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SECURITY - pedal lock/ transferbox lock


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Security being the topic of choice being a defender owner in these times haha!

Anyway, ive just completed a galvy chassis swap on the 110 and am now looking to beef up the security

XENG do the pedal locks etc. but i know how easy they are to tow away

I remember doing some research a year or so ago and there was a device that stopped the propshaft moving through a lock in the cab, iirc it was transferbox mounted?

im hoping someone can remember as google isnt working for me! 😅

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Edited by WRLondon
more interesting with photos
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REALLY interested thieves will lift her on a trailer and thats it. To make it harder for casual thieves this is enough

I got one with a 30A fuse passing by the main switch. So everything will stay electrically connected even when I take the green screw with me. If someone tries to start the fuse will blow.

All the shown protections will do the job, but will not protect too if someone wants to have the doors or the hood.

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Locking gear and transfer box levers together doesn't provide protection against disconnecting both drive shafts and towing the prize away.  Even easier with a front wheel dolly.

Mike

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On 1/27/2021 at 5:35 PM, western said:

Can't find any more internet info for that Rat Trap, the website doesn't work either, maybe they couldn't get enough interest to continue with the project.

Think they ceased production due to no sales as the cost was stupid. 

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4 minutes ago, Tim2809 said:

X eng do the gearstick lock. 
also the pedal lock will also hold the brakes on if servo is pumped out. 

OK, that would be a bummer if you're trying to tow it!

Mike

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I wouldn't do anything holding the brakes. I transported motorcycles with a cable tie around the front brake lever and throttle grip and it got leaky to often on the main cylinder. On a motorcycle the problem is not too big, because you can recognize it. On the car you can't.

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15 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:

Locking gear and transfer box levers together doesn't provide protection against disconnecting both drive shafts and towing the prize away.  Even easier with a front wheel dolly.

Mike

Thing is Mike, if they want it badly enough they'll take it regardless of security device. You can lift a defender onto a flat bed with a hiab pretty quickly if you are practiced. Hi vis security devices are going to deter the casual thief and further layers will slow down and dissuade the more determined.

But theres a way round every security device eventually ...

 

Mo

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Unfortunately very true.  The advantages of owning a Defender in Canada is that there are so few of them that a new/old one on the block would soon be noticed.  Also, there's virtually no high demand for bling body panels, so little incentive for thieving pikeys.

Mike

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That’s why you have trackers and insurance but most thefts aren’t with a crane so you are looking to put off the causal / semi hardened thief that wants something they can get with a screw driver.

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I have the x eng pedal lock and didn't realise that when locked it put pressure on the brake pedal, until I was working on it and tried to spin the wheel, I though the brakes had seized on. But am very happy that it does as it means it will be harder to tow away even if they did remove the propshaft. The only way they can do it is really drag it or lift it. 

Battery cut off helps as you can lock the battery box. 

The gear stick locks I think only has some benefit in that it would inhibit someone driving it away, but if you have a pedal lock you have already immbolised the pedals. If just using the gearstick lock they could remove props and tow it quite easily. 

Optimill steering wheel and lock look good as will make it difficult to steer. 

 

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On 1/30/2021 at 4:58 AM, Jon W said:

I have the x eng pedal lock and didn't realise that when locked it put pressure on the brake pedal, until I was working on it and tried to spin the wheel, I though the brakes had seized on. But am very happy that it does as it means it will be harder to tow away even if they did remove the propshaft. The only way they can do it is really drag it or lift it. 

Easy-peasy, just open a brake bleed nipple.  End of braked wheels and very towable.

Mike

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As I may have said before, what you need is layers of security.

I once had a chat with someone who said most theives will be deterred by something which takes longer than 2 minutes to remove / bypass.  However, if it takes 4 minutes, it barely provides any more deterrant value - if they have invested 2 mins, they will probably keep working on it for 4.

However, two devices which take up to 2 mins, does provide more than one 4 min device.

The conclusion is to have a number of relatively simple precautions, then make a judgement about how 'safe' the area is and fit the number appropriate to the area.

So, even products where you think you could remove / bypass it quickly - are worth something if inexpensive and used in combination with other devices.

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I would claim to be a disciple of Simonr, as I have the X-Eng pedal box and the steeringlock reinforcement. My truck has been attacked twice and the miscreants gave up each time, (the second with the Police on their trail, without success). 

Ultimately, if someone really wanted your truck, a hiab in a public space or a knife pointed at your chest will do it. It's an inanimate object and insured, so "Let it Go!"

Having said that, you need to make it less easy than the next opportunity. Mine has the pedal box, steering lock reinforcement, a hidden switch for the stop solonoid, a master electrical switch with removable key, registration numbers on all the windows, a hidden remote tracking unit, distinctive paintwork and stickers. If someone steals it, it's gone, but they are taking one hell of a risk, as most police in a 20 mile radius know me and the vehicle by sight. (4x4 Response volunteer and Police Community Volunteer).

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18 hours ago, simonr said:

As I may have said before, what you need is layers of security.

I once had a chat with someone who said most theives will be deterred by something which takes longer than 2 minutes to remove / bypass.  However, if it takes 4 minutes, it barely provides any more deterrant value - if they have invested 2 mins, they will probably keep working on it for 4.

However, two devices which take up to 2 mins, does provide more than one 4 min device.

The conclusion is to have a number of relatively simple precautions, then make a judgement about how 'safe' the area is and fit the number appropriate to the area.

So, even products where you think you could remove / bypass it quickly - are worth something if inexpensive and used in combination with other devices.

That sounds extremely sensible, and the more devices you use, the more chance of them not having the tools or knowledge to get past everything.  
 

I intend to fit the X-Eng bits - both the steering lock protector and the pedal cover.  What prevents the pedal cover being used on a Series vehicle, Simon?  I realise the gear box tunnel is different and the Series High/Low lever may be in the way, but wouldn’t cutting the end down to fit sort that?  Is there any other reason it can’t be used on older vehicles?

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What prevents the pedal cover being used on a Series vehicle, Simon?

No reason at all.  The only reason I didn't make one was not having a Series to play with!  Foundry4x4 were talking about a Series version, and a Left Hand Drive version - but I don't know if they came to anything.

Series & Defender bulkheads are so similar, I doubt it would take much adapting to fit - at a guess!

I wouldn't limit yourself to just one brand though - I've seen some really great products from other companies over the last few years, with one or two "I wish I'd thought of that" moments!

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I have the pedal lock and column protector. Only problem with the pedal lock is that it seems to want to gouge the floor at either edge where it hinges. I wish there was a fix for that, it's almost like it needs a filler strip under it to raise just a few mm.

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18 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:

I have the pedal lock and column protector. Only problem with the pedal lock is that it seems to want to gouge the floor at either edge where it hinges. I wish there was a fix for that, it's almost like it needs a filler strip under it to raise just a few mm.

That is precisely what I did and it sits much better.

The other thing I did is add a spacer block so that when the plate is folded flat it is slightly raised (you can probably make out the gap on the second photo), makes all the difference as the folded edge doesn't touch the floor and the hinged top (the section containing the lock) sits flat against the seatbox whereas before it tilted forwards slightly.

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