Mo Murphy Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 It's all soooooo clean 👍 Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 hour ago, Mo Murphy said: It's all soooooo clean 👍 Mo I’m not happy about the surface rust on those threads so they’ll need to be dealt with 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 On 1/7/2021 at 10:51 PM, Mo Murphy said: It's all soooooo clean 👍 Mo That's what I was thinking. I'm not sure mine was that clean when it left the factory... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Hi Everyone, Pictures as promised, apologies if this is a bit wordy, just wanted to help anyone else planning on doing one in the future. This is for an LT77 gearbox. From my experience I would recommend measuring your seatbox top and cut a bit of ply to the same size and lay it across two work mates (I screwed mine to a block of wood which was used to hold it all in place). This will allow you to lay the WOR seatbox matting on the ply in the exact orientation you want for cutting and measuring. NOTE: I frequently took the matting off, cut and refitted and double checked through out the entire fitting process. Its bulky and awkward to handle but you get a feel for lifting it in and out without straining any cut areas (it can tear apparently). Take your time and measure what you have on your own LR as they definitely vary, I used cardboard templates and double checked measurements all the way through the work (I took a few weekends to fit mine). I started with the tunnel cut first, made a template and cut that part out so that I could lay the rubber on the seatbox and work out what I needed to do and make measurements from there. One thing I did notice was that I also had to cut a section out for the bit of raised box section that is just behind the tunnel (I think the R380 matting mouldings have a raised area for this), this essentially left me with a 10mm strip of rubber which I decided to keep. Note that I would eventually cut out the centre lid section and this effectively leaves you with this single piece of rubber keeping both sides connected (check the pictures). You could probably get rid of this but I kept it for tidiness. As mentioned above, for my fitment I wanted to be able to access all three lids on the seatbox in the future. This is more work of course than just planting your seats on it and I decided to make two new lids for the battery box and fuel tank. I made them smaller than the originals so that the lids and matting sit tidily under the seat squabs. I made them from some spare galv plated steel sheet and fitted them with locating “lugs” at the rear and side underneath so that they locate at the back and also sit square. I also lined the underneath of the lids with some foam so that they fit snugly in the seat box apertures and fitted some easy lift loops (now patented) 🙂. They recommend stacking washers below your seat rails so that you don’t distort the rubber, I used stainless steel repair washers from screwfix/workstation (about 100 for £6 IIRK !!) and stacked and glued them together in little stacks (6 at the rear and 5 at the front) for a nice flush fitting. For those that want to cut the holes cleanly for the washers I took a hole saw (cant remember the size), a 25mm bit of pipe cut square on two ends, chamfered an edge on the pipe and taped it inside the hole saw. I then drilled a pilot hole for the bolt holes and using some 3 in 1 oil as lubricant drilled a nice round hole with my (also now patented) “WOR universal hole cutter” 😁, I then refitted the matting on the seatbox and used a dremel for fine fettling. Take note that you can get a really nice clean edge if you use oil during the cutting of the matting and make sure you keep changing your Stanley blades regularly. One of the things I found trickiest was marking the correct layout for cuts for the lids so that the rubber matting overlapped the lids, to do this I fitted the seat rails first. For this I marked and cut the rear bolt holes for the rear seat rails (fairly easy), fitted the seat rails roughly in place using the bolts in the rear holes and once in place drilled the holes for the front rails ensuring I could get all the bolts through the original holes. This hence confirmed that the seat rails were square when in place. Once this was done I then cut the 25mm holes for the washers and dry fitted the seats again on top of the matting. This then gave me confidence that everything was lined up. I then marked out where the lids were on the rubber and ensured I allowed enough overlap for me to cut whilst also ensuring I kept comfortably within the seat rails. The last tricky bit was fitting the centre seat, I used the same process as the driver and passenger seats and had to faff around cutting out for the fronts of the seat rail (they have u channel for the front fixings). Once that was done I cut the rubber closely in line with the inside of the rails. One thing I did find was that the rear part of the matting at the rear bulkhead /seat belt area was wider than the actual seat box, when I had cut the lids out for the driver and passenger seats and shut the doors the rubber actually came in board on the passenger side about ¼ to ½ inch once the doors were closed!!! This essentially just meant trimming some additional rubber off within the passenger seat rail lid area to allow the lid to fit. Just one to watch out for. Fitting the other pieces (floor matting and bulkhead / fuse box) are really straightforward and would suggest starting with the seat box first. As for noise reduction, I’ve only just fitted it and will let you know this week but from an aesthetic perspective I am really pleased. HTH someone in the future. All the best. G🙂 PS: I really need to refurb those seat frames and seats this year..... Edited January 31, 2021 by gruntus 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 That looks great, nice job on the cutting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 That’s a very neat installation. Now you need to paint those seat frames to match the cleanliness of the rest of the cab!😆 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 That's a really good, neat job, Grant ! 👍 My seat box cover has a cut out for the tunnel, I take it this isn't the same size as the tunnel then ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 I think the seat base section is delivered with the Series tunnel shape as that’s the smallest, with trace lines on the underside for the other options, so they can cut cost on only producing one mat for all types. Certainly, mine was like that, also with markings for all the hand brake permutations. I can’t remember if the bulkhead centre panel was universal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 36 minutes ago, Snagger said: I think the seat base section is delivered with the Series tunnel shape as that’s the smallest, with trace lines on the underside for the other options, so they can cut cost on only producing one mat for all types. Certainly, mine was like that, also with markings for all the hand brake permutations. I can’t remember if the bulkhead centre panel was universal. Exactly as Snagger said, it comes complete with references underneath. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Oh, i meant to add that I took it out for a spin yesterday and although the diesel clatter noise is still obvious (I also fitted a lead sandwich on the bulkhead during its rebuild) the gearbox and transfer box whines are gone. I only had old door mat carpets fittet since the rebuild and would say it has certainly had a positive effect. I do wonder if the flaps would benefit from some noise killer on the inside or also the bulkhead end of the bonnet...... As hybridfromhell mentioned previously I'm probably 3.5 tonne in weight now! 🤣 Anyway, that's the WOR fitted, some HFH bonnet struts fitted before Xmas (what a difference they make being able to work in the engine bay without fear of decapitation!) Next job is treating my "high maintenance dirty mistress" to a replacement raptor dash console. 😁. Happy days! All the best G 👍🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 I asked Drew, and the full set of Wright Offroad stuff is 32Kg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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