marieholm Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Dear members, I’m in the process of replacing the seals behind the drive flange on both front and rear diff. The front is going according to plan but when I took out the rear diff seal it looked different then what I was expecting . I thought It would be the same as the front one but it has a different size nut (32mm) and the seal looks different to. For the front I used seal FRC4586G and I thought the rear would be the same. Below a picture of what I took out the rear diff. Is this a salsbury axle and should I then use the one Below? https://allmakes4x4.com/flange_kit_rear_axle_diff_pinion_salisbury_axle_110_130_stc4457.html Many thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 What is the LR and a pic of the diffs might belp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 It is a 1985 110 SW I’m Afraid I don’t have a descent picture of the diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 It’s different because it is a Salisbury axle on the back end of a 110 of that age. I hope you counted how many turns the nut turned before it came off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) No did not count the turns... what to do? btw, it was veruit tight. Edited January 10, 2021 by marieholm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Yes, that is one type of seal used for Salisbury diffs. Don’t worry about not marking the pinion nut before removal - just do it back up to 150ftlbs and it’ll take up all the play without crushing the preload crush tube any further. It’s not the correct method, but is a practical work-around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 Thanks Snagger, I just read another post of you stating the same. Great to have a forum with so much info (just need to find it before dismanteling) I'm also going to replace the flange on the front diff. Am I correct that this should be the correct one: https://www.lrdirect.com/236632-Drive-Flange-Rover-Axle/ thanks again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Nigel is a diff specialist, so he has the information on what type of flange you need, but there are several different types. That one has four thick splines inside for Series vehicles, and I have a suspicion your 110 will need a type with more splines. I don’t know how many variations there are. The good news is that when you do the front diff, the preload on the bearings is set by shims between the bearings, so you can’t over tighten the nut when you do it up again. Nige can give you the correct torque, but I imagine it’s around 100ftlbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Re the Salisbury, there are (as always) an early and late type. The Late type (post'98?) is available as a kit STC4403 which includes the flange, nut and seal. The early type is a leather seal originally (AEU2515)?, but I think AAU3381 is an alternative in rubber or I believe Dana 60 seals may fit. You can't mix bits between early and late type sets. I had a similar problem and fitted the late type kit (you can't use the number of turns method on the nut to retighten) and used the Snagger 150lb ft tightening technique, and it has been absolutely fine ((but you will need to devise a method to hold the diff flange still). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 When Snagger says Nige is a diff specialist he means @Hybrid_From_Hell and yes he can talk for hours about LR diffs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 16 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: When Snagger says Nige is a diff specialist he means @Hybrid_From_Hell and yes he can talk for hours about LR diffs... Especially while he’s in the A&E queue...😉 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 thanks for all the help. I ordered all the parts andd hope to have everything fixed this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 Working on the LR today and the front diff went without problems but the rear is not. If i tighten the pinion nut the axle.blocks and i can’t move the car. it looks like the mud shield hits the diff. the old flange did not have the shield. Do i have the wrong part or am I doing something wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Knock the mudshield off and refit it with the other side to the diff, you should then be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Agreed mudshield needs flipping over so the curved outer is facing the prop flange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) But can you then still fit the bolts? Here it is not yet fully on Edited January 16, 2021 by marieholm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 fit the prop bolts first so the bolt heads face rearwards to diff,then fit the shield & flange/shield to diff pinion shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Thanks western. Will try That. weird that is shown on all pictures the other way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 I removed the mud shield from my Salisbury axle on my 110 & have the bolt heads facing forward, been like these for years with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 My 109 never had one, and nor did the 110 axle I fit to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 No mudshield shown or listed in the 110 parts book. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Thanks for the advice! Fitted it without the mud shield and all seems to be well. Now just replace the drop arm of the steering box and I can finally start using it again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landrovernuts Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Not that it matters now as you have left the mud shield off, but this is how my one looks like and think you were right the first time. Something else must be wrong if it was binding. Toby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marieholm Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 Thanks al, i fitter it without the shield. Hope it Will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 i ran into the same issue, mine was solidy attached/friction welded on?, so i just cut the outer off it in the lathe till it cleared the diff nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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