western Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 On top of your costings just add up the manhours it take to complete the loom build then say give your selve a conservative estimate of pounds per hour, it will soon rack up the numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 Absolutely right, but as with all our DIY jobs on our land rovers it's a hobby so I'm not factoring in my time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 19, 2021 Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 minute ago, monkie said: but as with all our DIY jobs on our land rovers it's a hobby so I'm not factoring in my time. Absolutely,other wise the figures would be frightening regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 9 hours ago, western said: On top of your costings just add up the manhours it take to complete the loom build then say give your selve a conservative estimate of pounds per hour, it will soon rack up the numbers. True enough - but for some jobs you almost can't pay someone to do it how you'd like it done. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: True enough - but for some jobs you almost can't pay someone to do it how you'd like it done. This. Just look at the number of 'professionally' built stuff that has really poor workmanship Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Sadly that seems to be true for most things. I’m faced with the choice of ‘pay and have it quicker but not quite how I’d like it’ - rather than ‘pay for a professional job’ too many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 4 minutes ago, Anderzander said: Sadly that seems to be true for most things. I’m faced with the choice of ‘pay and have it quicker but not quite how I’d like it’ - rather than ‘pay for a professional job’ too many times. Indeed. Similarly why I prefer to do all jobs myself on the house, etc... On the plus side, it's a good excuse to learn new things and acquire bundles of more tools. Never too many tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 36 minutes ago, simonpelly said: Similarly why I prefer to do all jobs myself on the house Want to do some rendering? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonpelly Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, Ed Poore said: Want to do some rendering? Funnily enough, I took the render off my house, painted the new render, but get someone in to do the messy bit. In the words of Clint Eastwood "A man's got to know his limitations...." Edited January 20, 2021 by simonpelly Grammar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 Autosparks are out of stock of the hazard warning switch plug and the switch socket for the interior light and heated rear window switches (as in my pictures). I can't find anyone else who supplies them in the UK such as auto wiring products and AES. Does anyone else know of a stockist please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 3waycomponents have the Lucas 5-way switch connectors - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Rists-5-Way-3mm-Moulding-Wiring-Connector-Kit-To-Fit-Lucas-183SA-Switch/133252214758 I've got the hazard switch connectors - £9.95 + £1.55 for UK 1st class P&P. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 Fantastic, thank you @PaulMc. I'll place an order. For the connection from main loom to engine harness I am using superseal and econoseal connectors - however for the live feed from the alternator these are not appropriate for the size wire or current. I have got some power connectors, are these suffcient or do you have any recomendations for a better connector for this application in terms of current and weather resistance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post landy_andy Posted January 22, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted January 22, 2021 Here are a few pictures of how I put my new loom together for my D100 project, twist ties from the supermarket work great for making up the looms. As I couldn’t get GXL & TXL in colour traced short lengths, I used solid colours with a heat shrink band on each end to follow the original loom specs. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 3 hours ago, landy_andy said: Here are a few pictures of how I put my new loom together for my D100 project, twist ties from the supermarket work great for making up the looms. As I couldn’t get GXL & TXL in colour traced short lengths, I used solid colours with a heat shrink band on each end to follow the original loom specs. That is a real nice piece of work, it looks really neat and 100 times better than my old loom. I really like your idea of using a piece of board to lay it out on. I will certainly pinch that idea. Thanks for sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy_andy Posted January 23, 2021 Share Posted January 23, 2021 19 hours ago, monkie said: That is a real nice piece of work, it looks really neat and 100 times better than my old loom. I really like your idea of using a piece of board to lay it out on. I will certainly pinch that idea. Thanks for sharing Thanks.... pity it’s all hidden behind my dash 🙄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 23, 2021 Author Share Posted January 23, 2021 I've come to learn that if you are aware of electrics then it's probably because you have a problem! So if yours are all tucked away behind the dash and you are not giving a second thought to it, you've done a good job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/7/2021 at 10:36 PM, Troll Hunter said: PaulMc, quoting from your roof top lighting thread, referenced in this thread: "I use a continuous length of the larger gauge cable, with the conductor exposed and the smaller gauge 'spur' to each lamp crimped onto it it, using a splice crimp, which is then over-sleeved with adhesive-lined heatshrink, as this picture sequence illustrates - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02722.