 110 wiring diagrams in workshop manual

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's true Ralph, as there are also Lucas colour codes on the Internet. The problem I have had is when I have a random wire, say black with pink trace for example, it comes up on the generic charts as something irrelevant to my 110 or takes me 10 minutes trawling through the circuit diagrams to find it. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, western said:

When Monkie has completed his loom builds I will add it into the electrical section.

ooh err, that's a bit of pressure. I'm having a fire extinguisher handy for when I connect the battery up just in case. Anyone know where I can get a load of scotch locks?;)

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

*Correction to my earlier post. Purple is fused permanent live (not unfused as I had put earlier). I also had missed off brown with red trace for the glowplug feed from ignition switch:

G fused ignition on
GR left turn signal
GW right turn signal
GP brake lights
GN reverse light
GB fuel sender
GY heater blower motor switch
GS heater blower motor switch
LGG oil temperature
LGW oil pressure sender
LGB screen wash pump
LGP trailer warning light
LGN hazard switch to flash relay
   
R running lights
RO right side/tail
RB left side/tail
RY rear fog
RLG wiper motor
RW 12v socket illumination
   
U head lights
UO right main
US left main
UK left dip
UB right dip
UG wiper motor
   
W unfused live ignition on
WR ignition switch to starter relay
WO ignition switch to heater blower fuse and radio
WB rear window heater
WS fuel sender to guage 
WN oil pressure warning lamp
WY hand brake warning light
WG Heated rear window switch to relay/dash light
   
P fused permanent live
PG fuse to heater blower motor 
PO seat belt warning light (where fitted)
PW interior cab light
PU door switch (where fitted)
   
N permanent live from positive terminal bus on starter solenoid
NR ignition switch to glowplug relay
NLG wiper motor
NY charge warning light
NLG flasher relay
NW fuse to heated rear window relay
   
B earth
BU diff lock engaged warning light
BW brake warning light
BR hazard switch illumination
BK heated rear window relay to diode
BS heated rear window diode to voltage sensitive switch
   
YB Glowplug Feed from relay
Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, monkie said:

ooh err, that's a bit of pressure. I'm having a fire extinguisher handy for when I connect the battery up just in case. Anyone know where I can get a load of scotch locks?;)

No pressure from here, just say when its all finished

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy