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LT230 rebuild


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Ok, so I've just started the rebuild. I will try to post pics & progress as it goes.

But, starting with a question -

When i split the LT230 off of the gearbox, I found that there was no nut on the output shaft.

Is this normal? Is there any reason why it may have been left off?

(Judging by the amount of hard-packed goo in the hole its not been open since the factory)

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Ok, so I've just started the rebuild. I will try to post pics & progress as it goes.

But, starting with a question -

When i split the LT230 off of the gearbox, I found that there was no nut on the output shaft.

Is this normal? Is there any reason why it may have been left off?

(Judging by the amount of hard-packed goo in the hole its not been open since the factory)

never seen a nut there. the bearing carriers hold the gear in the correct place. at a guess the threaded section might be to screw on an extension for a PTO?

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Ok, so I've just started the rebuild. I will try to post pics & progress as it goes.

But, starting with a question -

When i split the LT230 off of the gearbox, I found that there was no nut on the output shaft.

Is this normal? Is there any reason why it may have been left off?

(Judging by the amount of hard-packed goo in the hole its not been open since the factory)

thethread is just there for assembly purposes when building the box,

no nut should be fitted,

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HELP.

(Dave Ashcoft - are you out there?)

So, to set the diff bearing preload, the overhaul manual (hereafter known as the landrover Service Tool Sales catalogue :huh: ) calls for the use of a dial gauge & reference block (LRT-41-014/3, LRT-41-014/4) BUT really usefully it doesn't tell me the dimension of the reference block!!!

similarly, on the other side a depth block is needed (LRT-41-014/1) also no dimension.

Can anyone tell me these reference dimensions, or an alternative method of selecting the correct output shaft bearing shim?

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, the box is back on... but i have 1 small problem, a noise.

On decel even when travelling quite slowly, i get a notchy gear noise in time with the wheel speed.

It doesnt happen in cruise or when accel, and it stops just as i drop to about 5mph.

It doesnt happen in reverve.

It does still happen when diff is locked.

(i've not tried it in low range yet)

I'm assuming its the transfer box, perhaps got one of the preloads wrong?

Dont think its propshafts as they were ok before & felt ok by hand when removed.

Any ideas before i pull the box apart again?

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could be the bolts that hold the transfer box to the gearbox. the bottom two (fitted from the front if i remember right) should be the shortest ones. if they are too long they hit the gears, go click click click & smash teeth off.

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could be the bolts that hold the transfer box to the gearbox. the bottom two (fitted from the front if i remember right) should be the shortest ones. if they are too long they hit the gears, go click click click & smash teeth off.

Interesting. I'll check that, but i dont think its that since why only on overrun.

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Ok, so i think i've found the problem.

Upon investigation it seems the diff is permanently locked. Open the acutator cover & found the selector is not moving with the shaft. Guess i forgot to do the grub screw up :unsure:

So T--box will have to come off again.

The noise will have been the selector ring rattling against the dog teeth i guess.

but the worst part is i have driven 50km on road with the diff locked.

I am hoping that as nothing went bang that there should be no damage, but any opinions on wether i've knackered owt are welcome....

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but the worst part is i have driven 50km on road with the diff locked.

I am hoping that as nothing went bang that there should be no damage, but any opinions on wether i've knackered owt are welcome....

I very much doubt you've broken anything, your tyres will have 'scrubbed' a little going around corners, which would have relieved any wind up in the transmission...

if anything had broken i reckon you'd have known about it...

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No it wasnt that, the diff was unlocked ok.

So, not knowing what the noise was i have removed & stripped the box again.

I did find that the big 'nut' that preloads the diff had shifted a bit despite being staked & supplied having threadlock inside.

I re tightened & add better loctite.

I also perhaps have doubts about the output shaft preload, so i added a bit by leaving out the gasket. reassembled & at all feels a bit tighter & bettter.

Will couple the props on tommorow & see how it goes....

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