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02723.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02724.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02725.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02726.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02727.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02728.jpg . http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v686/paulmc0308/Electrical/Misc/th_DSC02729.jpg" How do you make these electrical connections waterproof on the side where the two wires exit the heat shrink sleeve, please? Sorry, what I thought would be a couple of photos only came up as the addresses that I copied them from, but you can at least access them. Mike Is anybody able to answer my question above, please? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 There are heat shrinks, which are hot glue coated on the inside. When they are shrinked, the hot glue comes even out. This should be waterproof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Adhesive lined heat shrink, RS have tonnes of it: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/cables-wires/cable-accessories-ties-tools/heat-shrink-cold-shrink-sleeves/?applied-dimensions=4294876216 I bought two bags of pre-cut lengths (approx 4:1mm and 12:3mm) similar to RS# 366-2825 / TE# DSPL-NR1-0-50MM and they covered 95% of what I needed when I built my loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Thanks for the info, guys. I've never used self adhesive tubing, but if I understand correctly, although the individual heat shrink sections can each only extend to the crimped joint, the glue which squeezes out when the tubing is heated forms a waterproof seal around the three wires. If I've got it wrong, please put me right. Thanks. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 Yes, the glue (in my experience) is quite thick and oozes round it all - if you're making a Y with three wires you can even squeeze between the two with a pair of needle-nose pliers as the tube cools to sort of mould it in place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 15 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: Yes, the glue (in my experience) is quite thick and oozes round it all - if you're making a Y with three wires you can even squeeze between the two with a pair of needle-nose pliers as the tube cools to sort of mould it in place. That is a really good tip, I've been wondering about that myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 2 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: Thanks for the info, guys. I've never used self adhesive tubing, but if I understand correctly, although the individual heat shrink sections can each only extend to the crimped joint, the glue which squeezes out when the tubing is heated forms a waterproof seal around the three wires. If I've got it wrong, please put me right. Thanks. Mike This is the way I'd do it. Red/Green for the different wires and then a single piece of heatshrink over it. Then as Fridge says, give the hot (watch your fingers) heatshrink on the side with the two cables a squeeze to get the glue down between the two cables. Highly technical drawing: Ross - Aged 30 and 1/4 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 My experience. I haven't (yet) splashed out on glue lined heat shrink sleeving, but I have a reasonable quantity of ordinary heat shrink. When I've wanted 'glue lined' I've first of all put glue from a hot-glue gun over the area. I don't stress about doing a perfect cover, it's enough to have some around the area I want it. After it's cooled, (a few seconds) I slide the ordinary heat shrink over the joint. As the glue is cooled the heat shrink doesn't react. I then use a hot air gun to heat the shrink. By default the glue also warms and softens, and the shrink applies pressure to the glue, squeezing it into close contact (the 'perfect cover' I didn't bother about in the first place). I have found that the warm heat shrink, and the underlying glue, can be worked between the fingers to create a smooth neat outline. It should go without saying that the hot air gun is pointed away from the joint while I have my fingers around the sleeving. On all the jobs I've done so far there has been enough residual heat in the wires, wire insulation, glue, and shrink sleeving, to enable the work to be completed to my satisfaction. If there wasn't enough heat it only takes a reapplication of the hot air gun to impart more heat to the joint, and the finger manipulation to resume. I haven't found the need to use gloves or pliers while handling the joint, nor have I burnt my fingers. There is obviously some minor skill and personal judgement involved, placing enough glue, and not heating the wiring so much that the insulation is burnt, but it's really very simple to gain the neccessary experience. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted January 25, 2021 Author Share Posted January 25, 2021 Excitement indeed. My wires and general goods have arrived from Autosparks. Hardly looks enough for the whole loom... We shall see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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